Questions about my B20z re/build & automatic tuning
10-28-2012, 09:02 PM
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Questions about my B20z re/build & automatic tuning
Mistakenly posted this in tech, will be removing that post.
Short story: Wife's dd 99 CRV AWD Auto overheated and blew hg between 2&3 plus I have oil loss at 1 qt/3.5k and possible burnt valves. I have a very reputable machine shop lined up to clean, deck, bore, hone, mic the block and surface + valve job the head. I will be dis/assembling the engine. I will have it tuned immediately.
Goal: A very reliable setup with a fairly good power increase without sacrificing much, if any, low-end b20 grunt.
Parts so far:
1. YCP 84.5mm pistons with Supertech rings on stock rods with ARP rod bolts.
2. Honda OEM gaskets/seals/bearings/timing/etc.
3. Machine shop will check line bore and crank, polish crank.
General Questions:
1. Is the Crower 402 cam a good match for my goals? I would like to NOT have to replace my valvetrain and do not plan on revving over 7.5k (current redline is 6.7k). Crower website says stock springs are fine. http://www.crower.com/acura-1-8-rs-l...pair-4342.html
2. Are Supertech rings a good choice?
3. With the deck and head minimally milled I'm looking at approximately 11.1:1 CR.....93 octane correct?
4. Head porting...The only header available for the awd CRV is from OBX.....ehh but only option, oh well. Given my goals, is it worth it to port the exhaust side of the head or does the p75 head flow pretty well? What specific points on this head need attention if I port it?
5. RS Machine phenolic intake gasket....good quality or not?
6. I can get ARP head studs for less than OEM head bolts. Can I reuse my current head bolts or should I get new? Engine has never been apart so these bolts have only been stretched once.
Tuning questions:
1. I'm guessing I'll need to convert to obd1....is this correct? I'll need an ecu conversion harness and a distributor jumper harness with an obd1 ecu and dizzy correct?
2. Exactly what distributor should I use?
3. Which ecu do I need given that this vehicle is remaining automatic? (torque converter will be rebuilt by level10.com). There seems to be much conflicting data on the web about which tunable ecu to use with an automatic CRV.
4. OEM injectors....will they flow enough for my setup?
5. I will use iridium plugs, should I go a step colder with the higher compression engine?
6. Currently I do NOT pan to use adjustable cam gears, I know robbing me a few ponies. How much of a power difference am I looking at given a great tuner?
Appreciate any advice folks!
Short story: Wife's dd 99 CRV AWD Auto overheated and blew hg between 2&3 plus I have oil loss at 1 qt/3.5k and possible burnt valves. I have a very reputable machine shop lined up to clean, deck, bore, hone, mic the block and surface + valve job the head. I will be dis/assembling the engine. I will have it tuned immediately.
Goal: A very reliable setup with a fairly good power increase without sacrificing much, if any, low-end b20 grunt.
Parts so far:
1. YCP 84.5mm pistons with Supertech rings on stock rods with ARP rod bolts.
2. Honda OEM gaskets/seals/bearings/timing/etc.
3. Machine shop will check line bore and crank, polish crank.
General Questions:
1. Is the Crower 402 cam a good match for my goals? I would like to NOT have to replace my valvetrain and do not plan on revving over 7.5k (current redline is 6.7k). Crower website says stock springs are fine. http://www.crower.com/acura-1-8-rs-l...pair-4342.html
2. Are Supertech rings a good choice?
3. With the deck and head minimally milled I'm looking at approximately 11.1:1 CR.....93 octane correct?
4. Head porting...The only header available for the awd CRV is from OBX.....ehh but only option, oh well. Given my goals, is it worth it to port the exhaust side of the head or does the p75 head flow pretty well? What specific points on this head need attention if I port it?
5. RS Machine phenolic intake gasket....good quality or not?
6. I can get ARP head studs for less than OEM head bolts. Can I reuse my current head bolts or should I get new? Engine has never been apart so these bolts have only been stretched once.
Tuning questions:
1. I'm guessing I'll need to convert to obd1....is this correct? I'll need an ecu conversion harness and a distributor jumper harness with an obd1 ecu and dizzy correct?
2. Exactly what distributor should I use?
3. Which ecu do I need given that this vehicle is remaining automatic? (torque converter will be rebuilt by level10.com). There seems to be much conflicting data on the web about which tunable ecu to use with an automatic CRV.
4. OEM injectors....will they flow enough for my setup?
5. I will use iridium plugs, should I go a step colder with the higher compression engine?
6. Currently I do NOT pan to use adjustable cam gears, I know robbing me a few ponies. How much of a power difference am I looking at given a great tuner?
Appreciate any advice folks!
11-01-2012, 11:01 AM
#3
Re: Questions about my B20z re/build & automatic tuning
Whoaa.. alot of questions there.. Heres my .02 as i am building a similar build.
General:
1. If not replacing valvetrain, then yes theyre fine. technically, ur supposed to use fresh springs. They wont flow as good with your comp ratio as a 403/404, but are better then stock. I have some Cranes that im selling cuz im going to larger cams. PM me for info.
2. Use the rings that come with the pistons
3. Check zeal compression calculator and figure in 1.3cc dome and 30.06 height
4. theres plenty of headers that will fit, and 4-1 from ebay will work just fine. Mine was 109 shipped.
5. I would use the ARP studs, theres a few in hondamarketplace.com for sale for cheap. you want more clamping with the higer comp u have
Tuning:
1. Yes, jumper for distr and ECU, also a P75 ecu socketed and chipped (xenocron.com)
2. The one you have is fine. Id change the internal coil to the Accel 11071 ( i think thats the part number) for better spark over the 10+ year old coil.
3. this would be an excellent question for your tuner sice everyone is manual. or ask Chris @ Xenocron.com
4. they can, but might be maxxed, RDX or some 330's or 440's will have better spray pattern over OEM
5. Iridiums arent necessary, 1 step colder is fine and start at .044, if theres detonation, then 2 steps colder.
6. depends on the tune and tuner.. could be a few ponies, could be up to 10.. no one knows for sure till you put it on the rollers
General:
1. If not replacing valvetrain, then yes theyre fine. technically, ur supposed to use fresh springs. They wont flow as good with your comp ratio as a 403/404, but are better then stock. I have some Cranes that im selling cuz im going to larger cams. PM me for info.
2. Use the rings that come with the pistons
3. Check zeal compression calculator and figure in 1.3cc dome and 30.06 height
4. theres plenty of headers that will fit, and 4-1 from ebay will work just fine. Mine was 109 shipped.
5. I would use the ARP studs, theres a few in hondamarketplace.com for sale for cheap. you want more clamping with the higer comp u have
Tuning:
1. Yes, jumper for distr and ECU, also a P75 ecu socketed and chipped (xenocron.com)
2. The one you have is fine. Id change the internal coil to the Accel 11071 ( i think thats the part number) for better spark over the 10+ year old coil.
3. this would be an excellent question for your tuner sice everyone is manual. or ask Chris @ Xenocron.com
4. they can, but might be maxxed, RDX or some 330's or 440's will have better spray pattern over OEM
5. Iridiums arent necessary, 1 step colder is fine and start at .044, if theres detonation, then 2 steps colder.
6. depends on the tune and tuner.. could be a few ponies, could be up to 10.. no one knows for sure till you put it on the rollers
Last edited by EsotericImage; 11-01-2012 at 11:16 AM.
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