19dabeast85

Wife's dd 1999 CRV overheated about a year ago blowing out the gasket between 1&2 per compression tests.....it still drove perfectly fine so I postponed any major work such as timing belt, coolant flush, etc. Just did oil changes.

Well in the last 2 months it has started smoking alot from a stoplight after idling (white smoke=coolant). I purchased a spare block to have on hand and planned to rebuild it and swap it in in mid March when I'd be home with our newborn-to-be.

Well, Monday my wife calls and said she heard a POP and the engine immediately died.....we have roadside with Progressive so had it towed back to the house. I check when I got home and sure enough, the timing belt snapped. I was hoping for another month's worth of life out of it but with the extra stress of a blown HG plus about 140k miles on that t-belt it's to be expected.

So I tore apart the extra b20z which supposedly has only 110k on it.......it has all Honda OEM t-belt, water pump, cam seals, tensioner, etc so I think I got a good one. Plus, the cylinder bores look great with very visibly hashing. That being said, OE is not where this block is headed.

I'm taking the block and head to the machine shop tomorrow. Basic VJ & resurface on the head. Block will be bored to 84.5mm and I'm running YCP 11:1 pistons. I already have the pistons with ARP rod bolts installed I picked up a year ago on ebay. The machine shop will bore & hone & surface the block and measure all my journals so I can order the correct Honda bearings.

The kicker? I plan to monitor o2 with AEM wideband and run this setup on the stock ecu....we'll see!

I will install an OBX rtawd header but leave the cams stock FOR NOW to see how the ecu handles this setup. If it handles it really well I'll upgrade to Crower Stg1 cams in the future.

Will keep you posted as this moves along, going to be a few weeks before I gather all the parts for reassembly. Plus, I'll post pics of the old motor after I remove the head to see what all damage was done from running for a year on a blown hg plus popping the t-belt.

Everybody likes pics so here's where I stand right now with the replacement block torn down:






NEW Pistons with rods & ARP studs!:



Nice hash marks with no block cracks between 3&4 as is somewhat common for stressed B-series!







Nice and golden with no sludge:



Top end on bench:



Valvetrain in great condition:



Nice and golden here too!:




Previous owner didn't believe in fuel additive obviously and this engine probably had a malfunctioning PCV valve, gross intake ports:

HatchVX

Bump to see this project.

ludesrv

OBX is junk. I wouldn't buy their header in my opinion. But good luck with build!

The JDM B20 header is better flowing then the USDM counter part. I noticed this factory upgrade when I did my JDM engine swap when my stock B20 died. Good luck with build!

19dabeast85

OBX is the ONLY option for us AWD CRV guys......but I agree they're not the best. The tiny stock piece is a severe limit for this motor though and I am not looking to cut/bend/weld a good quality b20 header to get around the rtawd output at the tranny so yeah, OBX it is.

19dabeast85

Got my report from Cruzin Performance, injectors cleaned up great and all flow within 1% of each other! Should get them back by the end of this week.

Machine shop has the block and head ready for pickup! I had them mic all the bearing journals with the resulting total gaps:

Main 1: 0.1580"
Main 2: 0.1580"
Main 3: 0.1588"
Main 4: 0.1580"
Main 5: 0.1577"

With a target of .0015" clearance on the mains except # 3 @ .0017", I'm getting RED bearings for the 4 and PINK for journal # 3.


Rods total gap:

Rod 1: 0.1200"
Rod 2: 0.1193"
Rod 3: 0.1192"
Rod 4: 0.1193"

Targeted clearance is .0015" with no worries if it goes a bit more, but not allowing it any less than .0014". I'm getting BROWN for #1, YELLOW for the other 3.



SO, I'll be ordering bearings asap and picking up the block and head HOPEFULLY Friday. Will be plastigauging to verify final clearances before assembly!



I have ARP rod bolts on stock rods....any pointers on what to torque them to?

OneBadTurboCRV

Most likely you will be running lean on your new engine. The stock computer doesn't adjust as much as you think - but hey, it is worth a shot I guess. For the ARP rod bolts you should be using a stretch gauge to install them. If not, whatever your machine shop torqued them to otherwise their measurements for oil clearances WILL be off.

tony_2018

With the wideband in place what are you basicly looking for when running the stock ecu?

19dabeast85

Good to note, I will be sure to ask them what they torqued them to. I understand the length is the best way to torque them but without that precise of equipment, a specific torque will suffice...especially for an oem redline crv motor!


Making sure the ecu is able to control AFR during open and closed loop/safety.


I plan to retard the ecu fully on initial startup to increase safety a little. I will likely be programming an AEM FIC on this crv and since the FIC can only retard timing, not advance it, I will fully advance the dizzy then use the FIC to retard it where needed.

19dabeast85

Got the block and head back from the shop. Polished crank looks great.

Interesting to note. My block is a b20b, but with the chambered intake manifold, and p3f pistons, but the 1.327" (taller) intake camshaft lobes........what do I have here the jdm b20b 8.8:1 motor?

Anyway, doesn't really matter since I'm using the YCP pistons but thought it was interesting.

19dabeast85

Still can't figure out this block...weird...as I stated it's a B20b block, with p3f stamped on back of block and pistons were p3f. But it has a knock sensor plus the b20z chambered manifold.

