92 civic ex 4dr

I have been told that putting a vtec head on a non vtec block increases compression. I know this to be true on the D series but is it accurate on the F series? I did a search all I turned up was how to write in the vtec solenoid and how to do the swap.

GhostAccord

I'm pretty sure that the F22B2 and F22B1 heads have the same combustion chamber volume. So unless you mill the head, simply swapping a VTEC head on a non V block will not raise the compression enough to even notice.

The big difference between the two heads, aside from VTEC, is that the B1 has 2mm larger intake valves.
F22B1 = 34mm Int. & 29mm Exh.
F22B2 = 32mm Int. & 29mm Exh.

92 civic ex 4dr

Ok. That's kind of what I was thinking. How much do you think I can mill off of the head before running into problems with the timing belt slipping?

94 accord typeR

also the F22B1 head has 5 bolts and the F22B2 has 4

accordturb96

the timing belt wont slip. A machinist will be able to determine the thickness you can mill. You wont notice much in just adding compression as it will be minimal. The issue becomes valve/piston clearance. What exactly are you trying to accomplish?

GhostAccord

You can mill the head right down so that there would be no ridge left on the combustion chamber and the belt shouldn't slip with proper tension applied. As mentioned above, piston to valve clearances would be more of a concern with the more meat you remove from the head.

Milling the head really isn't the best way to increase compression anyway. A set of higher compression pistons would be much more reliable and really not that expensive these days.

What bolts are you referring to?

92 civic ex 4dr

Trying to bring compression back up.. I still need to do a leak down test. Just been to busy and honestly. Lazy. 250,xxx miles I should just re build the engine. She's been goods to me. No oil burning either Orr blow by. Just put a head from a 95 on it. I was told that the 95 has bigger combustion chamber's than the 97 head.

accordturb96

The valve seats could be allowing some compression to be wasted but your issue at 250k is the rings and cylinders. Not a bad idea but think of it this way. You push your fists together and they meet in the middle. The top one is strong and tight yet the bottom one is broken and not able to maintain a comparable pressure. The bottom isnt holding up due to age and mileage. Rebuilding them is not a big deal and can be done. If you can find a cheap used block with some sort of warranty I would go that route unless you have a decently priced engine builder or can do the work yourself.

94 accord typeR

sorry i was thinking about the valve cover not the cylinder head

chrisnick

Ghost is correct. The combustion chambers are the same volume, but the B1 has the larger valves. Whether or not this is of benefit with the factory camshaft profile of both engines is debatable. More than likely, it's not. The B1 camshaft is more aggressive(barely) and has a better exhaust manifold. Mainly where the gains are from the B2 to B1, although the B1 head flows MUCH better on both the intake and exhaust sides due to port differences. The B2 has the worst head of the F-series family in terms of flow and potential, but it's really not bad for a stock head and seems like it keeps a pretty decent velocity through the ports. The smaller valve size allows for good torque production, but hinders it's air delivery at higher RPM's. The F22B6 from the Odyssey is the same engine as the F22B2, although it has a different ECU/tuning and the camshaft from the F22A6. It's rated only 5hp less than the F22B1, if that gives you any indication of the 'real' performance advantage of the F22B1... it really isn't much. The F23A1 is a much better option. Lots more torque, the best flowing(as-cast) cylinder head, and a much better intake manifold design.

Can you please stop posting incorrect information. You're really not helping anything.