B Series Swap into EK Hatch HELP NEEDED!
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
B Series Swap into EK Hatch HELP NEEDED!
Okay, so I have a 98 DX hatch that came with a D16Y7. I bought the hatch with intentions of swapping my 98+ spec JDM B18C Type R into it. I thought I had everything I needed, so I started swapping it.
The motor is all bolted into the car, and I figured that I’d use the factory Y7 harness, so I swapped it over to the ITR motor. I extended the wires of the IAT plug, the MAP sensor plug, and one of the O2 sensor plugs. I also ran my own wires for both the knock sensor and the VTEC solenoid. I’m running an OBD2A to OBD1 Rywire jumper harness from the Y7 harness to my chipped P28 ECU.
When I ran the wires for the knock sensor and VTEC solenoid, I spliced them into the Rywire harness using splicing blocks, rather than splicing them into the Y7 plug.
I buttoned everything up and went to fire the car up. The car fired up, but the idle was super choppy, and didn’t last for long before it stalled out. I started it a couple more times and the same thing happened. I kept the car idling a couple of times by keeping my foot on the gas a little bit. If I put too much pressure on the gas pedal, the engine chokes and stalls out. If I press the gas pedal with very slight pressure, the idle will continue to raise until redline, but on the way there it continuously chokes. My CEL is also on, but I don’t have an OBD2 scanner to see what it is.
I pulled this motor out of my EG hatch, and it was running perfectly fine, so I know that it has nothing to do with the motor itself. My guess is that I wired something wrong in the harness, so here’s my question:
Is there a direct plug and play harness for my application that I could buy? I would rather buy another harness than continue to hack up harnesses and wire plugs in myself.
Thanks in advance!
- DJ
The motor is all bolted into the car, and I figured that I’d use the factory Y7 harness, so I swapped it over to the ITR motor. I extended the wires of the IAT plug, the MAP sensor plug, and one of the O2 sensor plugs. I also ran my own wires for both the knock sensor and the VTEC solenoid. I’m running an OBD2A to OBD1 Rywire jumper harness from the Y7 harness to my chipped P28 ECU.
When I ran the wires for the knock sensor and VTEC solenoid, I spliced them into the Rywire harness using splicing blocks, rather than splicing them into the Y7 plug.
I buttoned everything up and went to fire the car up. The car fired up, but the idle was super choppy, and didn’t last for long before it stalled out. I started it a couple more times and the same thing happened. I kept the car idling a couple of times by keeping my foot on the gas a little bit. If I put too much pressure on the gas pedal, the engine chokes and stalls out. If I press the gas pedal with very slight pressure, the idle will continue to raise until redline, but on the way there it continuously chokes. My CEL is also on, but I don’t have an OBD2 scanner to see what it is.
I pulled this motor out of my EG hatch, and it was running perfectly fine, so I know that it has nothing to do with the motor itself. My guess is that I wired something wrong in the harness, so here’s my question:
Is there a direct plug and play harness for my application that I could buy? I would rather buy another harness than continue to hack up harnesses and wire plugs in myself.
Thanks in advance!
- DJ
#5
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: B Series Swap into EK Hatch HELP NEEDED!
You most likely swapped the MAP sensor and TPS plugs around. Or VTEC and CTS plugs around. They're the same plug. They plug into either sensor. It's diabolical.
Someone suggested that maybe you didn't do the 2 wire IAC conversion. That's a good suggestion. Did you rewire it?
Map/tps is what's more likely since u made a VTEC subharness. The IAC is 2nd most likely because the problem persists even if you floor it.
The MAP is on top of the throttle body. TPS on the side.
Unplug the MAP. Mark that connector (A) with a sharpie.
Unplug the TPS. Mark that connector (B)
Connect connector (A) into TPS.
Connect (B) into the MAP.
Fire it up.
Hollerrrrrr
Someone suggested that maybe you didn't do the 2 wire IAC conversion. That's a good suggestion. Did you rewire it?
Map/tps is what's more likely since u made a VTEC subharness. The IAC is 2nd most likely because the problem persists even if you floor it.
The MAP is on top of the throttle body. TPS on the side.
Unplug the MAP. Mark that connector (A) with a sharpie.
Unplug the TPS. Mark that connector (B)
Connect connector (A) into TPS.
Connect (B) into the MAP.
Fire it up.
Hollerrrrrr
#6
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: B Series Swap into EK Hatch HELP NEEDED!
It seems you have a OBD1 ECU so you can't pull OBD2 codes. Try the paper clip method detailed in the sticky thread about CEL's. You'll need to do it with the car running.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bloody Hatch
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
2
09-11-2012 12:29 PM
No VDUBS here in206
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
3
01-15-2009 08:03 AM
Jap_Spec_Imports
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
11-22-2007 11:33 AM