CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

Starting this build thread for all the CRX lovers, especially those that like the K series motors.


The car with the wheels (Konig Candys) - until I get to the body work later on in the build


RSP intake manifold front view from how the drivetrain sits in the engine bay


the K20 motor with the aluminum R40 oil pan vs. ground clearance. I will shim the motor mounts down about 1/4" since there seems to be a little room - but will not do that until I install the hood lift kit


As you can see the hood doesnt close, one piece of the webbing needs to be removed



Removed a big chunk of the webbing and it closes but not fully (hits oil cap and valvecover) - this is without the rear hood spacers


When installing the motor


The engine bay pre prepped for the engine - pressure washed, cleaned and sprayed the engine bay for a nice clean look



The final isntallation of the right hand side engine mount bracket (post welding)



Placement of the Hasport mount bracket using the two 12mm bolt holes to align then welding



Close up of the welding at various points around the mount bracket



Grind away prep to weld in mount bracket



top view of the engine bay before welding in the bracket


the drivetrain fully assembled and ready to be dropped into the engine bay



The drive train fully mounted in



view of the Toda Racing clutch and lightened flywheel kit - the disc is very thin (they use Exedy) - disc diameter is much smaller than the factory disc size as well


This is my ugly ole *** lmao which my daughter took as I was working


view from the side with the K-tuned alternator relocation kit installed


Have to give shout out to Mike at ktuned as he's been helping me out with obtaining parts for this build and for my full blown all motor race car. ..recommend k-tuned parts to anyone.


S2000 oil pump conversion using the ERL kit


Type S tranny with OEM Si LSD


Will be doing some nice testing with this RSP intake manifold. ..Greg (6spd_EK) is gonna send me some of his velocity stacks test kits to test after I obtain a benchmark from the stock intake setup RSP manifold


Had a few bent exhaust valves from when this motor was in my race car and the old ferrea blue rockers broke...so lapped all of the exhaust replacement valves from super tech. ..still have one minor leaking intake valve where slight damage on the seat so I lapped as best I could and left as is and leaked down...has 11 percent leak so I said screw it and left as is...


New vs old bent valve


S2000 oil pump clearance with the R 40 aluminum oil pan..just mounted to the engine girdle



The engine size is 2.59 liters (90mm bore x 101.9mm stroke)...engine was built about 5yrs ago for the all motor race car.


the custom pistons with wristpins moved up to accomodate larger stroke crank in K20 block


Can't remember if this dyno chart was from this motor or another 99 stroke one that I had...have to go recheck my records.


Started to figure out how I'll tackle wiring and radiator system last night



The crappy old brakes on there currently...have a set of 91 Civic EX sedan hubs, ITR calipers, 07 Mini Cooper 11" rotors and 15/16" master cylinder in the works to help stop the beast


CRX brake assembly to see how it looks... 90/91 spindles, ITR calipers '07 Mini Cooper 11" cross drilled rotors



All the hubs, brake pieces and some Hasport stage 3 axles.


Here's the Land Rover flex fuel sensor that I plan to use to blend between gas and e85 maps with AEM series 2



This is one of my favorites, JDM SIR instrument cluster with 8k RPM red line and 9500rpm max ...along with electronic vss which I'll need to wire in.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I've never heard of a 2.6L K20. I'm not really into the K-series yet, but the most I've seen is a couple tenths, not half a liter.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

nice.... glad your back in the game.

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

I understand, yeah it doesnt come like that from the factory, its a custom made engine.

thanks Charlie Moua.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

It's overboard sleeves, right? haha, I know they didn't make a K26! lol. Definitely cool. I meant I haven't even heard of anyone doing this before. But I'm not hip on the k-series stuff. I mostly bum around the 4th gen subforum.

ef2_civic

iTrader: (1)

Yes he does. Very much. We noticed. LoL

Yeah cheetah been around forever. Like me old school keeping up with the game though as much as u can with family and mortgage to pay ain't easy right bro

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

yup, amen to that lol...family and mortgage come first before the racing/project cars lol.

OptimisticWay

I will likely imitate this build if it turns out to be successful. Where did you source the EX spindles? What modifications, if any, are needed to install the mini rotor and itr caliper?

Snoop G

Ur 1 crazi man ! k26 CRX

F22Master

Once you have EX (or you can use DA) knuckles, the ITR calipers and Mini rotors are completely bolt on. No drilling, grinding, or machining necessary!

Now on finding EX knuckles, good luck lol. You can either look online and buy a pair for ~$150+, or, you can search junkyards like a mad man, and get the pair for ~$50.

whited

Seems like your popular Cheetah.

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

lol you guys are too funny.

yeah, exactly like F22Master said, problem is sourcing a pair of EX knuckles. See added pic of the Mini Cooper 280mm or 11" Rotors cross drilled that I sourced from RockAuto (about 85 bucks shipped for the pair)...I'll probably pain the ITR calipers black before installing.

right now I'm debating whether to go for the Karcepts 36mm hubs or keep the 32mm hubs and just use a pair of RSX Base axles. People seem to think that the OEM axles can hold up to 350whp...I guesstimate this setup will be somewhere between 300-350 on E85... It made about 370whp already in my race car, but that was with a full racing ASP hood exit header and with Kinslers 64mm ITBs...so I know power will be considerably less than that with the RSP manifold, 70mm OEM bored throttle body and SSR 4-2-1 street header for K-series in EF swap.

