drjondurst

First of all, I cant get the infamous shift linkage pin out..



I stripped these two screws.. now how can I get em out?



How am I supposed to get these radiator and heater hoses off with them being freakin fused onto the metal.

Toxic H

You can use a box cutter to cut the hoses, just start from the top and cut vertically to the other end, then it will be much easier to remove.

drjondurst

But dont I want to re-use them?

sporkcrx

either cut them and buy new ones, use a screwdriver to pry arond it, or get plyers and grip around where it's fused...and rotate it back and forth until it breaks free. As for the screws, my guess would be get vice grips and try to take them out thatta way.

bluecrxsi

they sell a stripped screw removal kit at wal mart i believe. it fits right into a drill and gets the screw out. as for the hoses ,are you doing a swap if so which one?

iwouldHITit

get a dermal and make a slot going across the screw's head..and use a big flat head...that always worked for me
for the shift linkage what i did was found a screw that would cover the pin and taped it out with a hammer..


[Modified by iwouldHITit, 11:58 AM 3/16/2003]

carsaregood

do the dremel idea for the cross point screws. i hate screws btw, why can't everything be bolts? for the bitch pin... get a punch, round, non-tapered. i'm not sure what size exactly... 3/4" ? use that punch, and hammer it through. Its SO much easier that way, it should take about 5 to 6 good hits, you can feel it move with every hammer strike.

flathead screwdriver on the hoses, and lots of pulling and twisting.


[Modified by carsaregood, 12:43 PM 3/16/2003]

keithv

i'll add to the current ideas listed...

for the shift linkage pin aka the bitch pin, an exhaust bolt will fit perfectly. use that with a 3lb or 5lb sledge and hammer the **** out of it. if worse comes to worse, leave the linkage in and drop the motor out the bottom ghetto style.

for the stripped screws, you could pick up an impact driver from like home depot, lowes, sears. it will look like this.

ok last, for the hose, i would just cut it. if its fused to the metal piping, its either gonna break when you try to pry it off or tear or something. you can try first with a set of channel locks on it to see if it will turn, but if its on there good, just cut it.

oh and watch out for coolant running everywhere when cutting the hose. the motor holds a TON of coolant even if you remove the drain plug.


hth.

NCchris

My suggestion for the bitch pin is to leave it alone. Disconnect the shift linkage at the other (shifter) end and it will come out without disconnecting it at the tranny end. After it's out use a 1/4" punch from the top side. Worked for me.
HTH
chris

Mugen Dom

for the pin certain phillips head screw drivers fit it perfectly and u have a handle unlike punches....those screw look like u were using the wrong size screw driver....as for the hoses if u get a pair of channel locks u may be able to save the hoses if ur carefull but ull probably be better of with new ones

Louie B.

they accually make a tool specifically for getting the hoses off without cutting them, any Snap on, Matco, or Mac tool truck is going to have them. We call them "nose pickers" they have a screwdriver handle, and a round, pointed tip that has a hook to it. you can slide it between the hose and the fitting and run it around it, seperating the two.

as for the pin, 1/4 straight punch and a 5 lb sledge worked for me.

as for the screws... I think you have enough advise as for how to get them out, my advise is don't mistake one of them for a ground when re-installing everything! one of those wires is the output from the alternator, and I got mixed up and hooked it to ground... not good!!!

drjondurst

Thanks alot everyone, I used box cutters and got the hoses off.. (anyone know how much new ones cost?)

Im about to leave to autozone and see if they've got a 1/4" punch I can use.. if not I'll just pull the motor with it still attatched and knock out the pin from the top like someone else mentioned.

I didnt think about a dremel for the screws.. thanks. What sucks tho is I dont have a dremel, but I have a small *** saw that might work. Im gonna try it.

Oh yea, one more thing. How does the speedometer cable come out? It doesnt say in the online helms and I havnt found a thread that says exactly how. I think I read that Im not supposed to remove the rubber boot because something might fall into the tranny?

RCautoworks

The speedo cable is held on my a horse show clip, and for the hoses next time you need to remove some. I put some vice grips on them and turned them alittle. This broke the seal with the engine, then they slide right off. Some I still had to cut though. But I was not gonna reuse them anyways.

drjondurst

How much did your new hoses cost u?

shortyz

dood this is what i do.. works every time. pry it back with a big flat head and spray some WD 40 or whatever in the crack.. wiggle the hose .. itll pop right off!! go try it.

and for the bitch pin. go buy a 20$ air chisel, grind the bit to fit that exactly and hit it.. itll pop right out in 3 seconds.. works awsome for putting it in..


[Modified by shortyz, 1:04 PM 3/16/2003]

drjondurst

Good idea but I already cut em. The ONLY things I have left to do now are the speedometer cable and the drivers side axel.. that damn axle nut will NOT come off.. already broke a breaker bar on it. Im gonna go get the speedo cable now.

Louie B.

speedo cable: pull the boot up, there's a little clip underneath, then it just slides out.

Personally, there's no way I'd even atempt an axle nut removal without an air impact wrench.

cr-x si

ya the speedo caple wasn't to hard for me i just poped the clip off and it came out. My axles came out very easy too all i did was take off the bottom wishbone bolt and lifted the rotors out. then the axle came out like butter. i don't think i even used the impact wrench.

shortyz

man the speedo cable always gives me **** everytime.. espcially when your working from under.. and not with intake off...

yeah axle nut = impact + 32mm


i think the trick with a breaker bar to get them off is. to tap it with a hammer. its more binded then actually tite.

Malgerus

When I yanked the A6 out of the CRX, I simply left the bitch pin in and manoevred it out while I hoisted the motor.