Siegs

I'm working on a friend's 1997 Accord 2.2L Vtech.

After the waterpump exploded, I changed the timing belt for him and then it started doing this surging thing... Here's where I'm at...


Symptoms: (it seems all these symptoms started after the water pump went out. the pump sheared and the timing belt went slack. it’s possible that the timing belt jumped a tooth or two.)



-The car warms up very quickly, and then begins surging at idle (only when in park)
-Once warm, the radiator is throwing off a lot of steam, but the cooling fan refuses to come on.
-Car occasionally jumps in RPM’s when downshifting. this could be the same surging that is experienced at idle, but is more likely the transmission struggling to downshift.


Tests performed:
-Compression checks on each cylinder read between 95-100
-Cooling fans turn on when the AC is on, and when I jump the temp switch attached to the thermostat housing.
-Car does not throw any check engine light codes. (since replacing the Idle air Control Valve.)

1.) Replaced Idle air control valve: ($220 part)
I tried simply cleaning this valve, and that didn’t do the trick. With the old valve installed, it continued to throw the check engine light siting a falt with the Idle Air Intake control valve. After replacing that part, it seems to have stopped triggering the check engine light. My researched indicated that this valve is also often to blame with this kind of throttle surging at idle, but it did not resolve that problem.

2.) Replaced Thermostate, installed flushing tee and performed full system coolant flush: ($35 in parts)
-The coolant system was extremely grimy and had a lot of floating gunk, even since the radiator flush i did when I installed the water pump. the bottom of the radiator was almost completely stopped up.

3.) Unclogged and cleaned EGR passageways through exhaust manifold via inspections panel underneath fuel injector assembly.


RESULTS
The surge at idle is still present, but not as pronounced.
The cooling fan isn't coming on, and the radiator is throwing off a good amount of steam... however, the heater works great and the temp gauge is below the half-way mark. (normal running temp)
The car is definitely running better and smoother, despite the surge.
The rattle/noise we were hearing toned down quite a bit as well.

At this point, I'm suspecting a thermal sensor... how do i test those? any other ideas? The car has a TON of miles and the trans is starting to let go, so I'm not looking to spend all my poor friends money on a lost cause. but if you have any quick fix ideas, I'm GAME!

holmesnmanny

When you refill the radiator you should turn the heater control **** to full red. Jack the front of the car up. Crack open about one turn the bleeder bolt on top of the thermostat. Fill radiator until coolant comes out of the bleeder bolt in a steady stream. Close bleeder bolt. Continue filling radiator. Close cap. You're done.

You could first try cracking open the bleeder bolt now after starting the car to see if there is any air in there.

If that still doesnt fix the surge you should tighten the fitv down. There is a link in the faq's at the top of the forum. If that doesnt fix the surge you will need to use carb cleaner and spray around the IM until the idle changes which will indicate youve found the leak. If you did the egr before this started up i would start there.

Easy E 81

My accord Does that too I cleaned the exhaust manifold, new coolant, Iacv, next up fitv let you know how it turns out and good luck

Siegs

Thanks for the input!

Would the FITV affect the cooling fans not running? The car doesn't overheat (according to temp gauge) but the radiation steams up pretty good.

holmesnmanny

crack open the bleeder bolt for a few seconds and see if any air comes out