chairbot

No check engine lights. Fuel pump primes, cranks over but doesn't even muster a sputter like its going to start.

Decided to pull spark plugs, check gap and clean off. 1, 2 and 3 all smell like gas but 4 does not. Could this be part of my issue? Main relay is fine. The engine sat for a while without being started before being put in my car.

Edit: Just tested #4's injector by taking it out and triggering it with a 9volt. Clicks as it should. When I took it out, the whole rail/all four injectors had gas in them.

pathan

Well obviously you're not getting spark. You always want to check these three things. TIMING/SPARK/FUEL. Have you checked to see if you're getting spark? Distributor could have gone bad. After checking for spark, check your timing.

Onefreak

make sure your map and tps sensors are not mixed up,then check the distributor make sure you didnt mix the 2 white wires up and/or the blue/greenand the blue/white wires up if you did you probably fried your igniter ...double check all your grounds...just went through it myself and had the 2 white wires mixed up fried the igniter and took me 2 days or troubleshooting and alot of googlin to find out.hope this helps

Former User

Check spark and go from there.

Checking for swapped sensor connectors is also a good idea.

zeinhonda

check to make sure the ground at the thermostat is connected, that is a sensor ground an also the ground for the main relay... no ground hooked up at tstat=no start ever period

zeinhonda

if sensors were swapped she'd still run, just like crap if the tps and map were swapped it would throw a cel. there isn't really any other plugs you could mix up and not have her run. Thermostat housing ground is where i am willing to put my bux... if thats not it, get back to me and i will help you get it started

zeinhonda

if the engine sat for awhile it can take awhile to get it to start... just keep trying. i just read you did have fuel to the plugs, my bad on my other theory. just crank it over and try for awhile, its a lack of compression from sitting. exercise those rings!

v4lu3s

which d15 did you start with? mpfi swap done as well?

zeinhonda

once she fires itll run great, ive seen em take 5 minutes of trying to start and giving it gas occasionally until they begin to sputter into life...

zeinhonda

just remember to stop cranking every 10-20 seconds tops for a couple seconds so you dont burn up the starter

zeinhonda

if theres spark of course and timing and firing order are right

zeinhonda

did you get the ecu with the a6? I am safe to assume you converted the car to multi-point also? including the resistor box. If you need a hand i can walk you through it if it didnt get done yet.

zeinhonda

Or any multipoint ecu in that matter... obd1 is great, you can chip it with a basemap on it that would suit the d16a6

Former User

This^ is not necessarily true.

zeinhonda

thats true, obd2 would be horrible for his application, but if you wanted to make it work you could lol... point is still tho, does he have the multi-point ecu or is he still trying to run a dual point ecu?

chairbot

I did do a dpfi to mpfi swap to my harness and added a resistor box.

I did not get the same ECU that was originally with the engine. Right now, I have an 88-89 PM6, while my engine came from a 1990 CRX Si.

I started with the D15b2.

Sadly, while removing one of the injectors, I overtightened the bolt on the end of the fuel rail (which, I stupidly found out I never needed to remove in the first place) and stripped this bolt:



So, I'm just feeling a bit stupid and waiting to test spark until I can replace this bolt (and probably the whole rail to be sure) because every time I even turn the key, it spews fuel everywhere.

Thanks for the enthusiastic help Zeinhonda.

*waits patiently*

zeinhonda

The injectors are all supplied with a common positive 12vdc, the ecu sends a negative pulse from an input from the cam senser I believe... Point being, a dp ecu isn't set up to fire 4 injectors. Each injector has the own designation at the ecu. In obd1 I believe they're a1, a3, a4, & a5... Could be wrong tho. That doesn't help you excep that you need a multipoint ecu and to wire those in to the ecu

zeinhonda

Your resistor box just wers the voltage supplied to the positive terminal of the injector because they are low impadence I think

v4lu3s

i would be checking your wiring for mpfi, both injectors and distributor.

zeinhonda

Yep^. I'm not much of a dual point guy, but I'm curious... Can you tie all 4 injector negatives in pairs of 2 and utilize the 2 at the ecu? I realize the injectores wouldn't be timed perfectly, but mix up 2 injector clips on a multipoint and tell me if you can even notice the difference? I've never used an obd0 ecu, so I was just wondering

chairbot

I have an SI ECU and I also did all the necessary wiring in the swap. I can always double check. But the smell no gas in inj 4 worried me. I will crank and check spark/compression/timing as soon as I replace that bolt!

v4lu3s

double check your wiring.
swap injector 4 to a different position to see if it is the injector or bad wiring.

chairbot

Replaced all spark plugs and gapped correctly.
Checked all dpfi to mpfi wiring for distro with voltmeter. All is good.
Checked resistance in ignition coil. Good as well.

Not getting ANY spark to any of the wires.

The thermostat has the ground connected to it, where is the other side?

Still won't start. Any guesses?

zeinhonda

I can remember if it's the crank sensor or the cam sensor that singnals the ecu to fire the coil, but that's where I'd look next. Find a dizzy pinout and an ecu pinout. Figure out which pins are for the crank and cam sensors and isolate the wires by unplugging them at the dizzy and te ecu. Get a multimeter and set it to continuity, stick one probe into the crank sensor positive at the dizzy and do the same at the ecu. If the meter beeps it means you have continuity you can flow electrons thru that fire. So now youve proving that wire is gettin to the ecu from the dizzy (as long as the wire terminal is actually making contact to the pins at the ecu and dizzy. It could be they aren pushed all the way into the plug. They may not have "locked in" compare them to the other ones next to them). Check all the other wires for those 2 sensors... Or google which sensor is for that. Sorry I'm not more descriptive. This was off the dome. Hope it helps a little. You'll just have to google dizzy and ecu pinouts

chairbot

Yup, I already checked both those pinouts, ECU to Distributor wires are all reading continuous and aligned wiring-wise perfectly. The plugs themselves are pretty together, they clicked/locked and everything. I will check for those sensors now.