LeavingOnAJet

Very new to this forum community and have scoured different threads, tried different suggestions for similar problems and am ended up with no relief. It started out that car would idle very rough when engine is cold and first started, I pumped the gas pedal and it leveled out and ran fine. This happened for 2 days. Since then, to get it to run you have to keep cranking and pumping the gas for maybe 30 seconds, then is a very rough idle and will die if you don't take the RPMs very high, but it does level out after a minute or so. It drives perfectly, no loss of power or stalling but when I stop at stop signs or so, it idles at 1600RPM. Never drops below that at any time. Things I've done: replaced whole distributor, removed IACV and cleaned with carb cleaner and toothbrush, removed top plate on FITV and screwed the inside round part down until it wasn't loose but not really tight, removed air intake and cleaned throttle body (as much as I could fit my hand into) with carb cleaner and toothbrush/soft rag, replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, removed coolant temp sensor on thermo housing and cleaned, removed air boost valve thing and it looked to be fine to me, replaced PCV hose and valve, inspected all vacuum lines inside control box. I'm stuck at this point. F22A1 256k Arizona and it is summer so it is somewhat hot outside. Haven't tried adjusting any of the idle screws or anything of that sort, just cleaning things and replacing. Any advice would help, I can't figure it out.

holmesnmanny

Are you aware that the purpose of the fitv is to idle the car high until the car warms up and until the hot coolant closes the fitv ?

Your high idle upon startup is completely normal.

The second issue of the car idling funny upon a cold startup could be a simple tuneup issue or it could be the "coolant temperature sensor" being bad.

To test, use a multimeter on the ohms setting and test for ohms across the two pin sensor after disconnecting the connector that is located underneath the distributor next to the one pin sensor that is next to it.

It should read 2000 - 2500 ohms when the car is completely cold and 180 - 250 when the car is completely and totally warmed up.