hibar

Have 2004 Accord V6 with 103K,Manual recomends 105K replacement,how far beyond this milage is safe zone? Looking to get 1 more year and 15 to 20k before trade in, car has been super to this point will change plugs.

redyute

iTrader: (2)

If i were you i would have already done it at 100k,i've seen them brake before 105k.

94vtecmn

How do you drive the car? Are you relining it everyday? If so, change it now.

If not, you may be able to squeek another 15-20k. However, if you hear ANY whining on start up that tends to go away after it warms up, get it changed. That's the belt tensioner bearing or idler bearing getting tired.

Be sure to do the whole timing belt "kit".

hibar

lots of highway miles 250-350 per trip several times a month, used daily has never been redlined or pushed RPMs high [never flored 8+ yrs]. What would be considered reasonable dealer price for this job?, my local dealer is up and down on pricing I use him when price is in ballpark with local garage. Just quoted me 300+ for spark plug replacement, local garage was 1/3 the price.

gwiffer

The replacement interval is 7YR/105K. The rubber in the belt deteriorates with time rather than mileage; "redlining" and other aggressive driving habits put the most stress on the belt and shorten its life.

FYI, enthusiast-driven cars such as the WRX STI or Lancer EVO have TB replacment intervals of ?YR/60K.

I've seen large city dealers run specials for as low as $400; the auto-tensioner is an additional $100, usually. My local dealer wanted $1000+ to do the job.

BLKFLSH

I waited 8 years, because I only had 96k miles. I already had the parts, so when I started hearing rattling noises under the timing cover, I changed the belt. The belt itself looked great, but something was getting loose in there because there were skid marks on both adjuster and idler pulleys. The tensioner looked and tested good, but I changed it, along with both pulleys, water pump, and coolant. I've never heard of any belts going out on this engine.

94vtecmn

I was quoted $1000 from the dealer as well. I think if you can get it done for anything less than that, like with a special or a coupon, go for it.

GoLowDrew

I get what you are saying. Redline or not should not be a determining factor.

IMO, at this stage, it's like gambling. You can win or loose. 2X, I had "perfectly" running cars do "bad" when I tried to sell it. It not only becomes an embarrassment but also scare the buyer away (and here I say the car is great).

Loosing cost more so cover your bets. A changed timing bet adds value and attracts buyers. Sure, it's not a dollar for dollar type of value, but it also gives you that piece of mind for now.

Cost of belt or bent valves which can make the car "worthless" with no takers.

94vtecmn

I agree, which is why I did mine this past summer, at the recommended interval. The OP was asking if he/she could go farther. I was just trying to give a fair answer.

BLKFLSH

Your belt could last till 200k miles, but are you willing to take that chance? Plus, the belt is not the only component that can go bad. As soon as I heard the rattling noise, the pulleys were ordered, and the job was done. If you do go over the interval, keep your ears open for anything loosening up under those covers. When you do get it done, I would change everything, except maybe the seals.

Scott Griffin

I've always been under the impression that you "should" have your timing belt changed after 85k. That being said I am currently at 130k still with the original belt

GoLowDrew

Everyone should choose their comfort level on service or even life of the car. Some won't want to own cars when it reaches 100,000 miles. Some felt at 100,000 miles, the car is just "warming up" to a long life.

Take coolant for example. If you don't change it at 90K, it will be ok. Even if the hose was to bust at 110K, it may not have anything with not changing your coolant. Some people like to change it at 50K. Some 75K, some 100K.

If one is late with timing belt, and it snaps, then it could be SOL. If you are late in changing your coolant, it's a different kind of "issue" that is not exactly SOL.

(is this a good or bad example to use?).

hibar

Local Honda dealer quoted 560- for job including coolant replacement, this did not include all parts some posters have listed. Dealer replaces what in there experance is necessary although they will be happy to poor in all the parts you want. I am only looking at a year or so more out of this vehicle[20-25K]. Was also quoted 275- for spark plug replacement[car currently runs fine] local shop was 175- with oem plugs, do I really need to change the plugs out at this time?

GoLowDrew

On the plugs. IMO, wait and see if you wish. It will trigger a check engine light, but no fear as you can guess what it is. Yes, misfired engine can damage your engine too, but I "feel better" about this than a bent valve from a broken timing belt.

Although they don't advise driving with a misfired engine, the car can still be driven (home for you to install new plugs).

ken9

Depend how you drive the car and weather you live long. The belt can last around 105000 km on it and something more. The belt isn't hard to change but the crank pully bolt just pain in the *** to take out something if you lucky. All you need a service manual, tools, parts and couple car mehanic dude. I have done timing belt before and whole idea was to set it TDC. It very important. Just too much to write off on how-to change timing belt

BLKFLSH

Maybe some of you already know this, but the owner's manual says that if you regularly drive your car in "Extreme" climates ( above 120 degrees, or below minus 20 degrees), you should change the belt at 60k miles. I don't know where you would have to live, to "regularly" experience those climates. This does suggest to me that if you live in very cold or hot places (Canada Arizona), you might not want to put it off to well over 100k miles.

GoLowDrew

Since we are talking about everything under the sun, yeah. I've seen hoses bust for "no reason" on garaged cars in AZ. And these are dealer serviced cars. So there were checked often. Dry rot can be more of a factor than use in some parts of the country.

0Steve@Spreen

I am siding with Drew, change the belt, possibly the water pump, inspect the tensioners and seals and be done with it. Spark plugs you can get away with for now, other than reduced gas mileage and rough running (with possible CEL) nothing catastrophic will happen. I know you're selling it, but anyone who knows Hondas will know that the belt should be changed. Not doing the belt may cause your buyer to question the maintenance of the vehicle....

bankonyourself

bump

Aarondc805

its not too hard to find tis out...

hibar

I don't understand this reply to timing belt life, am I missing something?

GoLowDrew

Bump, in internet forums, just mean he is "bumping" this thread to the top of the list. The most recent thread stays at the top.

Not sure why he would be "bumping" it up. It's not like this thread is so old. Maybe he just want to increase his post count, with a reply.

hibar

Interesting,thanks for info. I just had dealer replace timing belt and coolant [640-] and will change plugs at local garage with oil change [105K] hope to get another 30 to 40k before trade in, car is 2004.

Racer02gtstang

See if the timing belt tensioner is leaking. It's one of the most common issues and if it fails it will skip time

hibar

I am assuming the dealer mechanic checked all parts out when they replaced the timing belt, they usually do not miss any opertunity to add additional work to job especially when they are not that busy. Interesting there sister dealership next door[Nisson] is sitting on at least a dozen 2012 Maximas[33+ sticker] and the salesman said they can't move them.