djkurious

95 Accord EX Sedan

For the past year my rear passenger window will not roll down. So I started troubleshooting today:

-Applied 12v > window motor harness via battery, it rolled down. Reversed the polarity and it rolled up. The window had no problem going up and down.

-Tested the harness to make sure 12v was going to the motor via multimeter and it displayed 12v once I hit the window switch. Hit the window switch the other way and it showed -12v.

-Took the switch from the other rear door, plugged it in, same thing, so that ruled out that the switch was the issue.

-Raised the window down via 12v>window motor harness, plugged the harness back into factory wiring and raised the window up with the window switch w/o issue. It still will not let the window down. When hitting the switch to let the window down, it doesn't make any noises or indications that it is trying to let the window down.

- All wiring is in OEM condition and none of the wires seem to show any signs of breakage or corrosion.

Any suggestions?

HondaAccordKen

You might have a bad drivers/master switch. It supplies negative to the rear switches. When you hit down from the master for one of the rears it breaks ground on one wire and applies positive. When you hit up it does the same to the other wire. The rear switch need the ground on both wires to operate in both directions. There should be 5 wires at the rear switches. 2 each from master switch, 2 to the motor, and 1 12V+ ignition. Unplug switch and connect the meter red to the 12V+ lead with key on and the black to both wires coming from master switch. You should see 12v on both. If not the master switch is bad. Try rapidly flipping the safety switch on the master and see if that's the problem. To shut off the 3 windows it has to drop the negative/ground to the 3 windows.

If one of the master switch wires is not at ground/negative try temp ground to that terminal and see if it works. If so bad master switch.

djkurious

Thanks for the informative response. I will try this weekend and post my results.

djkurious

Being short on time all week, I purchased a new switch (will be returning it today) and also borrowed one from a friends accord that works. The window still would not go down. So that rules out the master switch.

Lost Again

I hate wire issues.

Do me a favor.....pull the master, jump the YEL/BLK to the YEL/GRN and then the YEL to BLK...prefer BLK1 but BLK2 should work as long as the "lock out" switch is ok.....turn the key to on, what does the right/pass rear window do?

If it does nothing, pull the rear switch.....do not unplug it......turn the key back on, with the jump wires in the master still in place.....do you have 12v on the YEL/GRN (pin "B) wire?

If "Yes" - then test for 12v on the RED/YEL wire (pin "C").

djkurious

[QUOTE=Lost Again;48572819]I hate wire issues.

Do me a favor.....pull the master, jump the YEL/BLK to the YEL/GRN and then the YEL to BLK...prefer BLK1 but BLK2 should work as long as the "lock out" switch is ok.....turn the key to on, what does the right/pass rear window do?

If it does nothing, pull the rear switch.....do not unplug it......turn the key back on, with the jump wires in the master still in place.....do you have 12v on the YEL/GRN (pin "B) wire? Yes, saw a full 12v on the meter.

If "Yes" - then test for 12v on the RED/YEL wire (pin "C").[QUOTE]

Did not find a YEL/BLK wire but did find one in the mirror harness. Jumped as instructed and it did not do anything to the rear window once I turned the key to the "on" position. Went to the rear switch and 12v was on the YEL/GRN wire. RED/YEL wire only saw 10v on the meter.

Lost Again

My bad, read one part of the manual it says YEL/BLK but the wire diagram shows it as WHT/YEL (it is the 12v source from the fuse)....I stared at that diagram for five minutes as that wire didn't look correct

You are loosing volage in the rear switch. May or may not be the issue....you can do the swap, with the left rear, and see.

Should have posted the last part....the YEL (pin E) should have continuity to ground......also the RED/BLU (pin D) on the rear switch should have continuity to ground in the test....does they?

Wish I had a pic of the wires to show where we/I am going. Basically we are jumping the wires as the master switch would....then the rear switch is just a stoping point along the way to the motor.

Lost Again

Lets see how this goes......You'll need to save this and then "flip it", the way my scanner is, it came out up side down....

djkurious

Thanks for the extensive troubleshooting! I will download the adobe document and take a look at it. I am also uploading some pics of the master switch wires and the passenger switch wires. I also swapped the rear switches on the rear doors, same thing. I initially did that in my troubleshooting to narrow down the issue. Also, going to go check the RED/BLU (pin D) and post results.

djkurious

Ok, pulled the master and jumped YEL/WHT to YEL/GRN and then YEL to BLK= rear window did nothing.

Pulled the rear switch and didn't unplug it turned the key on with jump wires still in place= 12v on YEL/GRN
12v on RED/BLU (pin D)
12v on YEL (pin E)
Also, swapped the switch with working switch (rear driver) and got the same voltages.

Let me know how to proceed from here and thanks again.

Lost Again

Ok, just me but there should not be voltage on the YEL or RED/BLU....these are the ground path(s) to the motor....YEL is from the master switch....remember we jumped it from the BLK at the master (ground)...then out of the rear switch the ground to the motor is thru the RED/BLU.

Did I ever say how much I HATE electrical stuff

Sorry I'm not on here that much....so I might not be the best at helping as it might be days before I read your answers/post replies.

djkurious

I will double check this again this evening.