pityocamptes

I wonder if I bitch to honda if they might do something or blow me off? The vehicle only has 86K miles, has been maintained, and now because of a design flaw the ECU might be toast??

Former User

Besides a bad ECU, there's only one other possible cause of the problem - an open in A15 pin inside the ECU connector or bad connection between this A15 connector pin and the ECU. Check this possibility by visual inspection and Ohm testing.

Considering that a bad ECU is the most likely possibility, start by opening it up and checking for any obvious damage or burnt components.

Former User

You HAVE found the problem already. Stay focused there.

pityocamptes

Ok, will do. Can you explain how to remove the ECU? I only saw a few bolts holding it together. Do I pull the ECU and ABS module out as one? I assume I need to disconnect the batt as well? Thanks! I may for ***** and giggles bitch to Honda anyway. This is BS.

pityocamptes

Check for an OHM value on the male ECU side, or the female connector/wire side for A15, or both? If I check for an OHM value on the wire side, do I ground something at the other end, of so what, to measure OHM values or open circuit??

Former User

Former User

Disconnect connector and Ohm test from front to rear of connector for A15.

pityocamptes

Thanks, will do!!! I just faxed a bitch letter to Honda. I'm curious to see if they will respond. Nothing ventured nothing gained, but I'm not holding my breath. If I hear anything back I'll post it...

Former User

Good luck with the fix and letter.

pityocamptes

I'm probably going to pull the ECU this Friday and take a look at the board, etc. If for some reason it is worse than I thought, or no apparent damage is detected, can anyone recommend a good company that is inexpensive that will either fix my board or sells refurbished ones? I assume that is I get a refurbished board that the mileage and VIN, etc have to be flashed onto the new board, correct? Do they just ask you this info, or do you have to produce something? Thanks again!!

pityocamptes

On a 1998 Honda Civic EX w/VTEC

I went through the dealer manual, stepping through procedures to narrow down a CEL cause, and it seems to point to a faulty ECU. I basically have a few questions before I open up the ECU this weekend.

I should preface this, with that a refurbished ECU seems pretty expensive, so I want to make sure that I really need a new ECU...

So here goes:

If the ECU is bad (this is in regards to CEL P1457) will I see burnted traces, or is this not always true?

How hard is it to diagnose that the ECU is indeed bad - can I do some simple tests with a multimeter - and if so how?

Anything else that I may have overlooked? Thoughts? Thanks!

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

When you jump the service connector does the cel stay solid?

pityocamptes

Not sure what you mean by this? I was using a code scanner to pull the CEL code. Should I do something else? If so, can you give me the procedures? Thank you!

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Check the stickys at the top of the section it shows you how to retrieve obd1 trouble codes. I know your car is obd2 but it works the same way

pityocamptes

Here are the procedures I did, stepping through the manual. Since I don't have an extra ECU laying around, and I plan on keeping this vehicle until it absolutely ***** out, I was going to get a refurbished ECU. Its really been a good car, and has very low miles. I just want to make absolutely sure it is the ECU before spending the money, only to find out it wasn't and perhaps something else???

pityocamptes

Ok, I will do that, but will that show me that the ECU is bad? If so how?? Thanks again!

pityocamptes

OK, i went outside and jumped the connector. The CEL flashes. I already know what the problem is (code P1457) I just need to know how to determine if the ECU is bad. Any test for the ECU that a DIYer can do?

pityocamptes

I see where Honda has a TSB but it only goes up to 1997. I got off the phone with Honda Corp with regards to the P1457 code and they told me to go pound sand. From my diagnosis and other members help it looks like it may be the ECU. This sucks. Not only will I not pass emissions, but now I need to get a new/rebuilt/used ECU. Such BS from Honda...


I wonder if they have an extended emissions for 1998's?


*(I accidentally put this in the Accord forum... )

Former User

How many miles on your car? The warranty covers 96-99 Civics, though not all trims.

pityocamptes

Its a 1998 honda civic with 86K original miles. The guy from Honda Corp told me it was only for hondas up to 1997. Did he lie? Do you have something in writing you could attach so that I could show them when I call back up?

Former User

Let me check my paper work at home.

94EG8

Really? Really?

It's a 14 year old car that's been out of warranty for 9 years! How is that unreasonable on their part?

pityocamptes

Well I can see a sensor crapping out, but a sensor crapping out and frying the ECU seems to me to be a design failure...

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Not really.
I don't recall anywhere that there was only a set number of ways a car was allowed to breakdown.

94EG8

Or, you know, an isolated incident. I've very rarely seen a Honda ECU go bad.

Btw, if you think that's bad dodge used to put the voltage regulator for the alternator in the ECU. When it died (and they did, we had it happen on a '91 Dakota) you had to replace the ECU, or wire in an external regulator (what we did, but it still left us with a CEL for the bad voltage regulator) It was otherwise a great truck though, one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever seen.

Sorry for the offtopic rambling.