EK6Ian

I'm new to the forum and I have tried searching but havent really found anything to point me in the right direction. If I have posted in the incorrect section i apologize. I have a 97 civic hatch with a B18c1, b16 pr3 head, B16 tranny and p28 ecu with jumper. a few of my friends that have gsr swapped eg hatches say mine doesnt run like a gsr they say it has the power of a b16. I'm planning to do a compression test to see if its low. but I was wondering if you guys knew any other reason why it wouldnt have as much power as it should? It has the stock d-series exhaust with a test pipe, but it doesnt smoke and idles very smooth, and v-tech does work. I know I need to clean the engine bay and organize the wires, the PO did the swap and I've only had time to install inovative billet street mounts and change the cv axles. Thanks in advance for any advice to get it running strong

98vtec

Problem 1 and 2.

EK6Ian

Thankyou! yea they have said I need to get exhaust because the d-series is too restrictive for the gsr. what ecu should I be running? I believe I have and obd2 harness but the PO spliced in obd1 injectors. I just dont want it to sound ricey AT ALL i really dont want it to sound raspy either. how would it sound if I just took off the d series muffler so it would just be a test pipe and piping out to the back

Skunk2Brian

The B16 head is an open chambered head versus the GSR head which is closed chambered. Putting the B16 head on the B18C1 bottom end will lower compression which will certainly hurt performance.

EK6Ian

Oh I thought it flowed better and only lowered compression by .02
My friend has a gsr head with type r springs and retainers he would sell me for 250 but I've been told if I plan to build the cylinder head then it doesn't matter if you start with a b16 head or gsr I was told to just put the 250 into building the head I have. Is that incorrect?

EusebioSam19

iTrader: (2)

Supertech flat face valves + some type r cams & a tune
And change that exhaust!

speedjunkie_g35

It could be a bad tune on the p28. Exhaust as mentioned is a issue. It will sound like crap and loud as hell if you run a straight pipe from the cat. I have a yonaka ws-2 exhaust on my gsr swapped hatch and very pleased for the price( less than $300). Have the spark plugs and wires been replaced recently? Something you might want to look at.


Wait are you running a stock p28 with no tune? Only reving to 6500? Def the problem if it is.

DDTECH

More then likely it needs a tune - Secondly the motor can't breath.

EK6Ian

Ive suspected it could be a bad tune, it does rev to 8 though. I'm doing a compression check on sunday, when I do that I'll change the plugs since I've already bought some ngk's for it anyways. getting a header from PLM since there running a 35% off sale this fri-mon but dont know which one yet. I did some more looking at the exhaust and it looks like theres either two test pipes or one test pipe one resonator maybe idk, all with 2.5" or 3" piping back to the tiny piping coming out of the d-series muffler. thanks for yalls responses. guess I need to get a better muffler now then

EJ-1

tune an that exhaust is restricted change it asap

EK6Ian

ordered the TA header from PLM, and gonna get the skunk2 megapower muffer

EK6Ian

did a compression test and only got 155 on each cylinder but I think the gauge might be messed up cuz I find it odd that I would get the same exact number for each cylinder.

wunfstgsr

There is a lot you don't understand about these motors/ modifying them.
Fist your comp looks dead on and its a very good thing they ALL read the same number. Ok consistency is what you look for in a comp test. The motors temp will affect the numbers as well.
You need to let the motor breath!!!! You have a 2.5'' or 3'' piping from the header to a stock d series muffler! that's restricting the ex allot! think of blowing through a straw then bend the end of it and see how harder it is to blow air through the straw, same idea. You want a 2.5'' piping and if the test pipe is 2.5'' leave it if its not get a true 2.5'' test pipe. Leave the resonator and a skunk2 mega power muffler is great just make sure it as a 2.5'' inlet to match the 2.5'' piping. If it has 3'' piping remove it and get a 2.5'' ex piping fabed up with the skunk2 muffler. Leave no restrictions or bottle necks in the exhaust. You want a true 2.5'' from your header collector all the way to the muffler. once its tuned it should sound great! The resonator will keep the sound quite.

You need to tune the motor with a ems like at least a hondata s100 dont cheap out on a free ems sofware like chrome they are known to glitch so invest on a good ems to tune the motor and have it tuned asap.

Your head and comp is fine and is not whats holding the performance back. Look into the motors timing and check to see if its right. If your timing is off the motor will run poorly.
Also check the spark plugs for the proper size and gap. The wrong heat range or gap will cause the motor to run poorly.

After all this is done and tuned you should feel a huge difference and walk your friends gsr. Just be careful and responsible we never encourage street racing EVER!

EK6Ian

wunfstgsr thankyou very much for your reply I really appreciate, it I didnt set it up that way, I'm cutting of the d-series muffler asap to see how it runs idc about sound I'm ordering the skunk2 megapower on friday. Im constantly fixing the PO's stuff, there were a ton of stripped threads I've had to repair on the motor mounts not mention missing bolts. and now that you mention temperature I totally forgot about having the motor at operating temp when doing the compression test. i did the test when the motor was cold on a 45 degree day. so even without further modification like an intake manifold or building the cylinder head would a hondata300 tune be worth it?

wunfstgsr

Just use a Hondata s100 its a bit cheaper and will be enough for the setup. If your gonna tune it do as much as you can on modifying the motor so when its tuned everything will run perfect together, usually once you tune a setup and then further modify it later the tune will be off dep on the mod done such as a bigger ex, or bigger intake or upgraded cams ect and will usually require a retune. Porting the head and ading a aftermarket intake manifold will deff require a dyno tune. Its always worth tuning the motor to get the most hp out of the motor and achieving the best mpg and performance.