friutoftheLude

Hey all, i usually mostly just look here for info when i need it, but i need some advice

I been searching for an H22a4, JDM, or H23a, or type S

the type s i know ill get from Hmotors if i decide on that route, but as far as finding a A4 block H22a or H23, what should i look for when i actually go look at the engine itself block-wise, i dont want to buy a block then it would be no good, im not very wealthy, as this build will be a slow one, and also my 1st swap, but changed my clutch last year and i feel like superman lol

what im trying to say is what do i need to stay away from?, or some signs of a "bad" block, aside from the obvious, deep scarring?

BTW, this will be N/A daily driver, swapping my H22a4 out of my 01' base, my current engine has only 111K OG miles, so im gonna drive it for a while longer as i build the new one

ALSO, anyone know a good machine shop for our cars near Baltimore?

thanks in advance for the replies, just dont want to spend money on a block and have it be garbage, but i couldnt word it right on google to get the exact question in there

snobordboy

What is the actual "build" plan?

Is this going to be a sleeved block with forged pistons? If so, who cares about cylinder walls.

Are you planning to use a 50 or 55 mm crank? That will dictate what year block you need, for the mains to match.

Do you ATTS? If so do you want to keep it? If no to either, stay away from any ATTS block, including the Type-S that had ATTS.

The most important thing for any block you buy is the crank area. The mains need to be straight, unscarred, in good shape, however you want to put it.

Second thing is the deck surface should be straight and free of marks or mars. A machine shop can check this best, and advise if too much decking is needed. If the engine has not overheated, it should be pretty damn good.

Personally, I like the closed deck 50 mm main H22A engines, and you can get them for a decent price usually. If you want the 55 mm crank or an open deck, than an H22A4 or 98+ H22A is your ticket.

If you don't want to do internal work, or maybe just valvetrain and cams on a stock engine, the H23A bluetop is really an excellent engine, and becoming more popular as people learn about them.

snobordboy

Oh and as you are in MD, call up Evans tuning. They are great with H motors, and can either do the work or get you in touch with great people to do it.

They tuned Roger's 9.3 second 4th gen, just for an idea of how well they know the H.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

So.....why are you getting a new motor?

friutoftheLude

my bad guys, ive had the car for about 2 years now, and from day 1 theres been a small tick or knock, but i think knock is a strong word imo, in the 2 years ive had it, the sound has never changed nor does it run bad, you can hear it worse when i first start it up, and get softer, sometimes its there minimal, sometimes at operating temp i dont hear it at all, its not that bad at all, it does NOT get louder when i rev the engine, but its there, thats why im gonna get another engine and "slowly" put it together

i already have the tri-y header, 2.5 in mandrel bent piping, and apex WS noir muffler, i wanted the stainless muffler, but i waited for months on backorder, so i just got the noir instead. I didnt want to put on this stuff while there is a slight noise going on

i really appreciate the replies, the H23a looks really cheap about $600-$700, the JDM H22 seems the way to go, im not interested in boosting, but i still might sleeve it for peace of mind, and gives me more piston options, but yes im gonna upgrade the valvetrain, cams etc. I just want a nice clean car that i can drive for more years to come, because i love driving my car and you dont see many anymore

thx alot for the Evans tuning tip and the tips what to look for in another block, im slowly doing my research about everything, I just want to make the right decisions and not waste money lol, and this helps alot

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The whole thing kind of seems excessive. Maybe your motor just needs a valve adjustment?

There's no need to sleeve a new motor if you're not planning to boost it. Have you considered a Euro R swap? That has more agressive cams already.

Idk....its your money.

md23vtec

OP if you're just wanting to do a build just to do it. PM ME I'll steer you in the right direction depending on your goals. But I would get the noise in the current engine addressed first but that's just me.


FYI Jeff Evan's has NEVER touched my car. Jason Hunt/Rick Everley are the only ones who have ever done anything to my car as far as tuning goes. Not sure where you're getting your information but its wrong.

Now don't get me wrong Jeff is a great tuner and does top notch work. I've sent plenty of people to him over the years and I've honestly never heard anything back but good things.

What he said.

friutoftheLude

thanks for the replies guys, some direction is what i needed. ill be looking into the places recommended when the time comes

BUT, as far as the knocking, a rod knock wouldnt last me 2 years with no change?

sometimes i hear it, then i dont, warm engine i barely hear it, i guess when the internals expand it gets less noticeable, when i get a chance ill post a vid of the noise, been wanting to for a while but never got around to it

ive adjusted the valves thanks to a thread here (jludes valve adjustment) appreciate the tutorial, but it didnt help the issue at hand, i have looked at videos with almost the same noise as mine, but the thread usually ends up going nowhere, everyone is just throwing what they THINK it is and the OP never gets the problems solved

B serious

iTrader: (1)

H22's seem to mind knock less than say....a B series. But I doubt it would just be ok for 3 years with actual rod knock.

What you're hearing is either normal clatter (motors are just clanky when they're not warmed), or you could have an exhaust leak or something. I'm going to guess you're just hearing normal clatter. It's obviously been fine for 3 years. Why don't you wait till something actually goes wrong before you jump into replacing a motor?

If you do need to buy a motor, and you went and bought one in good shape....why wouldn't it run happily for 10+++++ years without building it? Your stock motor is well over 10 years old and its still fine.

Infact, you're usually more likely to have issues after you open up a motor to "improve" it.

Simple> Complex. Leave it alone. Enjoy driving it.

preludeNApower

Don't forget about the f20b

snobordboy

Sorry Roger, For some reason I thought that your car had been tuned at Evans. Maybe since you and Evans were both running the 67MM SX400 right when it came out, and I thought you guys were working with it together.

Good to see you around here, got anything new in the works?