NazVil86

Im having issues with my 2000 civic si power windows. When I bought the car the previous owner told me they wouldn't go up or down, but the car had A/C so i figured it wouldn't be much of an issue, fast forward to today and the A/C went out (compressor bad) so instead of opting to pour funds into getting a new compressor and fixing a few other issues with it, i decided to finally get to messing with the windows.

Things ive done/bought

I tested the window motors by connecting a 12v power source to the motor connector (2P on passenger side, 4P (?) on driver side *basically followed the red/yellow wires and applied power to them). The windows on both sides went up and down when i applied power and switched the + and - around to get them to go back down. So window motor + regulators are both working on each side.

Once everything is connected and I try to use the switches, nothing- no sound, no dimming lights like if its trying to draw power, nothing happens.

I went down, removed kick panel for easy access to the fuse box under there. Took my test light to the 20Amp fuses to #10-11 fuses (p/w fuse for passenger and driver side) - no light, checked other fuses to be sure I had a good ground just in case and indeed, other fuses checked out on the test light- except the #10-11 fuses. I pulled both fuses out and physically they look good, the links aren't broken, burned or appear to be damaged in any way

The relay for the power windows (Honda Part # 39794-S0K-A01 , found on another thread here) looked to be in bad shape so I went to Honda and picked up a new one, was about $8.90. When I went to pull the relay out- the old one basically fell apart. So im hoping that installing the new one would cause the #10-11 fuses to start getting power? Not sure how relays and all that really work.

Questions
Once I install the relay and new 20amp fuses on 10-11 i'll report back results with the test light. If nothing changes- what else should I start chasing down?

Former User

Install the relay and go from there. Also check whether 7.5A fuse 24 has voltage on both top test tabs.

NazVil86

RonJ@HT - I was hoping you'd chime in, a lot of my cars issues that Ive fix myself has had you replying to others on multiple forums.

So I just came back from inside- first off the 2 20Amp fuses for the power windows 10 and 11 were tested on my gf's car where a 20Amp fuse would go (just wanted to be sure they were good). So i put each one in, used the test light- both 20Amp fuses from my car were good.

Went back to my car- put in the new power window relay and wah lah- both 20Amp fuses on spots 10-11 lit up on both sides meaning no broken link. I turned off the car- hooked up both switches on driver side and passenger side, turned on the car- tested the 10-11 20Amp fuses again- both lit up and driver side works great- however passenger side is still not moving.

When I apply power to the window motor via car battery jump to the 2P connector- window goes up and down. I'm making progress but now im stuck on getting the passenger side to roll up or down. But since both fuses are working- relay seems to be great since the driver side works- Im assuming all I need now is a switch for the passenger side? (Which ive already found locally)

I dont have a multimeter or anything- Is there any way I can use a test light to see whats going on with the passenger side Ron?

Will return shortly with checking if #24 fuse (7.5A) has voltage or not

NazVil86

Back- Fuse 24 (7.5A for P/W Relay , S/R Relay) is actually a 10A fuse on my car...lights up on both ends though.

Fuse 23 (SRS) which should be a 10A fuse is a 15A fuse...no lights either (other problem ill deal with after this)

and just to be sure I checked fuse 25 (7.5A) for "Meter"...lights up on both ends. Ive gotten into the habit of checking fuses around the one im testing just to be sure.


Would the fact that fuse 24 is a 10A fuse instead of a 7.5A fuse be the issue? I checked my gf's car to see if it has any spare 7.5A fuses and her car doesnt use those sizes so I'll pick some up after work.

Former User

Install the properly rated fuses at all locations, but that's not the problem.

The fact that fuses 10 and 11 now get voltage verifies that fuse 24 is fine.

Make sure the main switch on the driver's master window switch is not toggled off.

If the main switch is on, then use your test light to determine whether the Grn/Blk wire in the unplugged passenger window switch has voltage with the key in ON(II).

NazVil86

To clear things up passenger side window wont roll up no matter if I use the driver side switch, or the passenger side switch.

Will go check Grn/Blk wire on passenger side window switch

Former User

Please reread my last post. There's more information there. First check the main switch.

NazVil86

Checked your last post.

I will get a 7.5A fuse after work tonight (actually supposed to be in by 4pm but eh)

I checked the driver side switch to see if the passenger side was locked- toggled one way- tried both switches, toggled another way, tried both switches- nothing.

I checked the Grn/Blk wire on passenger side window switch and test light lit up. with the key on the II mark. does this essentially mean that my passenger side switch is bad and thats all I need to replace?

Former User

A bad passenger switch is only one of several possible causes for the problem.

Since you don't have a multimeter to test the passenger switch, you need to test whether voltage reaches each wire terminal in the unplugged 2P connector to the passenger motor while holding the passenger switch in the UP or DOWN position. This is done with the key in ON(II).

Blu/Red wire should have voltage only with the switch in the UP position.

Blu/Wht wire should have voltage only with the switch in the DOWN position.

NazVil86

I knew I should have picked up that multimeter along with the test light I bought today.


So I can still use my test light to determine if voltage is reaching the 2p switch correct? Just got to work but I'll try this on my break hah, I'm determined to figure this out

Former User

Harbor Freight Tools sells an adequate digital multimeter for $4 on sale.

Yep

A few more tests and you'll know what the problem is.

NazVil86

Now quick question and I'll continue with what I did.

Was I supposed to leave the 2p plug connected while testing the wires? For some reason I disconnected mine.

So I hooked up the test light, did as u said. Blue/red should get a light in up position - nothing. Tested blue/white in down position - nothing.

I tested the wire right before the plug , and also put the probe in the female plug with the corresponding wire locations, no light either way. Was I supposed to leave the p2 plug connected then test wires before the plug?

Former User

The test should be done with the motor connector unplugged, both door window switches plugged in, and the key in ON(II).

If that's what you did, it's time to test the passenger door window switch using a multimeter.

NazVil86

Well the damn window fell off....I'm guessing bad regulator?

Sigh. I'll take it to a buddies place tomorrow and replace that on the driver side.

What tests to do on passenger switch panel?


Thanks for all the help today btw, greatly appreciate it

Former User

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