ramboPandA

Hello everyone. Today was working on my motor. Found out #4 was the one knocking.

So i looked at the crank. There is like a bump on it, I can describe it as, if you put a credit card or something like that on a flat table and run your finger from the card onto the table there is a little bump. The height of the bump is a little bit bigger than the card to the table and it is about half a CM in width.


When i look at the other journals, they all look smooth and a nice coating on them. When i looked at the journal that had the rod knock, the metal is a dull color and when i run my finger on it, it feels rough. Do you guys think from what im describing

do you think my crank is toast or salvageable?? Pretty much the clear smooth coating on the journal is gone, except for the bump, the top of the bump still has some of the coating on it.

Also when i was explaining the credit card thing, the bump on the crank is about 1 and 1/2 the credit card. So if you have 1 and 1/2 credit card laid flat down on the table, the top of the credit card is the bump, and the table is the remaining crank.

lostforawhile

sounds like the surface of the crank has lost it's heat treating, overheating is what causes the color change

ramboPandA

Yes do you think it is still good? the heat treating is gone totally

lostforawhile

I doubt it, that journal will never hold up

ramboPandA

Dam bro, its a crank from a ITR b18c5 .

Is it possible for a shop to fix that? or is it worth is to just get another crank.

B_Swapped93

just source a jdm B18C-R or "build" an engine

lostforawhile

once a crank journal gets so hot that it affects the metallurgy of the journal, it will never be the same, boat anchor now, or hang it on your shop wall

lostforawhile

I would like to see a picture of the carnage though

ramboPandA

I only have 400 $ help

Ls vtec or b20 vtec? I mean, it would not be that bad, i have the itr cams.

Would i have to drill anything?

B_Swapped93

no replacement for displacement, b20 all day you'll need the LSV kit form GE or BWR and a head studs and a different ECU to run that combo possibly missing something but I think that's it.


you'll be in over $400 the engine alone will be $4-500, you have an ITR no? sell something off I to a "hype R" fan boy....

lostforawhile

how bad is the other end, was the bearing gone or something? the rod is probably gone assuming this is a rod journal, I think you said it was four knocking so I assume you mean rod journal

ramboPandA

Yes i will find out today if the crank is still good. Yesterday had me and some friends lift a motor to my friends uncles house so he can get the crank pulley off. I had no other way and i did not want to order that tool and wait like 4 days lol.

Going to take it out today and bring it over to a machine shop and ill get some pictures up.

ramboPandA

Hehe. Honestly i think Honda should of put the k20a in the dc2 ITR, that thing would of been a monster.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Just buy a B18C5 crank. Your ITR is going to be worth a few thoudand $$ less with a B20 or LS bottom end in it. I know a crank doesn't cost a few thousand.

Buy a crank. Make sure the main bearings are fine. If there's a doubt...buy a longblock/shortblock.

ramboPandA

Yeah i know it will be worth less without the OEM stuff. But I am not sure where to find a b18c5 crank, even if i find one how do i know its the real deal.

Ill post a pic of the crank soon going to eat first.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Bernardiparts.com doesn't sell them?

ramboPandA

http://acura.bernardiparts.com/produ...0-P73-J01.aspx

1044 $$. . Might try to get a used one. I think i will try to call engine depots see if they can sell my just the crank or block

ramboPandA

Here is #4 cylinder. Not looking good. The thickness of that line is about 1 and 1/2 thickness of a credit card to a flat surface.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

How come you don't post in the ITR forum instead? Someone there probably has a crank.

ramboPandA

Because i think i can get responses faster in this. Also...

Are you familiar with which way the connecting rod caps should be facing? Because before i took anything apart i noticed connecting rod caps for 4,3,2 are facing toward the timing belt. And connecting rod cap for 1 is facing toward the flywheel, i took everything apart, but i kept it exactly the way it was before i took it apart.


Im just curious because why would the Connecting rod cap for number 1 be facing the other way than the others. Here is what i mean on the cap it has a number 2 on it. The top of the number 2 is facing toward the timing belt, this is the way it is for 4,3,2 and for 1.. the top of the 2 is facing toward the flywheel.

This stumbled me. Because i noticed the connecting rod cap for number 1 was looser to take off than the others, like it was way easier, so maybe it wasn't torqued correctly or someone put it on backwards??? Idk i mean this wasn't the cylinder that was knocking.

B_Swapped93

Could OP simply just use a C1 crank... both 87mm maybe 1 is lighter who knows, but if you're swapping bearings too does it matter even?.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The ITR crank is heavier than a GSR crank. It has counterweights for smoothness/reliability at higher revs.

Sure, you COULD use a GSR crank. But would you do something like.... using a B16 LSD trans to replace a busted ITR one? I wouldn't.

OP...I can't answer your connecting rod question. Again....try the ITR forum.

mcgalliardt20

Im having starting problems as well. I went an bought a new ignition switch for my 96 acura integra. An it still want start. I have no clue whats wrong with it. I checked my starter an it is still good.