Added pic of radiator or the wiring as I started figuring out how i'm gonna tackle the wiring and cooling system last night, CRX radiator is a no no (upper hose radiator opening is right against the side of the RSP intake manifold). So I had a 15yr old Griffin VS Scirocco aftermarket radiator which I will completely flip upside down to get the ports on the left hand side of the car, cap off the radiator cap, and use a Moroso or other radiator cap inline top radiator hose. The kits out there now that have the cap with the adapter off the head mught be too high and hit the hood in the EF swaps...so dont want to spend money on that only to find out it hits lol.

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you got something serious going on there. That leaky valve seat would drive me crazy, but that is because I am super meticulous. The car looks like its going to be awesome! Really cool build indeed!
SUBSCRIBED.

OptimisticWay

I have been searching religiously for the past two years ever since I first heard about them. They are about as common as unicorns around here. Just have to buy them I guess. I just got Si knuckles which are the same as DX so not special. 50% day was the only thing good about the deal.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

EX are a pain, F22Master lucked out recently and found some though. I just sourced DA knuckles myself and the difference between that and stock isn't much (to me).

CHEETAH, I think the Sirocco, or whatever, radiator will work.

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

hey Optimistic, i think i saw a guy selling 90-91 EX knuckles with with a brake kit already...theres a recent post on the For Sale section, take a look.

Freemana, it looks like it will fit - I'm sure if I remove couple of old lower radiator brackets i can tuck it in nicely just hate touching all that old stuff but might just have to. I was just happy that i had a radiator laying around to use...thats a rarety for me lol...I'm also torn whether to go with -10AN welded fittings and do -10AN hoses for the radiator system.

1991CRX, thanks man i've been so excited about this thing as if i'm a lil kid lol...i have a close to 400hp all motor race car and this CRX excites me more somehow lmao...I think its the grassroots veins in me that like a street car thats fast. I'm even trying to get a nice lil stereo system in there too, its crazy.

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

Well, this thing looks like something to be excited about! I know what you mean, I love the NA street cars as well, and drive an NA CRX... It's not that fast, but it runs 12s with a full interior so it its quick for what it is... and that is with barely over 225WHP in a 1990 SI. With your build, you will be over 300WHP so its going to be pretty fast little street car for sure! My car surprises Vettes at the track all the time, people always ask what turbo I'm running lol (not the new Vettes though... holy sheeyat those things are fast right from the factory)... l You car will eat them all alive... A 4 Cylinder NA daily driven car that eats up $50,000 - $70,000 legitimate sports cars that represent the pinnacle of GM performance and engineering is something to be excited about. :thumb up: RUN CHEETAH RUN!

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

225whp in a CRX? 12sec all motor street car? thats not something to take lightly...at all !!! do you know that Evos and STis dont even run 12's out the box? you got a nice car there with 225...

there is a function line that says the more HP you are the harder the traction so even if i'm in the 280-300 range, its this 2.6 liter torque that will kill traction where it wont be as much fun on street tires - thats partially why i'm trying to run the AEM gen 2 EMS where I can do some sort of traction control by reading the front wheel vs rear wheel ABS wheel speed sensors.

Also I need tomount the other wheels and posts up pics to get the Poll going, right now its tied with the Konig Candys vs. Black Rota/spoon wheels... definitely need everyone's opinion on which wheels to put on this project.

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

added pics of brakes thats going on the CRX

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Brakes look good. I think painting the calipers would be nice since they look more like your old rotors than your new ones. Also, 300 NA HP out of a CRX is going to be mean. Definitely look into some good rubber.

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

cool...you think red heat temp paint or black? its a black car...i'm thinking black but interested in some feedback.

I have my black rota slips with 205/50 bfg drag radials which i use for the dyno mostly but will probably use them in the streets...still have to decide which rims to use on the car though.

all black car with flat black wheels?

4drEF

You picked a bunch of heavy wheels for your poll.
The only light wheels are the Rota's.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'm definitely the wrong person to ask about color combos and wheels. I just don't really delve into that sort of stuff. Not too opinionated. I'd just pick whatever wheels you have that can fit the calipers comfortably. All black cars aren't really my thing either. I'd go with some color on the calipers if you have rear discs too. If not, I'd stick with black to avoid high lighting the rear drum set up.

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

lol ok. The rear came originally with disc but the previous owner took them off and replaced with drums before I took the car from him...I have a set of rear discs somewhere around my storage i'll probably have to swap them but the problem might be that they're DC/EG rear discs so i think the camber is off from that on the CRX, right? Goal is to have discs in the rear to run with the 15/16" master cyl.

4drEF, good point on wheel weight, however it doesn't bother me too much, if anythign the heavier wheel will probably me harder to spin too until I actually install and setup the traction control. I care about looks...My old (black) CRX had the black Rotas and Spoons in the rear and I really liked it - will try to find an old pic of it. I somewhat liek the way the Candys look on it, it'll probably be lowered 1/2" or so...all depending how much the aluminum oil pan clearance is from the ground after I shim the motor with washers at the motor mount bolts. I think thats about 1/8" or so lower..without shimming the rear hood bolts it hits the oil cap and valve cover...trying not to shim too much on the hood as well...goal is to have hood look almost stock where people will think it's a single cam or B-series in there...BTW not doing any front velocity stack sticking out the bumper either, might make a 160 degree bend to go from throttle body to under left side chassis rail but the filter and velocity stack is huge so might leave it at top over the tranny if it doesn't clear from the radiator...dont want it sucking in the hot air aroudn the radiator too.

4drEF

Well, in that case, do whatever you like. All of your choices look decent. so just do what you like best. Flip a coin if you can't decide. If you do what we tell you to do, then you will hate it.