NIKKOR

For the IDRC pro-am turbo class- what would the estimated set up costs for a car in this class?

Also, how much would annual maintenance cost in this class?
Would going N/A lower the cost or not?

Thank you!

NIKKOR

http://dsportmag.com/browse/tech/dga...ject-ek-pro-am

Something along the lines of this.
Any info would be a huuuuge help.

luck4rmkc

iTrader: (2)

My suggestion would be do not race because on paper you think you can afford it. Race because you love it and figure out how to make money to support your passion.

Tallying up dollars would be enough to make any person who races sick. I would advise you do the opposite of what you are asking. Instead of trying to figure out what it costs to build and maintain a race car you should try not to think about what it costs to build and maintain a race car.

The fact that you are asking tells me you are in it for the wrong reasons anyway...

neonkid

^^^ nailed it right on the head. You can try to estimate on pen and paper but id mark it up another 10-15% of what you think its going to cost.

NIKKOR

I don't earn all that much money in the military.
With a decent estimate to work off of, I'll have an idea of how much I will have to budget in order to do something I enjoy.

What's the "wrong reasons" you are assuming I have?
Earning money from racing? I seriously doubt that I will ever turn a cent of profit at this and I am perfectly fine with that. My motivation for why I want to do this is simple: I like competing, and I like fast cars.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Start small and work your way up. Best bet if you really wanna race is pick a class and build a car around it. You can always upgrade later. the seat time at the lower power levels will oay off later down the road too.

NIKKOR

http://tinyurl.com/o4bqyc4

Those are the rules that I am going off of. I am perfectly cool with taking my time and doing this slow, using second hand parts and the like. None of that bothers me.

All I need is a ball park figure so I can plan this out responsibly.
I would rather NOT dive into this thing head long with out at least a ball park of what the costs that will be involved are.

itsukivr6

competetive pro-am fwd + maintence and traveling for say 10 races from scratch 30-35k can it be done cheaper sure, can it be even cheaper if nothing breaks sure.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Break it down

Long block- $4000-$5000
Intake mani- $200
TB- $150
Fuel rail and injectors- $500
Fuel pumps filters- $400
Turbo mani- $600
Waste gate(s)- $200-400
Turbo- $700-1000
Intercooler- $200-600
Bov and charge pipes- $400
Engine management- $600-1200 (hondata or AEM)
Twin disc clutch- 800
Trans/diff-$1,200
Scatter shield- $150
Axles- $400-1200
Suspension- $800
Traction bar- $200
Slicks/wheels- $600-1100
Roll cage- $2,000 (installed)
Accessories- adjustable FPR, map sensor, boost solenoid, gauges, safety gear - $1000
Tuning/dyno time- spend as much here as you need to. Budget for 3-4hrs.

So I'd say $15,000-$20,000 is your ballpark depending on whether you cage it and how many parts you go cheap on.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

This is more realistic for sure if you're doing things right.

NIKKOR

That's kinda the price range I was suspecting for set up- but is that with new components?

Also, about how much should I anticipate spending annually to keep the car running?

Almtrhb

iTrader: (3)

My reply is in (quotations)

So depending on how you take it... It the price can jump pretty fast... Your lookin in the ranges of 35K to 45k And it dont stop there Hahahaa.... Well hope i can help good luck Sir. And thank you for your service...

Long Block (sounds bout right) $5k
Intake Manifold $350-900)
TB-$300)
Injectors $750 2200ccinjectors) ($150 fuelrail) If using E85

Fuel Pump $750-900 fuelpump) ($260 for pre and post filter)
Turbo Manifold $800 topmount- $950+ foward face)
Wastegate $44-45mm gate $300ea)
Turbo $950-3800 depending on turbo 6766, 7275, 7285, Borg class limit, GTX 42 etc)
BOV $250)

Intercooler-350 to 1000 ebay or core with custom endtanks)
Engine Management $2500-$5500 Aem Infinity to Motec M800)
Clutch $1,100-4700 Comp Twin disc to Tilton Carbon Carbon)
Transmission $1100-6800 Stock to PPG, Albins dogbox)

Axles $800-2800 Insane Shaft to Dss 5.9 to Pro Level)
Rims and Tires $420 M&H front $300 rear) (Rims $800-2000 V2 to Weld or Belak)
Cage $2500-3800 10point cage) Maybe including net and chute
3piece Front end $700-1500) reg to carbon

Plus all the small ****, that adds up too, fab work, oil, fluids, etc....

NIKKOR

I appreciate the honesty, I take it that N/A is no better?

I was planning on a B series if I went turbo.

Almtrhb

iTrader: (3)

Hahaha N/A is a hell of alot cheaper.... And you say your in the military. Are you active, guard or reserve???
Keep in mind if you are Active, the problem with actually getting to events, time off to go race the car, time to prep the car, it takes alot of time away from your days/wkends etc... Maybe just build like a inexpensive 600hp street car or sumthan and take it out crusing here and there...

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

I posted based on my experience waiting for and paying low end on high end parts. Everything on my car I got for the prices I posted. Ie ID 2000's $400 full race pro am top mount - $600 etc. patience can save you literally $10,000 in this game.

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

Price will also depend in how competitive you're trying to be

NIKKOR

I'm not trying to beat Eric Calabrese's VW or anything crazy.

Just enough to have fun and not make a clown of myself.
Winning is great and all, but (I guess this comes from having been a short legged runner for so long) sometimes the biggest joy simply comes from having competed.

NIKKOR

Active for now, I am going to the reserves here shortly.

itspools

I would venture to say that building a competitive NA car is just as expensive as a sfwd one. That's just what I've heard talking to some sfwd guys who have been in the game a while and know racers in both Both the NA and turbo world.

Almtrhb

iTrader: (3)

Ohh yea no doubt, you can save a good amount buying used parts and waiting. Some people arnt that patient to wait or they have the money to buy a new part rather than searching online and dealing with Lowballers or if there part is damaged....

I was just going on the parts that competitive SFWD cars have going on in there car.... So if he wanted to step it up alil bit more 1 day he will know what it takes pretty much....

wickedEG

I was active Navy for 13 years. And trying to build and race a car was so damn hard. Even on shore duty I had work stuff that kept me from finishing and racing the car. Now that I'm out it's a lot easier but building a SFWD car isn't cheap at all. I have more money in my car then I wish to count. You might want to look in to a street class were the max turbo size is a 62mm. But one thing I will tell you from years of building cars is do it right the first time. buy the best part with the money you have so you don't have to re do or buy it twice. Ebay shouldn't always be your first stop. Not saying u can't get good stuff off ebay. But just search and you'll find good deals on good parts.

Universal Magnetic

In the long run, its cheaper to buy a car that is turn key ready. Trust me, there are always part out threads.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Truth.

NAVY AWS

You hit it on the head! Ive been building my car for three years now due to the fact im never home (currently deployed) and it isnt easy doing it from the other side of the world!

wickedEG

It took me so long to build my car that my new set up was already old. I would sell new parts I had to upgrade to the latest and greatest before I even ran the car. Being in the military and building a car is hard. But not saying it can't be done.