crazyminis

D15z1 engine in a 98 civic. Me and my buddy has came to the conclusion that in the civic they have kept the obd2 wiring harness and changed hook ups to the on the dizzy and put a ecu obd2 to obd1 conversion harness. We've sodered the dizzy so it plugs straight into the wiring harness (because we had to replace the dizzy) . He was told he had a mini-me swap but its actually a z1 head and block with a jdm d15 intake manifold, we have a z1 or z6 dizzy.

We were doing a head gasket on this car originally that had been sitting for about a year, after replacing the gasket, we changed the oil and filter, new new spark plugs in, new timing belt, kept the old spark plug wires, started out getting weak spark, changed the ignitor(screwed up the original one up), so we bought a remanufactured dizzy thinking that was the problem. Now we have no spark at all.

We have compression, fuel pump primes, main relay clicks twice.

What ive tried/checked.
Known good dizzy cap and wires off of a d15b7
Spare ecu(p28 5 speed, his car is also a 5 speed)
Checking fuses under the dash and under the hood. fuses 18, 24 and 31.
Re-check mechanical timing.
No CEL code


What im trying next - resodering the wires we sodered together to make the dizzy plug exactly to the wiring harness.
testing the reisistance at the a/b terminals and coil spring(if someone can help me out on how to test the coil spring that'd be awesome)
Cleaning the 3 grounds

Also there is an alarm system that is very sensitive.

crazyminis

bump

fcm

Do you have power going to the distributor assembly when ign switch is in the run AND start positions. [lead should be a black/yellow]? 94

crazyminis

Distributor terminals A: 12.15v B: 12.15V coil spring 15.44 ohms
compression check dry : 4(110) 3(90) 2(95) 1(110)
Ignition switch all checks out a 12 volts and above.
Im thinking the only thing it could be is rotor cap or spark plug wires. Ive tried a new spark plug and still no spark.

crazyminis

And I have 12 volts to fuses 18, 24 BUT i found 31 (ecm, pcm fuse) was blown. I checked for any voltage and nothing on the 9v setting, 0.02 on 2v setting if i remember right and 0.05 on ohms. I put a new fuse in and still no start. Im going to re-check spark tomorrow since i found the fuse was bad. Its almost 1:30am here so im doneskis for the night.

crazyminis

Anyone who is not familiar with what fuse 31, its the ECM/ PCM, pgm-fi main relay, integrated control unit. Also I took the cluster out and the CEL bulb was burnt, switch it out and got the CEL light to come on but still not pulling any codes, when I jump it, im getting a steady light until I unjump the plug.

fcm

A solid CEL when checking for codes, [jumper in plug] means no codes stored.

This does not mean you do not have a problem, obviously.

Have you rechecked for spark yet?

If not, use an HEI spark tester and check all 4 cylinders, and let it crank for at least 5-6 sparks so you can confirm you have strong and continuous spark.

If no/poor/intermittent spark, eyeball the tach as your cranking to start, does tach needle "bounce" a little, if not the problem is most likely the ICM. 94

crazyminis

Sorry for getting back so late, ive been hard at it.
Still pulling no codes

Yes and still no spark

As sad as it sounds, i dont want to stick anymore money into working on this car unless i absolutely have too. Im good with a screw driver or test light.


Tach does not move.


Sorry this is the best pictures i could get with the camera, thanks for the help man.

Distributor wires (no specific order)
Yellow/green
Orange
White/blue
White
Blue
Orange/blue
Black/yellow
Light blue



Engine Harness plug
yellow green
blue
green
orange
white
red
black
blk/ylw
blue(maybe light blue)




obd2 female plug
yellow
light blue
orange/blue
orange
blue/yellow
white/blue
white



Im going by this chart but i have no yellow on the engine harness(obd2 plug) side and have no green wire on the distributor side(obd1).



