GodlikeGS-R

Rebuilt the calipers and put a new master in my 95 GSR.
I bench bleed the master then bleed the ABS module several times until my ate superblue came out.
Now not knowing exactly what I was doing I assumed the new brake fluid would force the old out of the module during the bleeding process maintaining the level in the module reservoir. I was wrong. The reservoir basically ran itself dry and the pump began to cavitate when I started the car. All that I am seeing is a cap on top of the reservoir covering a pin hole sized breather hole. This hole seems to have a check valve? I tried and failed to fill it there with a syringe. So my question is how do I replenish the fluid in this thing?
I pulled the ABS fuse and bleed the rest of the system so I could make it to an autocross yesterday. I couldn't seem to find a straight forward answer using the search.

slammedinteg

RELIEVE SYSTEM PRESSURE:
remove bleed screw cap from maintenance bleed screw on modulator. attach wrench to maintenance screw. connect a rubber tube of appropriate diameter to maintenance bleed screw and place other end in a suitable container. hold rubber tube and slowly loosen maintenance bleed screw 1/8-1/4 turn to drain brake fluid from modulator. after fluid stops flowing loosen bleed screw further to relieve pressure completely. tighten bleed screw

BLEEDING:
1) fill brake fluid res. to max level with new brake fluid. connect rubber tube with container to bleed screw. loosen the bleed screw and start engine to activate abs pump motor.
2) tighten bleed screw when fluid begins to flow from bleed screw. stop engine when ABS pump motor stops. if ABS indicator light illuminates and ABS pump motor stop. start engine and repeat procedure. ensure brake fluid level is at max level at all times.


i hope this helps you out if you have any problems let me know.

GodlikeGS-R

ok. I will try this asap. Thanks!

Solster

also don't forget that if the pump ran out of fluid you will need to make a few E-stops (25+ MPH and slam brakes) making the ABS kick in this will pump the air out. then rebleed the brakes.

i found this out the hard way on a 99 civic after talking with several ASE ABS techs turns out you need a Pressure bleeder to fully bleed an ABS pump if you don't first time you try to stop fast and the ABS kicks in it will pump air in the lines and you can loose all brakes.

JDMswagSerf

Sorry to bring up old thread. But about to embark on this oh so grateful journey here tomorrow. Been reading a few links on google, this one seems worthy.

This is what im dealing with, all hardlines on abs pump motor were unbolted, MC lines were un bolted. All for paint.

So in reply to the second comment. Do i have to start the car? Or just turn the key? (Car wont start yet) i can hear the pump when the key is on.

These are the steps ive concluded that i have to do
Someone PLEASE CORRECT me if im wrong.

Fill reservoir with clean fluid
Loosen ABS BLEEDER SCREW till all pressure is relived and fluid stops coming out.
Loosen ABS bleeder screw and turn key on to work the abs pump
Tighten abs screw when only fluid comes out
If abs motor stops and pure fluid isnt coming out, tighten screw, turn key off and repeat till pure fluid comes out.

Once pure fluid comes out of abs, blead brakes RR LF RR RF?


And do i have to bench bleed the MC?
Everything was perfect before removing. So it should all work, definately making a how to on this once i figure it out, cant find it online for abs

JDMswagSerf

Any one have any input?
Going to bench bleed the mc but still not sure about the abs stuff

kchungb17a

You do have to start the car to run the ABS pump. If your car can't start now, that's ok, just bleed the brakes at the calipers and you can bleed the pump later. This way you will at least have working brakes. And yes, you should bench bleed the MC.

Here is the bleeding instructions:

1. Fill reservoir to max. Connect rubber tube to bleed screw, emptying to a container. Loosen screw. Start engine to activate pump.

2. Tighten bleed screw when fluid begins to flow from the bleeder. Stop engine when pump stops. If ABS light is on and pump motor has stopped, repeat the procedure. Make sure to refill the brake fluid in between starts.

GL

JDMswagSerf

Okay. MC is bench bled.
Going to bleed all calipers till the car starts
RR LF LR RF correct.
And even if the pump isn't bled. Will in introduce any air that it currently has into the brake lines once the car is started? Thanks!

kchungb17a

I always do the rears first: RR LR RF LF but you should be able to go your way with no problems. If you are using a vacuum brake bleeder, I recommend finishing with a helper pumping the pedal. A vacuum brake bleeder is good at moving a lot of fluid but sometimes it doesn't get all the air out.

And the ABS pump will not bleed air into the brake lines. It won't interrupt the brake system until brake lock up is detected and only if it is in working order, so like I said, you can bleed at the calipers first.

JDMswagSerf

Okay I will do that today! Thank you