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fuel/temp gauge topped out after cluster removal

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Old 10-25-2013, 02:51 AM
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Default fuel/temp gauge topped out after cluster removal

I pulled the cluster on my 95 Accord EX the other day to fix my faulty speedometer by baking the speedometer board in the oven on 385 for 10 minutes which is a common way to fix computer motherboards also
my question is now that I put everything back together speedometer works fine but now my temperature gauge and fuel gauge are topped out and do not move. Has anybody run into this problemor know a way to fix it I don't believe that it would be the sending unit sInce they worked fine before I took it apart
I only baked the speedometer bored didn't even touch the other ones I'm completely stumped
Old 10-27-2013, 05:24 AM
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Default Re: fuel/temp gauge topped out after cluster removal

Somewhere you are grounding those two.....which is a bad thing as full ground to them for more that a few seconds will "kill them". Does this happen when you turn the key to on/pos II or only after starting the engine?

C1 for fuel and B9 for temp is where you need to start.
Old 10-27-2013, 01:54 PM
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Default Re: fuel/temp gauge topped out after cluster removal

Are you sure you did not touch any of the other screws that attach the fuel and temp gauges?

On the fuel gauge there is one wire that is attached to a plastic plug and completes its circuits via an attachment screw.



That cap will spin and break the wire. Verify that that tiny strand is not broken.
Old 10-28-2013, 05:56 AM
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Default Re: fuel/temp gauge topped out after cluster removal

Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE
Are you sure you did not touch any of the other screws that attach the fuel and temp gauges?

On the fuel gauge there is one wire that is attached to a plastic plug and completes its circuits via an attachment screw.



That cap will spin and break the wire. Verify that that tiny strand is not broken.
Also, note that the gauge gets it's signals thru the bolts. So, if any bolt is missing or not properly fastened the gauge won't work OK.
Old 10-28-2013, 07:10 AM
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Default Re: fuel/temp gauge topped out after cluster removal

Im not sure what i did to em but im just gonna go to the junkyard and grab some new ones. I have looked at everything you have mentioned and more.
Old 11-01-2013, 07:26 PM
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I replaced both gauges with some junkyars gauges. The coolant temp is working fine but the gas gauge is still topping out. Is it possible that i did something to the sending unit? My next step is to get the actual board from the back of the cluster from the junkyard and try that. Do i have to get the circuit board from a manual or will the auto one work?
Old 11-01-2013, 09:29 PM
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I guess i should add the whole story. I unscrewed every gauge in order to pull the large board off the back then removed the board from the back of the speedo and repaired it. I then put everything back together. I made sure that i didnt turn the screws too hard as i didnt want to break anything. I was aware of the small wire connections on the gauges so was careful putting the screws back in. The speedo and tach worked fine but the temp and fuel gauge were pegged.
I replaced the gauges and the coolant one works fine but the fuel is still pegged. I have tried 4 different fuel gauges all except one do the same exact thing. The one didnt move at all so i would say its broke.

I have looked over the board and everything looks good. All the solder joints and resistors look fine. There are no breaks in the printed areas of the board. I have checked all fuses under the hood and under the dash.
I have not tested the sending unit as i dont know if it would be the problem since it worked fine before removal.
I am looking for ideas on what else to do. Im pretty sure that the yellow/blue wire plugging into the cluster is the signal wire for the fuel. Is there a way i can test that wire for a certain voltage range? Any certain part of the board/certain resistor i should look at? Its driving me insane as it worked fine before and now doesnt.
If i have to test the sending unit how do i do that.
also as i said before if i get a different circuit board for the back of the cluster does it have to be from a manual or will an auto one work also?
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