MalcolmV8

I really enjoy reading other people's engine or turbo builds and looking at all the pics so I figured I'd share some pics from my recent engine rebuild for others.

I was boosted on the stock internals and eventually lifted the head gasket at 10lbs of boost. Decided to make the engine stronger so I pulled the whole thing out.

I rebuilt it with CP 9.0:1 pistons and Eagle rods with head studs.

Here it starts. Engine coming out



My son lending a hand when he can



OK engine out. Time to start tearing this down.



Factory pistons



Eventually a bare block which will be on it's way to the machine shop



Block back from the machine shop. Notched for the new rods. They notched the mains girdle too



Stock rods vs Eagle rods



Alright who's ready to assemble a new engine?



Unfortunately my hands don't fit in these tiny bores so I had to teach my son to prep the bores



New pistons with the rings installed after they were filed to correct gaps.



Piston and rod assemblies coming together



Prepped block ready for assembly



Pistons going in





Head cleaned and ready to go back



Making some progress



Starting to look like an engine again



Before you know it the engine's almost all done



Almost done and ready to go back in the car



Back to the engine bay



And all done!



I also attempted to install this radiator which should cool quite a bit nicer than the stock unit since mid 100 degree summer heat caused the car to run around 210 ~ 215F just cruising on the highway at 70mph. The intercooler blocks to much air going to the radiator.



Unfortunately the above radiator didn't fit for a number of reasons. Id' have to redo my turbo manifold, turbo intake, new down pipe, dump tube etc. So instead I got this 14" SPAL fan that'll suck the chrome off a bumper and used it with the stock radiator.



I had tried a fan shroud too but just couldn't get it to fit.

Tid bits of info... all new parts used in engine, oil pump, water pump, bearings etc. Valve job done on head, all new belts including timing belt.

Hope you guys enjoyed.

rich7777

Look good man! It looks like you've enjoyed yourself as well.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Nice build

I would really make a fan shroud if your temps are getting to 215 again. I had the same problem and I'm running a dual core fluidyne.

I made a shroud for the fan.
I also set my fan cut off mph higher. Stock is 35mph, but that with good airflow to the radiator. I set mine to 70mph and now with the changes I made my temps stay solid at 188-190.
Good luck get a tune asap

MalcolmV8

Yeah love the cars hobby. I enjoy it alot

I purchased the mishimoto fan shroud but couldn't even come close to getting it to fit. That's why I went with the 14" SPAL and also bumped mph cut off like you said. We'll see next summer if that was enough or if I need to come up with a new plan.

As for tune I'm working on it. Car is 100% tuned by myself with the S300

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Check with the fitment of another radiator. Just because the intercooler blocks it completely doesn't necessarily mean that you're going to block coolant flow, especially with a new aftermarket radiator. Believe it or not, higher capacity dual (and triple) cores help circulate water and keep temps down a lower than you think.

Also, think about the type of intercooler you have. I believe you have one that is tube/fin in design, and on average allows more airflow to the radiator than say a Bell or Garrett core. For example, I actually got a LARGER capacity half-core radiator with a big Garrett intercooler that blocks the entire front. on 90 degree day, temps were a nice 192 degrees.

So, don't give up yet on a better capacity radiator for the setup. the fan alone may work for dropping coolant temps after the coolant has been heated for a bit, but you want to have them not get that high in the first place, so a better radiator is definitely in order.

MalcolmV8

I agree a larger capacity radiator makes a world of difference and doesn't need nearly as much air flow. I've seen this first hand on many other past projects. The problem is the turbo placement currently is almost touching my stock radiator. So a larger radiator is immediately pushing up so tight on the turbo I can't get the outlet tube installed or the intake tube.
One possible option is to cut into the radiator core to sink the radiator back a little towards the grill to make it fit. I really didn't want to cut up the body yet if I don't have to. Hence the spal fan for now.

The setup I have now works absolutely killer in these temps and will more than do the job till next summer so I have time to think about an upgrade path if needed.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I was just thinking about that for you, since it doesn't "tuck" into the upper support like a good C&R could. Glad you thought of that idea, as perhaps in the future it might be a reality.

MalcolmV8

If they make a shorter radiator that's small enough to tuck in there without cutting up the body even better.

0Janet@bisimoto

Thank you for sharing! Impressive!

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

Dont have the Fan ever shut off, i let mine run all the time. Once it hits the setting i put it at. It stays right around 190 to 195ish. on 90+deg days.. Nice Build Please update with numbers track times ECT. Keep up the great work!!

Steeve_Civic

What about a KOYO radiator?

How can you set to 70 mph your Fan?

I had a bad experience with Mishimoto Fans

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Contrary to popular belief, having the fans on all the time at higher speeds (highway) will actually cause the radiator to NOT cool as well due to lack of clean airflow from air accessing the radiator. This would actually occur if the fans are set too early as well.

As for having a fan set at "speed" that's for your management system to try and use. if Not, there are manual control systems you can use to turn it on and off at will. Get a good thermostat no lower than 93*C or 170*F, good coolant with water wetter, a good SPAL fan with a Koyo (my personal favorite), and you're golden.

Steeve_Civic

Okay thank you.
Which Cap pressure do you advice?
OEM is 1.1b I think.

kbouchard1092

This is what i used... its a 1.3. If your using a aftermarket radiator id go with this one

http://www.fmpracing.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1887

Ohh and if your using the S300 you change the raditor setting to 70mph in the protection parameters. It gives the option to override raditor switch to the desired MPH and ECT tempature of your choice. I used 182 and 50 mph. I never see my tempatures go above 188 even in traffic.

MalcolmV8

What's the point of increasing the pressure on the cooling system? That just raises the boiling point even higher right?

Steeve_Civic

Thank you, where is it on the S300 please?

kbouchard1092

in the paremeters section....look for the protection tab. All the way on the bottom

Steeve_Civic

Found thks it was disable on mine.

If I enable it:
Temperature: 53° F
Max Speed: 31 Mph.

What do you advice me please?

MalcolmV8

You will need to play with what settings work for you. I currently have mine at
Temperature: 195 F
Max Speed: 55 mph (I may need to bump this in the summer)

55F for your fan seems wrong? that would mean your fan is pretty much running all the time because your engine will never cool below 55F for it to turn off.

Steeve_Civic

Yes you're right.
Thks for advices, I will try this this week!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The increased spring pressure helps to maintain a specific pressure inside your cooling system. As atmospheric pressure rises, the boiling point of a fluid also rises. Boiling fluid isn’t very good at transferring heat, so by increasing the pressure inside the system, you increase the amount of heat the cooling system can remove before it begins to boil.

MalcolmV8

Right but unless you have a problem of boiling over your coolant I don't see why guys install these. I mean who's boiling their coolant? I think last I checked water/coolant mix at 1.1 bar boils at something like 265 F or there about. Why would you ever need to increase that?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Because of increased cylinder pressure outside of just regular street driving. In road racing and and other situations, it is actually necessary, especially if you're only running water in the radiator, in which some tracks and events require.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

nice work!