civiceg94

Lifted crv are nice. Is yours automatic? Hows the mpg? And how does it feel power wise ? Sorry for all the question. Lol Am wondering if i should get a manual or a automatic

Dc2_ShowStopper

thanks for the info .This is the same setup i wanna run. This is how we keep this thread alive everyone helping each other out. i plan on written up acouple of D.I.Y on the Crv thread to help.

**Admin Edit** No need to quote huge posts

2000crv sport

hey thanks this actually helps alot !!!! i have one question ....could u tell me how much the rims and spacers cost you before and after shipping charges ? because i still want too runs these rims and tires because i cant find a/t tires for my 17" rims that will fit at stock hight(at a reasonable price) .....the info would be much apreciated

Dc2_ShowStopper

@i64X how does it ride? how does it feel when hitting speed bumps ?

i64X

Thanks guys. Mine's a 5 speed manual. Before this I had an automatic - it was a 98. The 96-98 have like 30 less hp than the 99-01, so if you're looking for a first gen, definitely try to gun for a 99-01. I can't really compare apples to apples because my old one was probably the worst case scenario (96-98 auto) and the new one is the best as far as 1G's go (99-01 5 speed), but given what I can compare - night and day difference.

MPGs on both are horrible given what they are. I can't say how the bigger wheels/tires changed it. I can't imagine they helped. lol I typically get around 300 miles to a tank before the light comes on - so right around 19 mpg.

The OME springs ride like my factory ones did. Probably not as nice as NEW factory ones, but my springs and struts had 180K on them when I swapped them out. The struts weren't blown or anything, but they were old. I can't complain about the ride though, I definitely wouldn't call it "rough." I still don't have any interior rattles, even when hitting bumps with the current setup, so that's a plus.

i64X

Sorry I didn't see this because your post got formatted all weird -

Spacers were around $26 each and wheels were around $58 each. Shipping from Summit was "free" for ground shipping - but they did add a "$12.95 delivery and handling charge" - whatever that is. I'm in MI and Summit is in OH, so I got everything the next day. Can't complain for what was essentially $12.95 S&H.

Doesn't look that noticeable until you put it next to a stock one.

civiceg94

thanks for the info. i forgot to add that i already have a automatic 99 crv. i also get almost 300 miles to the tank. so am debating if i should get a manual or not cause i get lazy sometimes. lol

i64X

Sorry it was 20hp from gen 1 pre-update to post, not 30hp.

At least being a 1999 you should have an OD override button on the shifter. The 96-98 doesn't have that and is always trying to be in OD when its not supposed to be. Mine would always go in and out of OD going up long hills. It was so annoying.

civiceg94

thats whats annoying from my automatic always forgets it has another gear to use lol.

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

My wheels and tires killed the mileage on my Crv. Its crazy how much heavier they are than the factory wheel and tire package. I get about the same mileage but not exactly sure what it gets. I would guess around 23mpgs if you consider the tires being much taller than the factory set. I get the same on the highway as I do driving in the city, which is really weird too. Lol.

i64X

The steel wheels are a lot heavier than I thought they'd be. I drove to work on pretty crappy roads this morning and I was kinda bummed out that with the a.) heavier wheels and tires and b.) wider track with this new setup, that is takes a LOT more effort to slide the back end around like a hoon. :-p

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

Took care of a little winter maintenance yesterday.

-Oil change
-OEM Honda MTF change
-Rear diff fluid change (DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT HONDA DUAL PUMP FLUID II)
-Tire rotation (Much needed after about 16,000 miles)

I don't know if the trans fluid level was low or it may have never been changed (only had just over 100k when I bought it) but changing the fluid made a huge difference in how the car felt shifting from 1st to 2nd and all the gears as well

2000crv sport

you saying that about your trans flued and it shifting better makes me want too change mine becasue sometimes its hard too get in some gears....and reverse.....

i64X

If you're ever having trouble getting in to reverse, try to put it in third first, and then reverse. I don't remember the exact technical reason why that works - something about reverse sharing the same shaft or being the same size or alignment or something as third in the Honda 5 speed trans', or something like that. I read that a long time ago and have been doing it ever since. Works every time for me. :-)

Edit - I went back and searched and a lot of people are saying to put it in first, then reverse. That might work too. I honestly do it so often that it's instinctive I don't think about it anymore. Now that I think about it I usually try first then reverse, and if it doesn't slip in easily (usually it doesn't) I then try third then reverse.

Also remember that reverse doesn't have a syncro, so never put it in reverse if the vehicle is rolling or you might grind it.

2000crv sport

yeah figured that out the hard way :p and i still think i should change my flued at some point .....is there also a reason when i am in reverse and backing through like 2-3 feet of snow it randomly pops out of reverse .... any help would be apreciated

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

Yep this is correct! I always to it too man. Its like second nature that I go into first before going into reverse.

Changing the fluid it a cheap place to start when diagnosing an issue like that. I had a H22 and it had a slight grind in 3rd but after changing the fluid it was smooth as silk. If reverse is popping out I would check to make sure your cables are not moving around alot when you are shifting. They could have popped out of the brackets that hold them in place causing slop. It could also be engine mounts that are warn out so bad that its causing alot of movement.

77777

i have the reverse thing, some days worse than others, most days not at all. i put it in a random gear or somethings a combination of random gears until it works.

sucks to see how bad everyones mileage gets even with 215/75 and stock wheels. kind of deperessing. but i only get 26 on the stock stuff anyway, and i only drive maybe 50 miles on an average week. so i should sack up since i already bought the lift kit anyway.

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

^THIS

Haha.

Caddiman

iTrader: (2)

so i think i want to trade my sedan for a CRV?? any intrest?? lol

hit me up...I wantz a CRV now

I might put it up on CL soon if i dont get any bites

BIG T

Has anyone ever considered running factory crv wheels with a spacer with just bigger tires on a lifted crv
So as to get better gas mileage

BIG T

I really want to lift my V but don't want to drop down to 20-22 mpg to get can anyone say what their mpg is

2000crv sport

i get 500+ km's /tank with 215/75/15 winters driving nice... it really matters if u drive in hard or not because i can get it down too 400km's /tank without a problem

BIG T

U got a picture

2000crv sport

well u see the charger from the camera got lost so i ordered a new one off ebay should be in in the next few days and then ill wash it and get some pics

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

I have seen a few people running stock wheels with Bfg's. I dont know if they have used a spacer or not though. I would imagine that it helps a little bit. The tires are a bit heavier as well too.