marshun

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by undercoverdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm kind of a noob to this h22 thing, but i'm very interested. 100 pages is kind of too much to go through..lol so i'll just ask a few questions at a time. hopefully someone can chime in.

anyways, im planning on doing a h2b setup into an EK (obd2b). if i was to get a jdm h22a, what wiring harness would i need to run? would i have to run the EGR setup as well? has anyone had emission problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you want to pass emissions with an obd2 car then you should wire up the engine for obd2. in any case you'll have to use botht he civic harness and the h22 harness.

i've always wondered if you could just run the obd2 prelude harness and just plug n play. i've never had an obd2 harness to try though.

yee SERIOUS

iTrader: (1)

yeah i was just thinking about that....it'd make sense right?

i wonder if i'd throw a cel for CKF cause that's what my cousin had when he had an obd1 motor in his obd2 car and ran an obd2 ecu.

i guessing you could work around it, it'd just take a while.

marshun

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by undercoverdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i was just thinking about that....it'd make sense right?

i wonder if i'd throw a cel for CKF cause that's what my cousin had when he had an obd1 motor in his obd2 car and ran an obd2 ecu.

i guessing you could work around it, it'd just take a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats ckf again? i dont feel like grabbing the manual.

im sure you could work around it. just takes time like anything else.

maybe someone else can chime in about the obd2 harness. theres always someone else out there that has fiddled with that kinda junk. i know i would if i had a shop

yee SERIOUS

iTrader: (1)

CKP - crank position sensor

i believe for one it's in the crank and for the other is in the distributor, but i can't remember which is what. lol

Evil-EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marshun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats ckf again? i dont feel like grabbing the manual.

im sure you could work around it. just takes time like anything else.

maybe someone else can chime in about the obd2 harness. theres always someone else out there that has fiddled with that kinda junk. i know i would if i had a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just wired around my crank sensor. Just got an OBD1 dizzy and pulled the wires from the crank to the new dizzy. I feel like its more efficent having both sensors in one place.

ACK94

i did do a compession check they were 180 acroos the board? So then i am not sure where to look next?? The nessed up thing is that it was running before and just one day it stopped working??????? Any more help would be great thanks so much

Evil-EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACK94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did do a compession check they were 180 acroos the board? So then i am not sure where to look next?? The nessed up thing is that it was running before and just one day it stopped working??????? Any more help would be great thanks so much</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you checked to see if you are getting fire? All your grounds good? Is the fuel pump priming when you activate the ignition? Check these things and let us know.

ACK94

I am getting spark and fuel, but she just wont turn over? Also when trying to start it air is getting pushed out of the TB instead of pulled in? And everything else looks good to me, but i am not an expert on the H22. The weird thing is the car was running before it just stopped suddenly one day without warning. Thanks again.

Turbogixxer

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1483855

ACK94

wow man thanks for the huge write-up of help!! I have looked through most of this already and nothing was evident as being wrong, but i am going to double check everything again and see if i can find anything i might have missed!! Thanks, one more thing what would you feel might be the problem as mine was running then suddenly quit? Thanks again for the write-up.

crazi_E

took of cap from dizzy nd rotor is stuck how do i take it off

hybridpatient95

you unscrew it.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACK94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow man thanks for the huge write-up of help!! I have looked through most of this already and nothing was evident as being wrong, but i am going to double check everything again and see if i can find anything i might have missed!! Thanks, one more thing what would you feel might be the problem as mine was running then suddenly quit? Thanks again for the write-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Usually when it suddenly quits it's most likely the ignitor inside the distributor. But it could be various things.

Good luck.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazi_E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took of cap from dizzy nd rotor is stuck how do i take it off</TD></TR></TABLE>

In order for you to take off the rotor, there is one position you can put the rotor to gain access to the rotor screw. I usually have someone give the engine a couple turns to get access to it.

A lot of times, that screw is a bitch to get off. Take the stubbiest, fatest phillips you can and it should break loose. If it doesn't, you will need to demolish the rotor, and use something like vice grips to get a good handle on it and get it off.

HTH.

ACK94

well i have replaced the igniter already and i didnt help, i might try and get a new one and see? What might some of the other various things be?

Evil-EK

So all you car wants to do is crank and crank but no start up. Correct? and your sure you are getting fire and fuel?

ACK94

yes just crank but not start up. Yes spark is good, and fuel pump is priming, i havent been able to check injectors yet, i have a noid light but have not been able to use it yet. Is there another method you would suggest to check fuel? I also do have a slight residual fuel on my plugs from trying to fire. How do i check if maybe the fuel has gummed?

poison

takes a few basics to get an engine started..

compression ?
spark ?
fuel ?

make 100% sure you have all three of 'em.

what did you do to check for compression? how did you check for spark? and how did you check for fuel?

make 100% sure also that timing is TDC (cams and crank), and all spark plug wires are in the correct firing order.

Turbogixxer

Easiest way to check to see if you have everything BUT fuel is to spray carb cleaner or starter fluid into the intake and try to start it. IF it runs for like 2 seconds, you are missing fuel.

Noid light it already, it will see if you are getting signal to the injector.

Bad gas will smell bad.

ACK94

for compression i have a tester that we installed into the plug holes (for lack of better word) spark was tested by removing the plugs and placing it into the end of the wires then placing it near a ground and seeing a spark, well for fuel i can hear the pump, and when we loosened the bolt on the fuel rail it had pressure, i dont think its the best way to check but i thought it would work?? We are going to check the injectors with a noid light next. We havent dove under the valve cover yet hoping to find a small fix first? The wires are in the right order. The big question i have still is what would make the car run for nearly 2 months then just quit one day???? We replaced the ICM, looking into getting another, the new one was a used one. Thanks for all the help, and i look forward to your answers

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACK94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for compression i have a tester that we installed into the plug holes (for lack of better word) spark was tested by removing the plugs and placing it into the end of the wires then placing it near a ground and seeing a spark, well for fuel i can hear the pump, and when we loosened the bolt on the fuel rail it had pressure, i dont think its the best way to check but i thought it would work?? We are going to check the injectors with a noid light next. We havent dove under the valve cover yet hoping to find a small fix first? The wires are in the right order. The big question i have still is what would make the car run for nearly 2 months then just quit one day???? We replaced the ICM, looking into getting another, the new one was a used one. Thanks for all the help, and i look forward to your answers</TD></TR></TABLE>

IF you blew the fuse for 12v supply to the injectors, that would do it

ACK94

ok i am gonna check that right now then.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

IF you blew the fuse for 12v supply to the injectors, that would do it </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. wouldn't that just be a bitch. fuses are supposed to be "easy", but really makes life harder

ACK94

well i didnt find any blown fuses, i hope i was looking at the right fuses. I checked both of the panels. The one under the hood and below the driver side panel. I did find a fuse that was a higher rating then it calls for but it isnt blown??????

Evil-EK

one more simple thing I can think of is buy a set of cheap 99cent spark plugs and install them. You plugs may be fouled out. Just a thought.