To settle the H22 Vs B Series Weight Arguement I bring you this... (pics)

[civicH22TypeS]

Originally Posted by marshun you obviously didnt read the first post. why? because you said this stupid shit no, it's simple.. fine then you tell me everything what have h, b, d series?? for stock .. not tune... He want H22 or b series... it's up to him... he choose what he like it....

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[mcvtec]

Originally Posted by civicH22TypeS

no, it's simple.. fine then you tell me everything what have h, b, d series?? for stock .. not tune...

He want H22 or b series... it's up to him... he choose what he like it....

iNo comprende!

I don't know what you are yammering about in your last few posts but for the last time the whole point of this thread is that the H22 doesn't weight that much more than a B-series.

[civicH22TypeS]

Originally Posted by mcvtec

iNo comprende!

I don't know what you are yammering about in your last few posts but for the last time the whole point of this thread is that the H22 doesn't weight that much more than a B-series.

okay...you got said that... i not say everything.....

[Probot]

Originally Posted by civicH22TypeS

no, it's simple.. fine then you tell me everything what have h, b, d series?? for stock .. not tune...

He want H22 or b series... it's up to him... he choose what he like it....

this thread has NOTHING to do with tuning, or horsepower - this thread is about the weight differences between the D series, B series and H series motors, NOT how much horsepower they have or can produce.

[Chuvy85]

I happened to swap an H22 into my 97 DX coupe and I must put my .02 into this also. Upon choosing which motor to swap in i was looking into either this or a b18c but many people kept bashing me with weight. After reading much and personal experience from h22 swap owners I decided to go with h22. Have never looked back seeing as how i got Tien SS wit pillow mounts, Hasport, BFG KDW's to handle the weight issues and boy is it a drive.

[1990prelude]

What ever happened to the fully assembled weights... or have you not got to that point yet?

[marshun]

Originally Posted by 1990prelude

What ever happened to the fully assembled weights... or have you not got to that point yet?

what? you cant add?

[realdealryan]

Add a couple pounds because the head is a little bigger. Alternator is an alternator, GSR mani weighs as much as the H22, etc....

Are we looking for a 72 lb vtec solenoid on the H22 to make H-haters feel better?

[Numba1 K Series]

LOL

Nice write up y0

[akadmfb]

hey i know this is at random but i'm new at this swap thing and i was wondering what tips you can give to make a h22 swap successful,ecu,brands of parts specs on internals anything will help

[gibsanez]

Originally Posted by akadmfb

hey i know this is at random but i'm new at this swap thing and i was wondering what tips you can give to make a h22 swap successful,ecu,brands of parts specs on internals anything will help

This is not the place to be asking those kind of questions, this is a thread about H/B/D series weights.

Go ask in the forum specific to your car, not here.

[508Honda]

bump

Anyway we can get basically all the weight specs people? Like K20, K24, F20, F22 along with trans? uber weight comparison.

[rkcarguy]

I used to import and ship JDM engines all the time. These were complete with the engine trans intake exh mani(upper and lower to the cat flange) alternator, A/C and P/S pump. Auto-trannys are quite heavier I will stick with manuals only here. Doesn't include shift linkage or axles, but does include intermediate shafts where applicable. Weight is strapped to a pallet and shrink wrapped.
The sohc vtec, B16A, and H22A are the only ones I've sold alot of and all I will post weights for.

ZC VTEC(Z6) ~450#'s
B16A's ~505#'s
H22A's ~622#'s

I've found alot of the brackets and accesories can weigh alot.(all the cast iron and steel crap). Going header and lightweight flywheel with no A/C or P/S you can get rid of almost 70#'s depending on the engine. Some of the late 90's b-series engines also come with alum accesory brackets that make a huge difference.
Even 35#'s is alot of weight. Being a auto-x'r, I noticed a difference moving my EF's battery from the nose to a custom tray more in the "EG" position.
Personally I don't care for the H22A. Makes a Civic noseheavy and in N/A form they are slower than a GSR. This is FACT from several of my customers and their 1/4 mile slips not hearsay.
The H22A is the way to go for straightline boosted application, otherwise I'd stay with a B or D.

[UsMcBaldie]

wouldn't a stage 3 clutch, 8-10 pound fly wheel, & better pressure plate offset the weight difference? I plan on putting it on my 95 Del Sol Si instead of a K20 Type S

[fireblaze2k1]

Nice guys lol. Way to keep a 6 year old thread fresh.

[fastrxu]

Originally Posted by ace1875

yup and 2 "Naturally Aspirated" people to pickup D series

The only i sold my H series was cause i was getting an excellent deal on a B series GSR swap, and was short on money to buy the mounts, axels etc. I also was selling the H more then i paid for it.

LMFAO "naturally aspirated" people
don't mind if I use that one

[Imprezor]

Well I wouldn't say H or B is better until I put two similar (if not the same) car on scales and check the final weight distribution.

Swap weight and stuff means NOTHING if you don't fix that to a position vs the cg of the car.

I also read in one of the pages here that more weight shift to the front gives you more traction....

REMEMBER that tire traction is a compromise between longitudinal grip and lateral grip, you get a bit o both but you can never have both at full power at the same time. That's why trail braking exists.
More weight at the front end may give you more lontigudinal grip for a drag race or a very straight corner exit.
That's ok for drag racing (it doesn't mean you're gonna put a 2 ton cube of steel in the front of the car, I'm talking about shifting weight from the rear to the front, not adding), but increasing weight in the front axle will NEVER give you more cornering power in the front since the same tires will have to accelerate (laterally) more mass, which means that, to take a turn at the same speed you used to with less weight on front, the tires will now have to laterally accelerate more mass, which means they will have to take grip out of nowhere to do that. If you now get lateral weight transfer in consideration, the picture gets even worse... Think about it, 30 lb differente in the front axle or even further more into the front could make hell of a difference in cornering power. Whar we really need to see is F/R weight distribution here.

My 2 coins to the thread.