crazyhouse2011

I have looked ALL over google, youtube, and automotive forums. I keep getting the same explanation for how to use the brake spring pliers, but it confuses me. Yes, it seems fairly simple, but I don't know what all the parts inside the drum are called. They keep talking about anchor pins, return springs, etc etc. I actually have opened my drum brake to replace the springs, because they are rusted, as well as that U shaped clamp that holds the shoes to the back of the drum, but I am not sure how to use this tool that I ordered.

IF you could please, I also need a list of precautions for doing this myself, i.e. don't do this or this will happen. My main concern is if I remove that U shaped clamp, the shoe will slide around inside the drum, and possibly pop out! And I don't know how to adjust the brakes either, so I don't wanna F*** myself.

Thanks.

crazyhouse2011

Does anybody have a clue what's going on?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I've honestly never owned a pair and have gotten by just fine. Just remove the shoes and pop the springs off, and then put it all back together with the fresh parts. Once you get through the first side it will make sense and the other side will go just fine.

MAD_MIKE

There are a few types of drum spring pliers, however most of the generic ones are designed more for use on American/Bendix type rear drum brake systems. Not too different from Honda or other non US brands, but the pliers tend to be a bit larger and more robust than needed when using on an Import. The sprigs are larger and have a higher tension.
I'm guessing you have this type?


The end with the hook on the tip is used for removong and installing the springs like so...


Usually you would close the pliers so as to keep a proper grip on the spring.

And the end of the pliers is used to remove springs from the anchor pin.


But on imports usually there isn't an anchor pin, but a block that is riveted on where the ends of the shoes rest against.
Take everything off in the order you removed it and position it on the ground in a way that it will be the same as if it were on the backing plate.
This might help too, '95 Civic?


If you are merely replacing springs you can probably get away with doing them one by one, however if they are layered on top of each other then you will have to disassemble.

When removing drum shoes, remove the one that is NOT attached to the parking brake cable. This will make it easier.

When using the pliers, wear safety goggles. These springs have tremendous stored energy in them. A socket and extension can be used to remove the spring tension from the U clips so that you can rotate the pins a 1/4 turn to remove the shoe. Clean any parts that will be reused in a mixture of simple green and water. Verify that the self/automatic adjuster is well greased(copper anti-seize) and not worn. If the teeth are worn they will not catch on the self adjuster lever. After reassembling everything prior to drum installation do a gross adjustment on the brakes. If the drum can slide on and off easily, it needs adjusting. If the drum slides on easy but does not come off as easily then you are close enough.
Backing up and stepping on the brakes a few times will help adjust the shoes out properly.

crazyhouse2011

Thank you! Very helpful! I like this guy! Yeah, so I had my buddy help me replace those U clips. They were so rusted out! I took a picture of them after I removed them.

I then took a picture of the drum afterwards.

Those things were a pain to get back on! We had to use all 4 of our hands to manage it, one to hold the shoe, one to hold the screwdriver I used to push the U clamp back far enough for the pin to go through it, one to use the needlenose to twist the pin, and one to hold the clamp in place so it wouldn't turn when you twisted the pin!

So you said the auto adjuster will fix any mistakes I made adjusting it? Because when I slid the drum back over it it was almost impossible, so I adjusted it pretty far and it slid over easy. Thanks.

MAD_MIKE

You will want to have the gross adjustment pretty close to optimal.
If the adjuster is screwed all the way in the shoes will never properly grab the drum and most likely never properly adjust.
If the drum slides on easy but the shoes grab the drum when you try to take it off then you are pretty close. If the drum easily comes off then you will need to open the adjuster out more. This can take a few minutes of finagling the drum on and off but in the end the drums will be adjusted tighter and giving you a better pedal. Or you will have to futz with a drum brake spoon...


And getting to the adjuster can be a PITA.


Did you replace the shoes or just the hardware?
Typically when new shoes are installed the thicker lining will push the piston cups into the bore where they have not traveled for quite some time. There may be corrosion and crud creating a rough surface, this will cause a leak.
If you did replace the shoes, pickup a set of new wheel cylinders as well.
You will have to get back in there at a later date if they start to leak.

A handy tool to have when installing the shoe hold down pins and clips is the bugger in the middle.


It is similar to the socket trick I mentioned but has windows cut into it so you can see where the pin is and how much more it needs to be rotated.

crazyhouse2011

I'm getting back up in the drums here one more time to replace the springs, so I can adjust the brakes as necessary. I did notice the handbrake traveled a lot more than when i got it back from the dealership. Yes, I have replaced the drums and the shoes, but not anything else, so i bougt a spring kit at autozone for 10 bucks to put in myself cuz they look bad.