tegboy321

i was letting my friend torque down my head for me but i guess the bolts were old or he torqued it too much and it snapped right on the thread so theres nothing coming out of the block, i need it out or else i cant put the head back on, anyone have any ideas on how to do this or a link to a write up on this??

jbpnoman

The same way you remove ANY stripped/broken bolt - with an easy-out drill bit.

Mikey21

goggle easy out, you drill a hole in the bolt of the size of the easy out then tap the easy out into the bolt til its tight then turn it counter clock wise to remove it duude.or if your just **** scared to do it take the motor out the car and bring it to a machine shop but it's easy and i bet you guys can do it....goggle and youtube easy out.... ohh and the most important one make sure you get the right size drill bit to match the easy out so when you tap it in the bolt it'll be tight duude

99siky

What they said but also make sure that the bold snapped off evenly. Like as in not slanted. Because if you drill into it you have to be real careful not to drill into the threading. I did that once and it ruined the hole the bolt came from. I could not see it well and didn't tell it was too close to the threads until it was too late. Don't mean to scare you but you definitely need to watch that. That bolt will not torque right now. Intake manifold bolt though. Not head. Also on a 5.0 mustang. Same concept. I would also pick up brand new set of head studs and bolts while you are doing this. If they are old or whatever it would be a good time to replace them all. Honda dealership is your friend.

DanCan'tSwim

keep the metal shavings out of the head.
east Job tho. bought a cheap kit at harbor freight.

tegboy321

pheww got it done! lol i felt like i was defusing a bomb the whole time i was doing this, XD i was scared, lol anyways i have another question!
what are the most common couses for cylinder 1 and 4 to have low compression??

redm3turbo

^ did it just start the low compression? a crack in the head would cause low compression.
so would a bad/leaky headgasket. Worn out rings would though also. You should give more info regarding whats happening with the car otherwise.

did you torque down the headbolts to spec? Id check that first

tegboy321

no no this was before the head was removed as i got the car like that, and the car would turn on and everything but when i would take out spark plug wire 1 out the idle wouldnt change much, when i took out 2 and 3 it made a big difference as if the car was about to die (one wire at a time) then when it came to cylinder #4 thee car sounded the same, there was no difference, there was no smoking or anything, thats why i dont think its the rings but idk im confusedd

redm3turbo

hows the oil look? I always think headgasket first---

tegboy321

oil looked fine, it still looked fresh since i had just put new oil

redm3turbo

Id look into a compression test. You can rent them from pepboys or Ive seen them at harbor freight for under 20 bucks. That way you'd know exactly what your working with.
Without any other symptoms (milky oil, blowing smoke, lousy running, etc) I wouldn't worry much.
For piece of mind Id throw a tool on it and trust the readings before the, yank a spark plug wire (backyard mechanic) methods.

tegboy321

lol thats true, ill try to get one tomorrow asap and let ya know what comes up!

kwijibodavid

pull the plug out and inspect that probly a bad plug/wire the plug should be clean
see if its oily or smells like gas

fragmare

Regarding the low compression, have you checked the valve lash? Make sure it's all in spec before you run the compression test. If the valve clearance is too loose or too tight, it can cause a valve to stay open longer or shorter than it needs to and really screw up compression. I had one valve lash that was completely pinched shut (zero clearance) after installing a new head gasket... and i never even touched the locknuts or adjustment screws on the rocker arms.

Mikey21

i bet valves clearance or a crack valve...i had a crack valve before....yeah......it sucked...LOL compression test is the way to go but if you got an air compressor leak down test is better.If your doing a leak down test when shooting air in the cylinders take off the cap to the radiator and oil cap to see if you got bubbles if you got bubbles..well feel air coming out of the crack case it's your rings, if you see bubbles in your radiator fill hole or reservoir you got a cracked block or bad head gasket. Take off your air intake if you hear or feel air coming out of you intake manifold your intake valve is out of clearance or cracked valve. Go to your tail pipe if you hear/feel air coming out of your exhaust you exhaust valve is out of clearance or cracked. You got to check all of these for each cylinders. The gauge will tell you where the compression at in each cylinder for a compression tester only, A leak down will shoot air into the cylinder tell you how much compression it has and allow to to troubleshoot what I just said before to isolate and find whats faulty. LEAK DOWN TEST TELLS ALL!!! ALL KNOWING LEAK TEST!! How does it run any pinging coming from the head? lost of power?

Stanley670

Sorry to bring back this old thread but I desperately need help taken my snapped cylinder head bolt out. Please OP Or any expert here , I'm pulling my hair on this The easy-out drill bits mentioned here Or Left-hand drill bits I tried don't seem long enough to reach that broken bolt. Is there an extension drill bit or A longer version of Easy Out is used here which I miss.
I'd talked to a Mechanic and He suggested I swap Motor. I'd talked to a machine Shop, He suggested I bring him my engine block. Many Thanks in advance for any help !

black97civic

pull the head off and weld a nut to the bolt. Then heat the block around the bolt with a torch and screw it out.

Birdman98

Are you trying to reach this with the head still on the engine?

Stanley670

Thanks for replied Black97civic. I'm in same boat with OP here. On my Last Stage of 72.3 ft lbs Torque, Nature called and I responded and made a couple of iced lattes for me and my buddy who in his apologetic voice, " I snapped that freaking bolt ." I kicked myself for not hold'in just for 10 more minutes. LoL
Anyways, Head is off and I'd seen on YoutTube about weld a nut....to the bolt. Do I need to center-drill that broken bolt before (deeper) Nut (easy access) and Torch it ? Already broken a couple of my longest drill bits during drilling.

When I saw OP about EASY OUT seem so easy, but.......

Again thank-you Blackcivic

Stanley670

Are you trying to reach this with the head still on the engine?


No, Head is already off. Birdman98

crossing my fingers...........

Wish this is a caliber bolt or ....one of those rusty ......exhausted bolt

black97civic

No you don't have to drill a hole in the bolt. Just sit a nut on top and weld in the center. You don't have to worry about te weld sticking to the aluminum. It may take a couple times.

Stanley670

Alrighty .....thanks Blackcivic
Came across this forum when searching for help. Also came across this TIME-SERT Toyota Camry Rav 4 Head Bolt Kit M11 x 1.5 Part # 2200 (Honda version is available) Amazon Link (very good reviews and AM Not affiliated with this company ) in case anyone in same situation and need help ( still better than motor swap or engine block removal )