diatibe24

I fully expected to be in the low 13's maybe even high 12's. I understand my 60ft is horrific but even with my 60ft between 2.3-2.6ish I would think I should be in mid 13's at the worst. What am I doing wrong or is this typical?? Again I clearly need more seat time and I am willing to go buy drag radials but I am not going to waste money on DR's to just run 13.5's. There has to be more to what I am doing wrong besides my 60ft, right? Here is my set up let me know what you think. My best 60fts (2.3s) were done at a 3k launch as I tried higher and just got worse. My 1-2 and 2-3 syncros seem a bit worn maybe? It scratches going between those gears at high RPM. Oh and the track is 500ft above sea level.

97 Civic coupe,Car Weight with me and full tank-2700lbs
305whp/262wtq as measured on a Dynojet
Stock LS Turbo with peak HP @6200rpm

Transmission
Stock GSR, with Redline MTL fluid
Com. Clutch 6puk sprung hub

Suspension
Progress CSII-350ft/500r spring rate

Tires
Front 16x7 Toyo Proxy R1R
Rear 16x7 Nitto Neo Gen

Am I right in my disappointment or am I right where I should be? If there anything driving wise you can easily tell by looking at my slips what I am doing wrong (Besides my obvious 60ft)?

scottdh20

your mph is telling me your making a lot less whp than you think....those traps are good for like 225whp or so...and that's stretching it. I was trapping 102 with a stock d15b7 and a tiny turbo...that was under 200whp, maybe 180ish

are you sure you haven't developed a boost leak, does boost feel as if its coming in later or does the setup feel different than when it was tuned?

I ran some disappointing times...13.1's at 115 (on 20lbs)and some 13.9-13.5's at 105(15lbs) on some nitto nt01's ....power is way low for me...for my boost level I should be mid 120's so I have lots of tuning to do.

on nt01's and 20lbs - 13.15@115
on 24.5x8x15 and 20lbs - 12.9@108.9

now those slicks are way to tall and I lost some gearing, but they help with wheel hop but don't expect miracles.

19integra91

24.5" slick on a 15" wheel will help that 60 ft... looks to me you're spinning off the launch. also, what size turbo you running? you may wanna raise your launch control to around 3500 rpm. that'll also help that 60 ft if you get off that line smoother

diatibe24

I was thinking of maybe that might be what it is too. It feels good in 3rd 4th but kinda sluggish in 1/2 not like when I first got it back from tuner. I think another dyno session may be in order if nothing else to rule out boost leak.

hon2984

I think traction is one big issue. I have almost the same setup. Slicks and a higher rpm launch, and preloading will make a world of a difference.

diatibe24

http://www.precisionturbo.net/turboc...-4831B-MFS/552

diatibe24

I know next weekend I am going to take my inner cooler off and re do the piping to make double sure I take care of boost leaks. The blow off valve pipe is kind of iffy and would also like for it to have better fitment all around.

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

I would almost say to just launch the car much easier and not as aggressive. Take the car to 2k and start preloading the clutch using the handbrake before taking off. You may not even want to go 100% tps in 1st gear until you are almost at the top of the gear, depending on how much traction you are getting past the 60ft mark. Also shifting makes a HUGE difference. If you can, no lift shifting will make a big impact on your ET.

If its got a slight scratch between the gears, try re-bleeding the clutch and adjusting your pedal throw a little farther out. I had the same issue and getting a little more throw on the pedal allowed the pressure place to fully disengage from the disc. I believe I was using the same clutch also.

boostjunkie757

when i was making 250 back in like 04 on a completely stock b18c5 w/ a t3/04e i went 13.3 @ 108 i think..

CDecker0218

You may be down in power. I would try a different dyno if you are able to see if its making that power too. Like others have said your trap is down but you have to remember alot of people here have 2100lbs hatches fully gutted so your trap wont be as high. You should be in the 110mph range

95dxsir2

if your trying to go as fast as possible, buy some 23" slicks. 60ft times are horrible and your mph is good for mid 13's. weather plays an important roll on how much power you can put down.

Honda Bull

Your MPH is definitely not indicating 300 whp even taking into account for vehicle weight, transmission gearing, and tire spin. It' s looking more like 200 whp. I would check the usuals - boost leak, proper AFR, etc. and keep us updated with what you find.

As for the transmission, since your torque isn't too high, switch to a thinner fluid to see if it helps the synchro out. The synchro needs to evacuate the fluid quickly to brake/accelerate the gear/hub. The thicker the fluid, the harder that is to do - and drag racing does little to heat the fluid up enough to thin it out. You just need to find the right balance between gear protection and synchro operation - it's always a tradeoff. That's not to say your synchro isn't worn, but see what a thinner fluid will do first before replacing the parts (Amsoil 5w30 MTF, Pennzoil Synchromesh, Torco MTF, etc.).

