Ody tour

Bad news on that... Honda calls it a PCM... Everyone else and most mechanics call it an ecu... Its the Powertrain Control Module...
As far as a junk yard one, you'll get more headaches than its worth... Remember I used the term "known good"? How can it be known good if you don't know the history. AND like I said before, it may take the reloaded software and pass the diagnostics (like mine did) but still be causing the problem...
Bottom line is you MUST use a new "known good" (with a warrantee) PCM. You can't properly diagnose the problem without it.
Oh, and you MUST have it coded to your vehicles vin number and immobilizer systems for the car to ever work again. Guess where you have to take it for that. No one but a Honda dealership has the capability to code PCM.

If you google the code and "Honda fit" you will find a website with the diagnosis procedure that will tell you where everything is and what to do to test it. Otherwise, don't just go poking at the wiring harness. You can easily damage it and it's a 7-8 hundred dollar job to replace it... Get very small probes for your multi meter and don't jam them in there. The pins are very easily spread...

slowcivic2k

For future reference to this thread, the code that was produced is an electrical failure. If it was a mechanical problem it would produce an DTC relating to incorrect gear ratio, or sensor range/performance. The sensor most likely shorted its winding, creating excessive current back to the PCM, toasting the tracks. It would be good to verify this with the original sensor, as if you have a sensor wire shorting to power, the same thing will result again if the problem is a wire crossing in the harness.

Ody tour

Absolutely true... This cannot be an internal trans fault... Unless the tone ring is messed up. This has happened but is extremely unlikely. Most good mechanics can pull the sensor and look or feel in the hole to make sure the tone ring is still there.
In the odyssey, the main and counter shaft speed sensors are the same part number and are therefor interchangeable. The countershaft speed sensor is "known good" since you don't have any codes for it. It may be the same in yours too so check the part numbers. That will save you some cash if it's not the sensor and you can do it yourself.

george taylor

My head is spinning! I did end up replacing the sensor due to the fact I broke it getting it out. If I remember there were 2 part number for the sensors so I "assume" they are different. I did get 4. something volts out of the connector when I checked the other day. Can they check to see if the computer or what ever the hell they call it is bad if I were to take it out of the car? Or is that a bad idea? I would rather not take it to the dealer if I can avoid it, and it woudl take me 45 mins to drive since it will not go into 3rd. I did put up another post because my wife (who drive the car) told me that not only is the cel on , but after a short drive 8 to 15 miles, the "D" light starts to blink. And the plot thickens!

Ody tour

Yes the d light will blink because the cel is from a drivetrain issue... It's the same cause as long as the dtc you're getting is p0715 or p0718.
Did you get the troubleshooting procedure and follow it? It runs through a ton of wiring fault tests. In order to be able to eliminate potential culprits, this needs to be followed. You're looking for continuity in circuits between the ecu (PCM) and the sensor. Remember, the ecu (PCM) doesn't get a signal back from the sensor. It sends constant voltage (about 5 volts) to the sensor on the signal wire and when the tone ring turns, it grounds the signal circuit allowing power to flow. The sensor also has a power and ground wire which are share circuits with other sensors like the egr valve position sensor and others. Don't spend too much time wrapping your head around how it works... Just follow the procedure in the service book and post your results. We'll help you figure out what your findings mean if you like but replacing the sensor and eliminating the wiring as the issue are the first step... Then we'll worry about the dealer when we get there. Keep the receipts for the sensors too so if you end up needing to take it to the dealer, you can hopefully convince them not to try to just replace them again...
Good luck... Let us know how you make out...
PS: when I did the diag on mine I got all the readings I should have which indicated the computer and wiring was ok... Once I had the dealer do the diag on the wiring they said it was correct as well. Then I took it home and tested again and found that whoever did the diag at the dealer messed up my harness. I started getting gremlins all over the place and it turned out they spread a lot of the pin connectors while messing with it, causing them to not make contact all the time... Do the test yourself and document.....

slowcivic2k

That sensor is a VRS type, two wire setup: REF and COM. The voltage sent on this COM line is distorted by the tone wheel as it spins, producing an A/C style signal, this is how it determines shaft position/timing. The coil resistance will need to be check, if its too low, there will be too much current, and can burn the tracks on the sense circuit inside the PCM. If its too high it will simply not work correctly. MOST manufacturers try to gauge wire thickness in the coil correctly to act as a fuse should the winding short, preventing an over-amperage signal in the PCM by melting.

The troubleshooting procedure is very simple. unplug the PCM, and unplug the sensor in question, check both wires individually, from PCM to the engine harness side of the connector, for excessive resistance with a good meter, you should have around .5 Ohms or less. Also check these wires to ground, and to power and confirm the resistance is well over 5 Million Ohms. Then perform a resistance test on the sensor itself, between the two wires in the connector, record the reading and compare to spec, if you need it I can get it tomorrow. 99% of the time these two tests will reveal the problem. The only three unknowns are the REF voltage signal, if the PCM can convert the signal, and the distance between the sensor and the tone wheel. These three are unlikely, but possible. Do the tests above and let us know what you find.

Ody tour

Even better that it's the "older" 2 wire setup. It can be checked with an oscilloscope. Any good trans shop will be able to do this if you get frustrated and are ready to give up.
I assumed since the fit is real close in year to my odyssey that it would be 3 wire like mine. Most manufacturers will use the same engineering practices and suppliers for similar systems in all the cars they produce. In this case, that doesn't hold true. That's why forums are so important. We can all help each other to get to the bottom of an issue and although not one of us knows everything, collectively we do.
Pay attention to what he said about checking for resistance between the circuit and power and ground. That's what eliminates a short (crossed or exposed wires) as the problem. The resistance test on both ends of the same wire will eliminate an open (broken wire not touching anything else) or corroded connections.
You need to find an ecu (PCM) "pin-out". That will tell you exactly what row and how many pins over the wire you're looking for is. Again, be careful not to damage it. Since you broke your old sensor, I would say just skip messing with it. I would, however Suggest you do a resistance test on the new sensor before you install it. It's an electronic part which have, on occasion, been inop out of the box. It's just good info to have too, if you end up at a dealer and they insist it may still be the sensor.

george taylor

I guess it is time I get the repair manual for all the specs. Just so I know that I am getting the correct one, since the dealer does not have them, Helm Item/Part #: 61SAA00 ... Is that the correct one? They have a trans manual but I think the factory service manual would be the best one to get.

george taylor

I finaly have an update. I had to wait to get a new OBDII tester, my old one would not read the new CAN protocol. I think as of tonight it was 2 problems combined. I did replace the sensor and was finaly able to clear the code and checked the fluid level. It was only about 1/2 quart low. I drove the car for about 15 miles going up some prety steep hills and seems to shift fine. If this does the trick I will have the trans flushed and refilled. I wil let you know tomorow.

george taylor

I finaly fixed the damn thing. I thought I had fixed it wih the fluid, drove the car nearly 20 miles goin up some steep hills, but nope. I ended up going through the testing procedures and came to what I thought/think is a miss print in the service mannual. It asked you to test the voltage at the PCM and asks do you get 0 volts of about 5 volts. What is is suposed to be? I did see in the book questions asking you if it was a specific voltage (0 or about 5) but not both and ones that ask if you et a voltage in a range (1.3-3.4 volts for example). The dealership that I go to could not even answer that and would not admit they did not know, the just gave me some lame excuse. So I bought the $17 sensor a gave it a chance. So far so good. Thanks for the help guys.

UncleB1971

Which sensor was the problem?