98PAITR

After installing a new master cylinder my brake pedal was engaging low to the floor. A friend was helping me with the problem and turned the brake pedal push rod by loosening the pedal height locknut and just turning the rod with plyers without loosening any of the adjustment nuts. The adjustment nuts turned with the rod. This fixed the problem for a little, however because it was not done the correct way by the rod will move around throwing it out of adjustment.

I found this link http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...djustment.html on adjusting the pushrod. This is the correct way to adjust the push rod. I want to adjust mine the correct way so that my brakes stay where I set them. However, the adjustment nut (see pic below) that was not supposed to be turned was already turned with the rod by my friend. I'm not sure where to turn the nut to to start in the correct place. I thought that if I tightened it the nut would lock against the booster but this is not correct it just keeps spinning. Where should the nut be to start with?

Any help is appreciated. I'd like to get this problem fixed so that I feel comfortable driving the car.

YuckyCorpse

take a CHEAP INEXPENSIVE closed end wrench and cut the end of it off so it will fit on the special nut. i believe its a 14. the other is a 17.

I just did this and I didnt use any special tools.

what you need to do is actually loosen the nuts, rotate them counter clock wise "that should decrease pedal travel before the pushrod touches the MC". try 1mm at a time. be extremely careful, if you go too far the brakes will drag when they heat up. It happened to me "they didnt lock but they were engaging by them self". Make sure when test driving you are close to home and not on busy streets.

It seems scary and intimidating, but its really not even that bad. I had mine adjusted to my liking after 2 trys. if your brakes start dragging, just rotate it clockwise a little until you get it right. its not good to drive with the brakes engaged though!

It really helps braking performance. Before, my brakes wouldnt even lock up no matter how hard I tried. and the brakes didnt start to engage until the pedal was almost to the floor. After replacing all my brake components "pads, calipers, rotors, MC the pedal felt the same and the brakes had no stopping power. After adjusting the pushrod my brakes feel 100x better

98PAITR

^I did this. The problem is the first time I did this my friend was helping and he turned the rod, locknut, and adjusting nut all together. This made the brakes a lot better. They drug a little then I turned it back and they were perfect. The problem is it doesn't stay this way.

I think it's because we didn't break the nuts free, just turned the whole assembly. I made the special tools today and broke the lock nut free of the adjusting nut.

I just don't know where to begin with the adjusting nut since its not supposed to turn and I already turned it. Should it snug down to the booster? Or should it just spin freely and when you lock the two nuts together it just locks the assembly down?

YuckyCorpse

try turning the whole assembly again, so the end of the threads are flush with the piece that attaches to the pedal assembly. "counter acting what you did" so It wont be sticking out at all, just flush. then try adjusting the nuts again. that's how I have mine set.

there should be paint marks on them.

and what do you mean by "the problem is it doesn't stay this way?

98PAITR

I had it perfect, then after a few days of driving it unadjusted and the brakes started to lock up. The problem with turning it back is that I wasn't the one who turned the whole assembly the first time, it was my friend so I'm not sure how far back to go. What I want to know is if I turn the adjusting nut clockwise will it eventually tighten down and stop turning? Does it snug against the booster? Mine just kept turning. What holds it locked in place? I know the two nuts turned together to keep them locked in place but what keeps the whole assembly locked in place?