d.hester215

Hey guys I don't know too much about cars so need help trying to pinpoint this problem rather than paying tons of money to a mechanic for things that aren't even wrong with my car!! My car ran perfectly when I bought it,but a couple a months ago, I had a new experience. I went to start my car, and it would rank and everything and start, but then it would struggle at idle in park for a second or two (heavy shaking/vibration), and then it would shut off, although the dashlights and everything stay on. Sometimes after a bunch of tries it would start and hold enough for me to be able to drive off, and when I drive a little while, it idles fine! Lately I would force the RPMs my accelerating, then then switch to drive gear in order to get it going out of idle. After having this problem for a few months, I've noticed that this problem ONLY OCCURS after ive driven the car for a lengthy distance, maybe 20+ miles, shut the car off, and then come back within 20-30 minutes or so and try to start the car again. So I'm thinking maybe the problem has to do with the car having power/electric problems? Because I've noticed that when the car is running sometimes the headlights dim for a second or two on their own, also, when I put down multiple windows at a time, all of the car lights interior and exterior dim. Do these clues show that there is some kind of power issue in my car?? I've also gotten the check engine light several times when my car struggles at idle, but when I get it going for a while, the light goes away. I've had it ran, and it said I have multiple random cylinder misfires out of 5 of the 6 of my cylinders I believe. with all this information given, do any of you have any idea what my problem could be??? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

jdowen2

Take you car to AutoZone or similar establishment and have them test your alternator. Get a battery test while you are at it.If those test good you may have sensor problems.

d.hester215

I had my battery tested and it came back 75% charged and I believe my alternator tested good as well I checked both. What sensor are you talking about that could be bad?

seanbev24

Set a multimeter to read volts. With the car running and the high beams on, touch the red meter lead to the battery positive terminal, black lead to negative terminal. What is the voltage reading?

d.hester215

I don't have a multimeter at the moment, but I can get one tomorrow, please stay tuned with me it would be greatly appreciated!

jsi4u2nv

Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm wondering if anyone knows the answer to the original posters issue. My niece's 2000 accord v6 has the same hard start/low idle stumble after the car has been driven then sit for a few minutes. Exactly as the original poster problem to the tee. Car starts and runs fine when cold. Issue only exists when car is warm and has been sitting for a few. Like when returning after a short shopping trip. No electrical issues though. Multiple cylinder misfire codes pop up after the low idle stumble. Otherwise no other codes and car runs great when it does start. Please help. I'm desperate to fix this issue considering my niece is pregnant and close to her due date. Thanks in advance.

holmesnmanny

Try this. Drive the car and warm it up good. Turn it off. After about five minutes take off the vacuum hose that runs from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold and smell it. If it smells like fuel the fpr is bad.

Just a wild guess.

If the vacuum hose doesn't smell like fuel, the car will normally test the egr system on a warm startup. If the ports and egr valve is clogged it could run rough. If the first test is good. Clean out the egr ports. That may fix it. This is only true if it only acts up on a warm startup.

You can find howto threads on how to clean out your egr ports for your car.

Alo Lo

PROBLEM SOLVED!

The problem was the ignition coil!

The obd tool showd multiple misfires, but after watching this video I found ONLY ONE to be defective


Had it replaced, no more blinking check engine, no more rough idle, stuttering, its running better than ever!

Dont go by the obd tool for which cylinder is misfiring, you have to check them all to see which one is bad

Could also be related to spark plugs, but I had the iridium by ngk and checked them and they were all like new

Could also be the spark plug wire!

But for me this one coil was defective!

Kymberly

OMG....this is exactly what my 2000 accord V6 is doing! Only happens when engine is good and hot....I stop at a store or something and come out and it doesn't want to start. ....have to Rev the engine to like 3000 rpms....hold it there for a minute and hurry and get into gear.....once I am going down the road a couple miles it seems fine. My check engine light comes on when it does this and sends Multiple misfire codes....could it really be just one ignition coil?

Kymberly

But was yours having the problem of only doing it when starting up and engine was hot?

tamboo

possible answer: bad main relay or engine coolant temp sensor.
both are cheap and relatively easy to replace. test first if possible.

MAD_MIKE

It is a thermal failure. When the engine at full operating temperature and then shut off the highest temps that will be underhood are when the engine has just shut off and the engine bay heatsoaks. Opening the hood to release the built up heat may reduce the time needed to restart the car.

Also you will need to test suspect components when they are heatsoaked. As they will most likely check out fine when cold.

poorman212

Don't forget that many of the early 6th gen v6's have an issue with vapor lock - really shows up with the winter blend gas