Camansink

Okay here goes. I own a 91 Integra LS which was wrecked just before Christmas because I was nailed from behind. I bought a 98 LS afterward because I loved my old car and had become so accustomed to the b series engines. I bought the car with a misfire code and thought it was most likelye the tooth wasa bad spark plugs. Turns out I was wrong as I pulled out the dipstick to find exhaust smoke billowing out from the crank case. At this point I assumed I might as well do an entire gasket replacement so I did. When I pulled the head I discovered piston number 2 was fried. It had not however caused any problems with the block so I bought all new pistons and changed the rings and began to put everything back together. I had a buddy helping me with far less experience and (this part may be important) when he put the distributor back in he failed to align the teeth correctly and cracked one off when re-installing and he also took the dizzy cap off for some reason when he was trying to get the dizzy off. Now I am unsure if he installed it without damage or not but I very angrily snatched it once the tooth was cracked off and installed it with just the one. So after replacing all the gaskets including valve seals, intake, exhaust, pistons themselves and rings, head gasket fuel injector o rings and the intake side seals and pretty much every single gasket on the engine redoing the timing and valve adjustment I cranked it up. Voila the blowby was gone. Now here is where the real problem starts. When I started the engine it ran great.....until the coolant got warm. The engine began to surge and wouldn't stop, it did however run fine and I needed to go to work so I drove away. Over the next couple weeks I tried everything to fix the problem and nothing seems to work to make it stop. Here is a list of what I tried during this time period; Cleaned the IACV and the other valve underneath it, I changed the pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, rechecked the head bolts to correct torque, readjusted the valves, re-verified the timing was correct, cleaned and inspected all electrical connections changed the oil again and flushed the radiator. I have gotten random misfire codes map higher than expected and a a heater codes all at random times not together.

PART 2 Still nothing seemed to help. Once the compression of the pistons was fixed with the new pistons and rings I soon realized my clutch was done for so I ordered a new clutch kit o2 sensor and headgasket for fun hahaha. So I pulled the clutch and flywheel and changed that and also replaced the headgasket again and checked the head and block contact with a straight edge to see if they were warped. They were fine so I bolted it all up again and started the car. Again it got to temp and started surging. I am going nuts any ideas would be fantastic because I am out.

Camansink

Sorry for the typos my keyboard kept jumping to random spots and retyping over things.

Camansink

Anyone have anything?

Solster

ok with the random ECU codes you may have a grounding problem but it's slim.

i would change the fuel filter and get a new Dissy as yours was damaged and you don't know if the ICM is any good and it could be telling the ECM to pulse extra fuel from the injectors.
this clears up ant fuel/spark problems.

the missfire codes could be from a cloged fuel filter or injector basket filters making themunder fuel a cylender and missfireing or leaking injector running a cylinder rich. or a BAD ICM and/or coil (There inside the Dissy)

now the idle your discribing is most likely from a Vac leak but could be from other things.
now if you followed the guides in the FAQ sticky for cleaning the IACV and the FITV then did you make sure the o-rings sealed to the manifold and TB?

with you getting the MAP higher then expexted code did you cross the MAP and TPS connectors?

Not sure what you mean when you put "a heater codes" but i'm guessing it was meant to be O2 heater. and then was it S1B1 or S2B1?
S1B1 is before the Cat and S2B1 is after the cat.

also did you remember to set timing with the car at OP temp and the diag connector shorted using the middle mark of the set of three on the crank pully?

Try resetting the idle to Base Level. I just did a write up on it i'll post it below.

get the car up to op temp then turn off the car and Jumper the 2 wire Diag connector then unplug the wires from the IACV start the car (may have to use the gas peddle to get car started) and see where it idles @.

idle should be 480 +or- 50 RPM
with NO load (turn off ALL accessories and Lights)

if it's well over 900 RPM you have a Vac leak that needs to be fixed first after that do the following.

if needed turn the Brass idle screw located on top and just left of center of the throttle body till idle is correct

then check timeing and adjust if needed. Set idle again if timing was adjusted

now reconnect IAVC, Unlink the Diag connector and pull the under hood backup/ECM fuse and replace fuse after 10 sec.

Now start the car and let idle for 60 Sec.
idle should be 750 +or- 50 RPM

turn on Headlights Idle should be 850 +or- 50 RPM

your done.

Camansink

I spent all day messing with my car today. Funny you mentioned crossing the TPS and MAP crossing because I did that last night once I was finished working on the clutch but I quickly figured that out because I have a super air flow converter in my car and the throttle was not opening any % at all. I topped off the radiator fluid once more after bleeding it and cleaned my cold air filter. Still a no go so I took a break and had a few beers while I thought. I decided that I would give the IACV one more crack just for the heck of it and try cleaning it with something more abrasive. I grabbed a can of starter fluid and went to town on it as well as the holes where it connects. I reset the ecu and took it for a drive and just went all out and red lined it a few times. I checked a few times by pressing in my clutch and it dropped to 1000 and back up to 1500 and stayed. The same thing happened multiple times and no CEL. Problem solved. I don't understand though I cleaned it with break cleaner, throttle body cleaner. soap and water and this is what worked, go figure. I also took a lighter to the holes where it connects to the intake and it roared like a jet engine for a couple seconds. I meant the thermostat but I couldn't think of it for the life of me last night. By the way my cars normal idle is 1500 and has been since I got it and I have no Idea why but its steady that way and doesnt bother me in the slightest. I appreciate all your help and I had done everyone of the things you said and that's why I was losing my mind. You seem pretty knowledgeable, I have an electrical problem on the 91 that was in the wreck and its driving me nuts. I did everything to that car and its fast as hell and everyone wants me to fix it but I am no electrician. Care to help me with a completely different problem?

Camansink

Proofreading should be a law, I hate looking stupid.

Solster

I'll see what i can do it's a shame your not close i could just bring my tools and go to town on it.

there is a list of things that will make the car idle at 1500 but it's not good for the motor on cold starts if the OP temp idle is 1500 then your cold start idle will be close to 3300 and that means your looking at 2~3 sec of almost NO oil to the cam and other parts.
if it idles correctly when you run the idle setting method I posted up top I would say your ECT sensor is bad and the ECU thinks the car is Cold all the time and this will hurt Gas mileage and your Power