crazyhouse2011

I read the sticky on FITV removal and cleaning, and I got the hose off and the 2 bolts on the intake boot side, but there's a third one and it's hard to reach, because there is a coolant line right beneath it. I used a socket wrench with a 10mm socket, and I finally got it to latch on, but I couldn't crank it. Am I supposed to take the whole intake manifold off like in the sticky, or is there something I am missing. Help would be appreciated, thanks.

D16Z6.

crazyhouse2011

I have used a hammer to try to shock the FITV and loosen the bolt, but I'm afraid I am gonna round the bolt If i keep this up.

doctorake

So there is a sticky on it but you are not following it correctly?

crazyhouse2011

In the sticky he shows the entire intake manifold removed "so you can see everything easier", but doesn't actually say how to remove that third bolt without taking off the manifold. I'm not in the mood for messing with seized nuts and 30 million vaccuum lines. I'm getting the third one off, it's a pain. I'm just not gonna put it back in when I reinstall everything. I'm not even sure how I would to be honest.

crazyhouse2011

Never mind, I got the little bugger out.

TO ALL THOSE WITH THE SAME QUESTION, JUST USE A SMALL 1/4 DRIVE SOCKET WRENCH WITH A TEN MM SOCKET. IT WILL TAKE SOME PATIENCE, AND A SMALL EXAMINATION MIRROR THAT YOU CAN BUY AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORE OR HARDWARE STORE, BUT EVENTUALLY IT WILL COME OFF.

Mods, please close the thread.

crazyhouse2011

Wait hang on. I broke one of the screws that you were supposed to unscrew. It was siezed and the head just twisted off. It doesn't look like there are any major cracks or anything, but is it gonna make a vacuum leak?

JuggerNaut-CTR

I dont really see how you had a issue with the mounting bolts and why you wouldnt just put it back in if you were able to get it out...I would imagine you would possibly leak some coolant if all three arent torqued down.

If its that much of a pain for you, maybe you should just take the throttle body off and do it right.

JuggerNaut-CTR

Coolant controls the valve inside to open or close...not vacuum.

Now you need to continue taking the other one off...getting the stud(s) out, and replaceing the screws.........

crazyhouse2011

Put it on. Idle is fine, but coolant was spraying everywhere. Shut the muhfugga off and am now getting a ride to Ace Hardware for a screw extractor Why did I take on this project?

strategy400

Hopefully you allotted the obligatory 10X the amount of time to complete the job.

crazyhouse2011

Ha ha yes, just tried a screw extractor and that thing got fucked, so now I'm going to autozone to get a new part. **** this DIY ****. Whoever built these cars needed to put antisieze in the threads of every bolt. Damn...

strategy400

I think it's the nut behind the tool.

crazyhouse2011

Or maybe that a screw subjected to searing heat, freezing cold, pouring rain, and dirt and dust was not going to come out no matter what? Regardless, I bought a new part and it's being shipped here at this very moment. thread/

crazyhouse2011

At autozone when I ordered the part the guy said there were 2 different FITVs, one for an automatic and one for a manual. He said they look the same on the outside, but he wasn't sure if they used different mechanisms. He only carried the manual, so I ordered that. Problem is, my car was a factory automatic, and a previous owner did the full (and correct) swap. So is there really a difference? I really can't think of a reason why.