Brandon04GT

I've got a 98 Civic LX, 4dr, auto trans, all stock with about 140k on it.

I was doing a wheel rotation yesterday and noticed some problems. After taking off both front wheels, I noticed that one of the CV joint boots have ripped, and both sides have this really thick black/gray paste or grease all over my control arms.

With my right wheel off the ground, I can also wiggle it left and right whereas the left side is solid.

Are my CV joints shot? Is that black/gray paste CV joint lube? I'm not getting any noises and I didn't notice this until now. The car drives fine, but steering does seem slightly on the looser side than responsive.

Can anyone diagnose what the problem is and what I have to get into to fix it?



Is this typically a time bomb to destruction in the most inopportune time?


Thanks

Slambeard

Replace CV axle.

Brandon04GT

Looks like that is in order...

Where is the best place to order them and what brand?

I was browsing youtube looking for a how-to video, and is it just as simple as removing the axle nut then removing the lower control arm and then pulling the shafts out from either end and replace?

And it's recommended to re-stake the new axle nut upon reinstallation, I assume?


Thanks

Wahski

There's a little more to it than that but as long as you have the proper tools it's a manageable job. I replaced my passenger axle with one from AutoZone. It doesn't have the counterweight that the OEM axles have but it's been holding up just fine. And yes, stake the new axle nut.

Slambeard

Any local part store carries them. Ask about warranty so you have no headaches later down the road. Yes restake the new nut.. Make sure you get te correct axle because drivers/passengers axles are different lengths.

belairbrian

It is pretty simple and yes you need to stake the nut after install. Axle should come with new nut.

I got mine at Oreilly's theay are re-mans and have been fine. If possible take the axles with you. There is usually a core charge and it lets you compare length at store to make sure you got the right part.

With 140K you may want to look at the condition of ball joints tie rod ends and such. No use taking it apart twice.

Slambeard

Look at your tie rods also. One of mine went bad and I could shake my wheel hub back and forth as you described.

strategy400

Be careful not to tear up the seals in the differential when removing/inserting the axle. A helper(s) may be useful to give the end of the axle a little love-bump with a sledge/2X4 to pop the c-clips into place when you are under there pushing/guiding it in. Support the car securely with jackstands to avoid death.

Brandon04GT

Alright guys thanks for the help. If I don't have an impact gun, how long of a breaker bar do I need to remove the nut? I've read some people using 6 foot bars but I'm not sure if that's being a bit too excessive...

I got a 600 mile round-trip tomorrow so I'm just gonna hope I can knock it out before working on this. I'm gonna ghetto rig up a band-aid to cover up the exposed cv joint in the mean time since the boot is ripped.

Wahski

It doesn't have to be stupid long, just tap out the stake as best you can and break the torque while the car is still on the ground.

Brandon04GT

Alright cool. In fact I might try and knock this out during my trip since I'll have access to a garage with lots of tools and even an impact wrench. Where I live, I park in a shared apartment garage so wrenching here is difficult.

I'll probably just just end up buying an new set....i'm not sure which is better between Oriley's and Autozone?

Wahski

The only difference between the two will be the price.

Slambeard

Buy the one from the store that carries warranty.