jphilly321

Got a d16y8 I just converted to stick, bitch is still so slow.
I want to rep the sohc name and put it to the b and k series fellas for awhile!
car has perfect compression and 110k oem miles.
Currently running aem sri,dc sports headers, skunk2 cat back, straight piped, chipped p28, stage 1 clutch. (I know when u boost a car the intake/header gets replaced, just figured id throw that in)

Wanting to make this car into a semi-fast lil d series.
Goals-300hp give or take a few
Dependability is a must, no cheap **** or reliability issues, I plan to drive this car daily.

From what I've read, people go with vitaras pistons, eagle rods, and arp head studs.

I'm going to be doing a complete build, money is an issue, but only to extents, as I have about 4500 right now to get started ;D

So, with that said, I plan to get the following parts: 1. either bisimoto/eagle rods
2.bisimoto vs. CP vs. Arias vs. wiseco pistons
3. AEM fuel pressure regulator (or other brand if people say it has worked)
4. Bisimoto injectors (thinking 450cc)???
5.AEM vs. Walbro fuel pump
6.Blackworks Racing vs. Edelbrock throttle body (66mm/70mm)???
7.BC valve springs+retainers
8.Skunk2 vs. Edelbrock intake manifold
9.ARP head studs/rod bolts
10. Clevite vs. ACL vs. Kings bearings
11. Cam Gear (open to all brands besides BLOX lol!)
12. Possibly a cam, if I have some money left over!

So, with that said, I am just looking for what people preference over what rumors I heard from the companies I have listed.
Price is not an issue between the brands, as I'm not cheaping out, I plan on this engine to last me a long ******* time and it will be port n polished stage 2 I'm thinking, so that won't be an issue either!
Turbo parts will come after all of these internals are bought, so I can get a rough estimate of how much boost I can attain at a safe level.

Thanks in advance everyone!

DirtyDA9

No issues with any of the companies. Dont go with what people tell you to get. Make it your own.

You didnt mention any turbo/manifld/fmic or what engine management you will be using.

450cc is way too small. Go with at least 800-1000cc.

A "stage2" port and polish, where do people get this stuff from lol.

And dont think "im building this to take XXpsi", it dhould be how much hp it can take. Psi means nothing and differs between every turbo

jphilly321

It's a long shot for what im going with turbo wise n engine tuning etc.
EH, the shop here in the port, goes with "stage pricing", its weird, but there's is decent.
I do hope that itll be able to hold its own though :D

OneBadTurboCRV

Stock everything aside from bottom end and head studs will be fine with your goals. That includes factory bearings... I would run Wiseco pistons namely because you seek longevity. The 4032 forging will provide decent wear characteristics to suit your needs. Rods can be Eagles. For those goals, spending more money is a waste. The single most expensive thing that will eat 1/4 of your budget should be the turbo. If you want "factory" like reliability you should get a ball bearing unit. They aren't as susceptible to coking as journal bearing turbos from user neglect. For injectors, you can't go too big (within reason) but I would want 550cc+ injectors.

If you "KISS" this project, you should be able to squeeze the entire build with your budget.

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

I think your over complicating things for your power goal. Ive ran my stock single cam boosted for close to a year (12k+ miles) daily driven to work with no issues.

Maybe save your money for a namebrand turbo (unlike me, running ebay) and other important components. In example a engine management unit (hondata), tial blow off valve, tial waste gate and decent exhaust manifold with a proper wastegate location.

Most importantly a solid tune, and i cant stress that enough. The tune must be pretty spot on, as i believe that has aided my set up to survive this long at this power level.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

PSI PSI PSI. How are ou even coming up with these PSI figures without a single mention of the turbo set up itself? Indicates a severe lack of knowledge on the subject. From the Single Slammer thread.

MalcolmV8

My setup has proven very reliable and a fantastic daily driver. I personally didn't see the need for changing out the intake manifold, throttle body, fuel pressure regulator and a ton of other stuff people do for daily drivers.

I went with CP 9:1 pistons since Vitaras drop the CR way to much. Eagle rods and some ARP head studs. I'm on stock head (with a fresh valve job), cam, intake, throttle body, block, crank. Factory bearings. It's still plenty fast. I've not dyno'd it but on E85 at 18 lbs of boost I walked a WS6 trans am on the highway. Power to weight

Most of my daily driving is on 14 lbs of boost on 91 pump gas. Over 10k miles on this setup and still running strong. No issues. I went with an M Factory locker in the transmission and glad I did. Once you start upping the HP traction is quite an issue. I also use boost by gear and RPM to control this.
Comp stage 1.5 clutch as well.

I went with ID 1000 injectors for good drivability. They are kinda pricey but car idles and drives like stock out of boost and to me that was worth every penny.

I used a Precision 5431 and went with the smaller .48 AR for quicker spool. Starts spooling little after 3k and around 4k sees close to full boost and closer to 5k when vtec kicks in it really wakes up and takes off.

Also use quality parts for turbo manifold, turbo itself, WG and BOV and it'll be a problem free daily driver. I initially tried cheaping out and went with a POS ebay BOV really not fully understanding it's function and importance and after going through two of them and still not getting them to work right I coughed up the $300 and put an HKS on and never looked back.

The formula is pretty simple for these D's to make a fast little daily driver. Head studs, rods & pistons.