On the engine harness plug for the distributor, with the key turned on(fuel pump primes, main relay 2 clicks, check engine light comes on for 2 seconds then goes off), with a multimeter, I tested each wire and this is what I came up with.
Blue - 0.15v
blk/yellow - 11.95v
white 0.02v
red - 0.02
black - 0.02
orange - 0.46
green - 0.83
blue - 0.44
yellow/ green - 0.02

Im getting no spark at the coil spring with a grounded wire to the chassis, holding it close with pliers while a buddy cranks. No pulse but a steady light(with a test light) at the A or B terminals on the distributor, and no pulse but also a stead light (with a test light) at the fuel injector clips when cranking and on start. My problem lays in the wiring at the distributor side not the engine harness side in my opinion, i just have to figure out how to wire it correct. Yall tell me if you think all the wires check out for voltage ^ and what you think about the wiring problem.

crazyminis

best way i could explain, any help?

crazyminis

anyone for a bump this evening?

wwcrxww

if i were you i would remove that damn alarm....i have encountered plenty alarms acting up causing no start issues/intermittent start issues.... make sure you remove the alarm and everything associated with the alarm and solder all of your connections....

also double check that the rotor is actually turning under that cap.....i have also seen broken distributor shafts or broken distributor rotors..something so simple but easily overlooked...of course be sure that the distributor is good. - coil, igniter, crank and cam sensors, ignition wires, cap, and rotor...make sure that your wires are in good shape, and when checking for spark, check at the terminal on the distributor cap - this will be a more accurate and clear reading...

make sure your ecu is good! - you said the fuse was blown...there is a reason why that fuse blew.....i dont like that :x

not very likely, but its possible that your key switch itself can be is acting up..

if your check engine light illuminates when you turn the key that means your ecu IS getting power and this also eliminates that whole faulty key switch idea - chances are the grounds are ok, but it doesnt hurt to clean them anyway (tstat housing, valve cover, transmission and battery) the battery ground tends to rust where it bolts to the chassis... if any of these ground wires dont look good then clean and/or replace them! the ground cable from the transmission to the chassis is an important one - this one can absolutely cause weak or no spark, and its not a bad idea to add another heavy ground wire from a bell housing bolt to the chassis....a good solid and clean ground is a must and is very important! It will make or break any electrical sytem...common issue and a simple fix


double check EVERY pin, male side and female side, at the computer, and the strut tower and of course the distributor...this is an issue especially with the hondas these plugs are disconnected and reconnected so many times that pins will loosen, break, bend causing a nightmare....triple check all of the connections that were made...there is a good possibility that one bad connection will be the issue...and of course, double check all of your wiring and connections you talked about...

there are so many variables when it comes to diagnosing an ignition issue... just take your time and eliminate one possibility at a time... keep an open mind and try to keep things simple! otherwise frustration takes over and thats never fun.....more times then not the issue will be right in front of your face and if its not, then walk away for a few minutes and come back to it with a clear mind.

good luck bud and eliminate the biggest variable by taking that damn alarm out!

fcm

A 98 Honda Civic engine harness distributor assembly plug wiring is..

White and blue, [CKP] red and green, [TDC] black and yellow, [CYP] blue, [RPM output, to tach]] yellow/green, [ign. input signal from ECU/ECM] black/yellow, [ign. 1 input, hot in run and start, to coil and ICM], your "orange" is most likely a yellow.

What MM&Y of car is the distributor from?

The ICM is grounded to the distributor case, confirm, case is grounded, do a continuity test to the neg.(-) of the batt.

