FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Car: 1996 Civic Hatchback CX w/ b18b1 swap

My exhaust setup is stock b18b1 header, Civic EX OBD2 cat, EX Midpipe, Stock Muffler

When I swapped in the car, I extended the O2 sensor wires myself (dumb idea, I know). After realizing it was a bad idea, I bought the harness's because I was throwing CEL's for both O2's.

After I installed both O2 extension harness's (shoutout HondaPartsHero), my primary O2 CEL went away, but my secondary O2 was still throwing Code 63.

I replaced the secondary O2 sensor, because I wasn't sure if it was faulty or not. After replacing the secondary O2 sensor, my CEL has returned. Not sure what to do now, someone was telling me it could be my cat because it's from a civic not integra.

Any Input is Appreciated, Thanks!

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

bump anyone?

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

bump

joey1320

You will need to buy a DVOM, learn how to use it and search for the ecu pinouts for the secondary o2 sensor. Perform a voltage drop test and a continuity test from the ecu to the sensor.

Report back

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

I needed to buy a multimeter anyway, what would these tests tell me Joey?

HondaPartsHero

joey1320

The tests will tell you if the wiring is good. I dont have the Honda diagnosis tree chart in front of me, but if you find it, I'm sure it will tell you what resistance values the oxygen sensor should have. That will tell you if the sensor is compatible with your ecu requirements.

Edit: just saw the diagnosis tree posted above me, it wasn't coming up on my phone.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, HondaPartsHero, I will need to stop by HB and pick up a multimeter.

Question: Does my Civic EX Cat have anything to do with this CEL? It's an Integra engine with an EX Cat, if I put in an integra cat would that do anything?

Thanks.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Alright, sounds good. Off to harbor freight soon.

joey1320

Not unless your converter is damaged or ruined. A converter takes any unburn fuel molecules(easiest explanation) and reburns them or changes their form into a harmless form like nitrogen, Carbon Dioxide or water vapor. Again this is the 1st grade class version...

Anyways, if your converter is of good quality and in good health, it should be able to handle the task. If it was already weak or deteriorating, then it could cause issues. But usually what happens to a converter is the "honeycomb" material nurns/melts into a solid state and blocks your exhaust flow, creating a 'bogging' feeling when trying to accelerate.

joey1320

Dont go to Harbor Freight, please get a better quality unit, even if its a Craftsman one...

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Hmm alrighty, thanks for the easy lesson Maybe I'll check out Sears.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Alright here are the results so far,

Resistance between male terminals 3/4 - 13.1 Ohms (OK)
Continuity between male terminals 3/4 individually - Both No Continuity (OK)

This is where i started to get confused,
Voltage Between Female Terminals 3/4 - the voltage was jumping all over the place, it never was set at one number; does this mean I am getting voltage or not?

Former User

This is a very rare case where HondaPartsHero posted the wrong troubleshooting diagrams. The tests for code 63 are different.

What ECU?

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Ha alright, my ECU is a OBD2A P75

Former User

Which of the three OBD2 codes (P0137, P0138, P0139) is thrown?

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, I don't have a scanner. I was using a paper clip to jump the connector and watch the blinks.

Former User

A free service at AutoZone is pulling CEL codes with a code reader.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Alright I'll drop by there and report back ASAP.

Going to try to BAR my car tomorrow since I already booked the appt. 2 weeks in advance. Let's hope i can get this figured out.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Alright, just got it scanned and it is P0137.

Former User

Do the short test at terminal 1 (Wht/Red wire) of the secondary O2 sensor connector (female terminal/wire harness side).

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

My terminal 1 is red/yellow and terminal 2 is red/white, not sure if that matters, but i did the short check on the red/white wire.

Voltage .3 or Below W/ Engine at 3k RPMS - Yes
Voltage .3 or Below W/ Engine at Idle - Yes

Disconnect Connector D at ECU, Continuity Check Terminal 1 W/ Body Ground - YES

I assumed grounding the multimeter to the negative terminal of the battery would suffice. So this means I have a short in that wire? How can i fix that?

Thanks for the help thus far.

Former User

Terminal 1 is the Wht/Red wire. You are misinterpreting the connector diagram. Terminal 2 is a Red/Yel wire. Terminal 3 is a Blk/Yel wire. Terminal 4 is a Blk/Whtwire.

And you are not doing a short test, which measures Ohms or continuity not voltage.

FeelTheBass

iTrader: (1)

Im using the wiring harness from my stock d16y7 obd2a.

I thought I was supposed to be doing a short test, or are you saying that I'm doing it incorrectly? I'm a tad confused.

Former User

Carefully read my last post and the troubleshooting diagram. You are not doing a short test when you measure voltage.