My oem bearings finally are coming in today so I will be able to plastigauge to verify final clearances. After that I'm waiting on ARP studs to install the head and begin complete assembly. Today I have to go finish pulling the blown motor from the crv. Carnage pics will be soon to follow.

Question on my "new" block: Does this look like it's been surfaced and if not does the surface look adequate for HG sealing? No pits noticeable to touch or eyes but significant staining....not sure they even surfaced it as I asked. They may have only verified it is flat.






More pics of block/crank/head:







Never know these have 240k miles of gasoline through them! Thanks to Cruzin Performance for cleaning & refreshing them!

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

So since you sent them out and got them tested, what were the flow numbers on those injectors?

19dabeast85

Here you go:




On another note, spotted this on one of the pistons, doesn't look good. Anyone seen this on YCP pistons before and is there any way to fix it?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Eww that's a pretty big casting void. I would contact the seller and see if you have any recourse.

www.megameet.org

Hey while your into it, you should check how much knife edging the crank is. Saves a lot of weight and rotational mass

19dabeast85

Well, everything is already back from the shop plus....this is going back into my wife's dd crv. I want it to be STRONG but she's not going to be revving the crap out of it, especially with the auto tranny. So while I understand the definite benefits of knife edging I don't see it being a very valuable mod worth the cost and increased potential for harmonics damage on a dd just to gain a few ponies.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

$50:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-98401/overview/



THIS. For a drag motor that is going to see MAYBE 1000 miles in its sevice life, this might be a valuable mod. For anything that needs to be reliable, no way. There's a reason the itr cranks are heavier than a gs-r crank.

OneBadTurboCRV

That tool you recommended will need to be modified to work on a B-series rod bolt. The spring has to be cut down otherwise you can't even get it on the bolt. I actually own that same one is how I know, ended up buying the ARP one that has a larger throat.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

That's good to know. I actually have the Summit branded one, I went to reference it and saw that the above one was a little cheaper and looked a little nicer. I can vouch for the usefulness of the Summit one:

19dabeast85

Stretch torquing is definitely the best method but using ARP lube is also a very good and still very accurate method and that's what I used. The lube came today so I was able to finish up the bottom end:

I determined that the hole in the piston isn't very deep and shouldn't cause any issues. It's just going to fill with carbon over time which is no problem..
















Finally pulled the head off the old motor, what a mess!:

19dabeast85

The ARP studs came in today so I got a little bit more done tonight!

NOTICE instructions with the ARP studs state "torque to 80 ft. lbs". This SHOULD say "torque UP TO 80 ft. lbs."!!!!!! This is extremely important for us b20 guys. ARP does not research each application and their directions state the maximum torque the specific fastener is rated for (in this case 7/16" is rated for 80 ft. lbs.).

If you torque your stock-sleeved b20 to 80 ft. lbs. you can pretty much guarantee you'll warp the cylinders out of round UNLESS the cylinders were bored&honed with a torque plate at 80 ft. lbs.......which nobody does with an open deck design like ours! So stick to stock 63 ft. lbs. or very close to there.

The factory manual says use two steps, once at 22 ft.lbs., and final at 63 ft.lbs. 22 to 63 seemed like a large jump so I torqued the head in 3 steps at 20, 40, and final of 65 ft. lbs.

At 500 miles I will change the oil&filter, adjust the valves and re-torque the studs back to 65 ft. lbs. since evidently head studs like to loosen after they're initially run under operating conditions. When I change the oil at 3500 miles I will again check valve lash and torque the studs. After that I'll be checking studs at every valve adjustment on 20k intervals.

19dabeast85

I've gotten a little more done randomly this week. Valve train installed, timing belt, just did valve lash adjustment tonight. It's ready to be installed tomorrow!








Empty nest degreased and ready!!




Gotta love the Gen1 table!




Bought a cheapo new driver's lower mount and filled it with window weld, we'll see how long it'll last but I'm sure it'll be more than the couple weeks that sorry rubber-spider crap-of-a-mount normally lasts!






Just waiting





I rebuilt the tranny just under a year ago and noticed then that my converter stall rpm was a bit high (~300 rpms high) so I'm putting in a new rebuilt converter with the new engine. Came from Florida Torque Converters. They sell on ebay......yeah I know, but I called and talked to them, very friendly knowledgeable and have a great warranty and feedback so I'm confident in the purchase!

dogbiscuit

I personally love ebay for purchasing parts.

TheGageinator

looking good man. i will probably need to do this soon..

19dabeast85

It's great for some stuff!

Thanks, it's nice knowing I have a brand new motor!





Got the motor put in today and it purrrrsss!!! I let it warm up for about 15 minutes then went out to seat the rings. I did about 10 WOT 2k-5k in first gear. Then about 10 3k-6k in 2nd gear. Came home and checked the plugs:

Cyl 1:




Cyl 2:




Cyl 3:




Cyl 4:




Looks a hair lean but not horrible. What are your thoughts?

19dabeast85

Here's a video of the UEGO, shows I'm running a little lean, researching best way to correct this now. Could possibly simply increase fuel pressure. Could also run an AEM FIC....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vI78V...ature=youtu.be