No bounce from the tach is an indication the ICM is not working, do a continuity test on the blue lead between the ICM and tach, to eliminate the lead as the problem. 94

crazyminis

Haha thanks for the help man, i ended up getting it wired up to spark then came to the computer and you had posted that. As for an update
- I got spark in all four cylinders.
- Rechecked my mechanical timing and it had skipped a half tooth so thats fixed with the timing belt tight.
- On another note I just found the head needed a really big valve adjustment the valves and rocker arms were waaay out of whack haha, i did get a lot more compression after adjusting the valves but after seeing my oil i decided to re-do the repair.
- After looking at the oil coming up to the cam, i decided to drain my oil, and after draining my oil i noticed a ton of antifreeze in my oil so im going to re-do the head gasket, hopefully the heads not doneskis after ive had it resurfaced. The good thing is i do have an extra z1 head thats been clean and resurfaced and brand new arp head studs (that i was going to use for my mini-me) in worse casinaro

crazyminis

Your probably right about that alarm and my problem being right in front of my face lol. Distributor is brand new, Got bright blue spark, Ecu's good we found out the orginal one is shot(everytime we hook it up it blows our fuel injector fuse under the hood), Im going to recheck that transmission ground but ive went through all 3 grounds and cleaned them with a wire brush and sand paper. What issues im dealing with at the moment are re-doing the head gasket because of the coolant in the oil and diagnosing why my fuel rail has pressure but i have no gas squirting out the fuel injectors qhen the key is on or cranking.

crazyminis

Alright heres my update. Ive re-did the head gasket job and it looked pretty rough after taking the head off. I used that copper head gasket seal that i will never ever use agian, it completely screwed up sealing. So i got the head and gasket cleaned up very thoroughly. While i had the head off I cleaned the top of the pistons..again and check the valves for being bent or not sealed fully and had quiet a few. Heres a picture showing what valves leak. I tested by putting brake cleaner in the intake and exhaust holes and looked at which valves leaked. All are marked by a marker.


Now Im at my make or breaking point, Im trying to keep it all together here but ive exhausted all i can do when it comes to the compression.
Compression test dry
4 (160)- 3(70) - 2(85) - 1(160)
Wet
4 (160) - 3(90) - 2 (90)- 1 (155)
The owner of the car wants to put the head back on and see if it will run, which i have did and it still doesnt
Some issues other than bent valves and low compression are:
- Fuel injectors are still not priming, there is no pulse in fi wires when cranking.
- In my opinion it looks like the camshaft is sort of wobbling when cranking like it could be warped. I can take a video and post if needed.

Recap what is good:
Got spark at coil and plug wires
Fuel pump primes
Main relay clicks twice when turn to on position
Check engine light comes on for 2 seconds then off
Got a known good p28 ecu in
No more fuses have blown
I keep checking the timing to make sure it hasn't slipped again, and so far so good.
Getting fuel to the fuel filter and fuel rail but not to the injectors.

Heres a better picture of the head and valves.

wwcrxww

as for your injector pulse issue...try checking continuity from the injector connectors to the ecu...maybe there is a break in the wires or loose pins, or corrosion somewhere...

also did you ever go over all of your grounds? - bad ground can be the injector pulse problem as well...

crazyminis

Ok so i got power to the injectors through the wires but no pulse. If i dont have power to the ecu for the injectors then i should trace ecu wires to injector wires, damn thats a pain in the ***. I can use a test light, but is there supposed to be a certain voltage coming out of the FI pin on the ecu and Ignition power pin out?

I did re-check and clean all my grounds and their still good but im actually thinking about branching all 3 grounds to the main battery ground.

fcm

That is really bad compression, below min. on 2 and 3, if it runs at all it will not be good.

Power for the injectors is supplied by the fuel injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay

A ground pulse is supplied by the ECU/ECM, to check continuity of the injector leads between the ECU/ECM and the injectors, turn ign. on and test for power on the 4 injector leads at the ECU/ECM, if the injector leads have continuity you will "read" the 12V+ on the other side of the load, [the injector]. 94

crazyminis

Normally i would atleast relap the valves but the customer wants to put the head back on and run it that way. Ive already had his car for 3 weeks so its time to get it back together and out of my garage.

So far i have power to from the injectors at the ecu, power at the injectors with no pulse. Wiring issues?