05AccordGuy

The other night I was sitting in my car for about 10 minutes and when I opened the door to exit the vehicle the alarm began sounding. I tried to get it to stop but I was unable to do so until I completely unplugged the cars battery. The battery in my key fob has been dead for quite some time which I thought may be the problem, but after replacing the batteries in both fobs the LED would not light on either key when pressing buttons.

I attempted to use the valet key to unlock the door manually and was able to do so but once I rehooked the battery the alarm began sounding immediately. I removed the horn relay fuse under the hood and now the alarm doesn't go off when opening doors/the hood, but when I attempt to turn on the vehicle the alarm starts blaring. Does anyone have any suggestions how to resolve this problem? In addition to being annoying as hell I haven't been able to use my car because the alarm is activated with the engine on.

Also when using the key to manually open the door it will only unlock the drivers door, opposed to all 4 when turned twice. The lock/unlock button inside the vehicle on the drivers side is not working when the car is off.

05AccordGuy

Does anyone have any suggestions?

So far I've got the horn and hazard lights to stop by removing the fuses for the horn, hazard, and Back Up ACC. Once I turn the key in the ignition to II or III the alarm is active and the head/brake lights blink even with the engine on. If I reinsert the Back Up ACC fuse the alarm is active even with no key in the ignition (blinking lights, etc.). I really have no idea what's going on with this thing, if anyone could help I'd really appreciate it.

I'm probably going to drive it to the dealer in the morning with my blinking lights and active alarm if I cannot find a resolution.

tony_2018

Did yoou buy this car used?

05AccordGuy

Yes like 5 years ago.

05AccordGuy

I tried reprogramming the keys and it didn't work. I started the vehicle and the immobilizer was still active because I was unable to shift out of park. Tried turning the wheel both ways and it almost sounded like it was going to sputter out and die.

Loughf

I believe under the driver seat is little silver box. if you remove said box, you're removing the alarm.

however, this also resolves in losing the keyless entry as well. so you'll have to use your key to unlock/lock the car.

05AccordGuy

Been unlocking it that way for a long time now anyways so that's not a problem. I'll check out the box in the morning, don't feel like crawling around in the dark.

tech8

1. You can only reprogram the remote transmitters related to keyless entry. You cannot reprogram the keys for the Immobilizer system; generally, that can be done by the dealership with HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).

2. The OEM security alarm system is part of the multiplex integrated control system (MICS). Does the car also have an additional aftermarket security system?

There is no little silver box (alarm) under the driver seat. The keyless entry system is also incorporated with the MICS.

05AccordGuy

1. I was trying to reprogram the keyless entry, haven't used my fobs in a long time due to dead batteries and thought that may solve the problem. Unfortunately it didn't.

2. The system is OEM, nothing aftermarket there.

tech8

You may want to get the battery checked first, the battery charge may be low and causing your issues.

This is how the OEM security system works.

The security alarm system is part of the multiplex integrated control system. The security system is incorporated with the power door locks. When the vehicle is locked with the door key, lock ****, door lock switch, or the remote transmitter, the security system is activated. The system will completely set 15 seconds after the hood, doors, and trunk are closed.

The security system monitors the following signals:

Battery voltage
Door lock **** switches (unlock)
Door switches (any door)
Ignition key switch (turned to ON)
Radio security ground
Security hood switch
Trunk key cylinder switch (lock/unlock)
Trunk latch switch

If any of these switches change from their normal position, (open or closed), the security system reports a violation and sounds the alarm.

Loughf

I'm sorry, I had my years wrong. the 94-97 had a silver box under the driver seat (optional from factory) if you wanted keyless entry/alarm.

I apologize.

05AccordGuy

Thanks for the info. I'll take the battery down to pepboys tomorrow and have it checked. If that isn't it I guess a tow truck will be taking it down to the dealer.

05AccordGuy

Went and picked up another battery for the key fob and was able to get the LED blinking on one, I guess the other battery I had bought was a dud. Tried to reprogram the keyless entry because the car was not responding to the button pressing but it didn't work. I'm guessing because the alarm is already actively going off it won't let me try to reprogram a "new" key.

Kind of lost at this point I have no idea wtf is going on with this thing. Only options I'm seeing are A) Replace the fuses and drive the vehicle about 10 miles to the dealer with the alarm blaring. B) Manually unlock the transmission and drive it to the dealer if the brakes will work without the fuse. C) Have it towed to the dealer although I'd rather not pay 200+ for a tow. D) Blow the car up for insurance money.

Suggestions?

(Not actually considering insurance fraud)

tech8

Did you get the car's battery checked?

05AccordGuy

Battery is good.

So I just replaced the three fuses I had pulled, went to turn it on expecting a barrage of noises and lights and to my great surprise it started as if nothing had happened. Back to normal, no idea what the **** "fixed" it and really I don't even care at this point. Thanks to all of you who helped me out I'm back in the game.

tech8

Probably fixed due to the multiplex integrated control system (MICS) being reset when the battery was pulled for an extended period to bring it to get check, and then battery reconnected.