Good luck!

diatibe24

Hmmm, OK I am going to switch out my trans fluid to the Pennzoil since it is off the shelf here as well as change my clutch fluid and re-bleed it. That should help with the shifting. So Ill do that and eliminate all boost leaks (or try ) by re-doing all my inner cooler pluming. Ill race it again if I feel a significant improvement. If not than Ill try a different Dyno from the shop that tunned it. I got it tuned at Absolute Pro-Formance but I have messed with it since than. I also am super close to Peter Farrell Supercars so I'll have it Dyno there as well. I was told when I picked it up from tune it was 305whp but my times are more like 200whp. Thats not to say it was a lie but it does say I do not have 305whp anymore. It will be a couple weeks before I can fully make all changes but I will post results.

shawty22

Buddy of mine made 240whp with a SOHC and he went 13.3 @ 103. When my car was at 300whp i went 11.9 @ 116. Both cars were on a slick...but i think youre making less power than you think. A lot of it is seat time like you said...Try different things each pass, get it dialed in.

A L I A S

im curious, do you have a boost gauge and wide band gauge? im pointing towards a boost leak. have you checked/changed your plugs? also, you need to learn to preload the suspension and seriously shed some weight! you should have no problem cutting 1.9-2.0 60ft times with r1r's. also go to mir its a much better prepped track.

diatibe24

Yes I have both gauges and I will be chasing out the boost leak this weekend to see if I have one. It seems to be fine in 3rd and 4th gear (not great but OK) and 1st and 2nd almost feel NA. After driving it around some (not at the track but on back roads) it feels like the clutch isnt fully engaged in 1st/2nd and the hotter it gets the worse it feels. I am going to flush my clutch fluid and re bleed and adjust the peddle. I feel like the peddle doesn't quite have as much travel as it should. Also going to change trans fluid to something a little thinner per a recommendation above.

I will cut weight and practice pre loading after I find out and fix my massive power loss. I just want my car to be the best it can be first. There will always be little things wrong but loosing around 100whp from either a poorly adjusted clutch hydraulics which results in not fully engaging the clutch and getting worse as it heats up, or fixing a boost leak, or both is going to be my first priority.

My weight cutting will consist of basically hollowing out the car from behind the front two seats back. And than pulling odds and ends off from around the car like dust shields and maybe cutting the front bumper.

snobordboy

Yeah figure out what may be happening power-wise, as that will make a large difference, especially if you have messed with the setup since tuning.

Tires and pre-loading will be huge though, as a car that light (or lighter) on a slick and launched right, should cut 1.6 or better 60 ft times, and the general rule of thumb is double the time cut from 60 ft on the big end.

Don't waste time and money on drag radials, just go to slicks, and swap them at the track if you are driving the car to the track.

95dxsir2

an easy way to check if the clutch is slipping. do a 3rd gear pull in boost and blip the clutch (just as if you were speed shifting). you def. feel if the clutch slips or not. I had 300 whp and a new comp. clutch 6 puck sprung. I like the pedal engagement at the bottom and that is not the way Comp. wants the pedal adjusted. I adjusted it up and slip went away. I also had to pull the trans to de glaze the psi plate, fly and clutch disc. hope that helps any.

also, have somebody watch your boost and a/f while doing a pull. and what have you "messed with"?

diatibe24

I messed with the inner cooler piping on both the hot side chasing out an oil pan leak as I had to move the hot side pipes to get to other things to do that job. And I messed with the cold side as I was preparing to pull the transmission out thinking it was broke but come to find out I snapped the half shaft from wheel hop and trans was fine.

Pro-SeriesFab

The fact that you have a high of 84 and a low of 76mph through the 1/8 tells me you do need to get the shifting sorted out. Either that or your boost leak is getting bigger

Trying to cut a good 60ft with just about any FWD on "street" tires is a challenge.

If you're worried about your ET, run slicks.

EDIT: Your backhalf is only 20mph . . . tune is off as well on a turbo car.

98vtec

we already know there are issues that need to be sorted out, but on top of that, you cant expect the world of your car just because it makes X amount of power on your FIRST track day. regardless of what people say, drag racing isnt just banging gears and making times. there is a lot more involved and it takes practice and obtaining a feel for the car.

as already said, street tires are pretty much pointless at a drag strip setup for slicks.

Twenty47

2.3-6 60 foot is bad. my 13 si with 217whp goes 2.2-2.3 launching at almost idle like im taking off from a street light. any higher and the stock Michelins are like glass but itll still do 2.3

SR20S13

My stock 2009 civic si on a crappy track with some fuzion all seasons I get low 2.3 60ft times so o agree with rob your 60ft sucks and most of a drag race is won in the 60ft

diatibe24

UPDATE:

I changed out my transmission fluid per HONDA BULLS advice and that did wonders. No more scratching shifts into gears. It still is a little notchy but that is likely due to my crappy job of bleeding the clutch hydraulics. I re bled it so it is less crappy than it was but still needs to be re-done. I will do that next weekend when I can have help.

It turns out I do have a boost leak. My car was tuned at 18psi for my 305whp. and after multiple pulls on highway and empty country roads the most I would see is 14-15psi. I am in the process of re-doing my inner cooler piping and cleaning of my BOV because it was saturated with oil from my catch can which was all messed up. I am fixing the BOV and catch can issue this week because I have them off the car and can do that in my apartment. BOV just needs cleaned up and catch can just needed parts of it tighten.

Also per every ones advice I am going to eventually run on slicks see pic below of some snazzy new Lenso's I bought. Also the owner of the shop I use for tuning offered to go with me to the drag strip once my problems have been chased out so he can help me learn how to drive better and help me out with little things. I came from the DSM world and am used to AWD and FWD is a bear to learn.

hon2984

Looking forward to some new times.....