S u b Z e r o

I am NOT trying to spend a lot of money so will be going the cheapest way possible. I do not know much about swapping as this will be my first time. The car the swap will be on is a 1997 Civic LX Automatic and I would like to get this parts list correct before I do anything. I did read all the threads above. The reason for the swap is "the crank shaft bearing is causing knocking within the engine" so thought I might as well just swap due to the fact that the price will be high.
Engine I am planning is a B20 please someone explain low intake vs high intake I have been looking and found nothing of use. Which is preferd? Nor can I find anything about B20 swaps really more B18s. Also, is it worth to put in a little more and get a B18?

Tranny, as a B20 wont work a B16/B18 will people say do NOT get the RS/LS as the gears are shitty. Get a GS or GSR is correct?

Engine swap:

Mounts for engine/tranny:
Rear T-bracket - 99-00 Si
Mount set or do I only need one mount I see this debated.
Don't care for AC so don't need Del Sol mount?

Shift Linkage:
99-00 Si, 94-01 Integra

Axles:
Any B series axles? 99-00 Si, 94-01 Integra

Ecu:
No idea, what will go with this at all.

Harness:
You can just use the stock one as far as I know.

5 Speed Swap:

Clutch: Oem is cheapest and best apparently. (Should be resurfaced always before install?)

Flywheel: Shown in the 5speed swap thread.

Mounts: Says that you need the upper tranny bracket from an manual.
Rear tranny mount will this be included in the set from the engine swap?

Manual Pedal Assembly: Seems like hell to find one even on eBay.
Shift Linkage: Same as above in engine swap.

Clutch master: No idea, do I need a manual one?

VSS: Wdf is this?

Starter: As above. Part#: 95701-10100-08

Axles: The B series Axles from swap?

Anything else or suggestions thanks guys, I have searched to my best to find answers but nothing if you do find a thread with an answer please link me.

aavtec

Stay with the b20 its a factory bored out b18 (81mm vs 84mm) everything else is the same, just use a b18 manifold because the crv one is to tall for your hood to close. Use a ls transmission if your sure the crv one wont fit. You can use a itr/gsr trans if your gonna track the car. For dd i think the ls would be better. For mounts I think only rear t-bracket and transmission top mount is different. Not sure but you may need to reweld your transmission mount or get a aftermarket auto to manual mount. If you have a/c right now you can retain it by using a crv a/c bracket (civic and crv a/c compressor are the same I'm using one on my gsr block right now with d16 compressor). For the pedal assembly, clutch resever and hydraulic lines i say best bet is junk yard. Get new master and slave cylinders, vss=vehicle speed sensor for your speedometer it goes into your transmission. You can use a integra non vtec (p75) ecu or tune an obd1, maybe a crv one too. This site civic page has all info needed for your swap in the "sticky" including how to modify your harnesses from auto to manual. I would recommend getting your engine from hmotorsonline.com , call them first, they have tons of honda stuff around their warehouse and could likely knock off alot of items from your list.

S u b Z e r o

Thanks for the help bro, I'd like to bump for some more opinions.

Caoboy

Here's a great thread on the engine swap, itself.

http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...n-vtec-117703/

You really need to do more research than just going *****-in to a swap like this.

We spent about 2500 swapping my brothers blown b18a (auto) to a B20b manual, and that was with getting really good deals on manifolds and transmissions.

To answer your questions: (bold)


Tranny, as a B20 wont work a B16/B18 will people say do NOT get the RS/LS as the gears are shitty. Get a GS or GSR is correct?
As long as you get a manual LS transmission, B16, GSR, Type R, it doesn't matter. Long gears in the LS transmission, that is all that is 'shitty'. IF you aren't racing, or want to do it cheaper, just get an LS transmission. B16 has the shortest gears, and its a pain if you do commuting. GSR/Type R is where my money is at on a transmission. Longer gears than the B16, but shorter than LS transmissions.

Engine swap: B18 (LS) and B20 are the same engines, just the B20 is bored out to a 2.0 liter. This means you can use the LS manifolds to complete your swap. You're going to want to do this if you live in CA and need to BAR it anyways. Just get your long block and save the intake manifold, you can use sensors and little parts off of it if you need them for the LS intake manifold. You'll definitely need an LS fuel rail to swap as it is different on a B20.

Mounts for engine/tranny:
Rear T-bracket - 99-00 Si yes
Mount set or do I only need one mount I see this debated. not sure for the EK, but on my brother's car, we were able to buy an Innovative swap mount for his transmission mount.
Don't care for AC so don't need Del Sol mount? i think you may be talking about the ac compressor bracket/mount, and if you aren't using AC, then no, you don't need it

Shift Linkage:
99-00 Si, 94-01 Integra [b] use an SI shift linkage if you can find one, the integra can hit the trans tunnel, which means some grinding away will need to be done to the transmission tunnel to alleviate that.

Axles:
Any B series axles? 99-00 Si, 94-01 Integra whatever halfshaft you get will determine which axles you need.

Ecu:
No idea, what will go with this at all. OBD2 P75 ecu

Harness:
You can just use the stock one as far as I know. a little extending will need to be done to the IAT, and it is talked about in that thread I linked

5 Speed Swap:

Clutch: Oem is cheapest and best apparently. (Should be resurfaced always before install?) Get an exedy replacement clutch kit, that will come with the clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearings. only a flywheel gets resurfaced

Flywheel: Shown in the 5speed swap thread. you'll need to get a new flywheel, obviously. we bought a replacement flywheel from Autozone, and it came with a pilot bearing already pressed in (that was a bonus )

Mounts: Says that you need the upper tranny bracket from an manual.
Rear tranny mount will this be included in the set from the engine swap? again, not sure on this for an EK

Manual Pedal Assembly: Seems like hell to find one even on eBay. get it from a junk yard, we tore out a whole pedal assembly from a manual integra, it was cheap, and you can 'practice' tearing apart your dash (if needed) to get to the pedals and get them out.

Shift Linkage: Same as above in engine swap.

Clutch master: No idea, do I need a manual one? yes, there is only a manual clutch master for a manual clutch. You'll also need the hardline for your clutch as well. Probably best to just tear this all out of a donor from the junkyard when you get your pedals. It's easy enough to change out the master (and cheap) if you need to if it's bad. You'll also need to get pictures to reference where to drill the holes for mounting and installing the clutch master cylinder.

VSS: Wdf is this? Vehicle speed sensor. I don't think it's different from auto/manual. easiest way is to look up part numbers.

Starter: As above. Part#: 95701-10100-08

Axles: The B series Axles from swap?

Anything else or suggestions thanks guys, I have searched to my best to find answers but nothing if you do find a thread with an answer please link me.
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You'll want to change out things like fuel filters, change the timing belt/water pump now, while the engine is out of the car and on a stand, do a valve adjustment, and change all gaskets/seals now.

Also, do little things like clean the IACV, IAT, etc. Common issues that cause idle problems. It's a lot easier to do it while you have the chance.

Find a factory service manual for an integra (NOT HAYNES/CHILTON, those are not FSM's) so you'll have all the info needed to change the above services while the engine is sitting there.


Good luck, it's a lot to learn/do, but just remember it's only bolts, you take them out, you put them back in, and nothing should blow up.