AFAccord

Hello all. I've been on hiatus from working on cars for a while now, but I'm itching to tinker a bit, and I've decided to try my luck with forced induction.
The goal:

-Rebuild new bottom end for FI.
-Keep it simple, keep it reliable. Driveablity is key.
-Try not to cut corners, while keeping it budget minded.
-Low/High boost setup, 230-240 low boost, 300-310 high boost (Update 01/09/12 - Since I've purchased forged rods, I would like to shoot for 370-380whp @ high boost but keep the low boost around 250whp. I might like to hit 400whp on the dyno if the motor feels good enough)
-Possibly run E85 (Update 01/09/12 - Ruled this out due to lack of availability outside of SC)

The clay:

-2000 Accord Coupe
-OBD1 conversion tuned with eCtune
-A couple F23 long blocks with a plethora of Prelude/GSR/H22 parts

Tentative plan:

-Off the shelf pistons @ 86.5mm (forged internals are a f***in' rip-off for this engine) (Update 01/09/12 - Went with Wiseco K568M865 forged pistons for K20)
-ACL main/rod bearings and thrust washers, all new OEM oil pump, water pump, belts, etc. (Update 01/09/12 - Strongly considering against using the ACL bearings due to better sizing availability from OEM bearings)
-ARP head/main bolts from H23 (Update 01/09/12 - Strongly considering against using ARP main bolts due to necessity of align honing and again, likely won't have correct clearances with the ACL bearings)
-Use the crank and rods of the best condition from the blocks I already have. (Update 01/09/12 - Using previous stock block and crank that I ran in the car for 40k+ miles. Pulled this block due to worn rings burning oil, but no other issues)
-Use stock F23 head, IM/TB to retain reliability and cruise. (Update 01/09/12 - Likely going to send stock TB to Maxbore and have local shop port match plenum)
-T3/T04 60 trim turbo

Parts List: continuously updated

-Cast Log Turbo Manifold Purchased
-ACL Race Main Bearings Purchased
-ACL Race Rod Bearings Purchased
-ACL Thrust Washers Purchased
-Tial 38mm WG Purchased
-Walbro 255lph HP Fuel Pump Purchased
-ARP H23 Head Studs Owned
-ARP H23 Main Studs Purchased
-Bisimoto TI valve springs/retainers owned
-Forged pistons Purchased
-Billet connecting rods Purchased
-AEM UEGO Wideband Purchased
-2 Gauge Pillar Pod Purchased
-OEM IM Gasket Purchased
OEM Gaskets for IM/TB/Head Purchased
-ID1000cc injectors Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-Front mount charge-air cooler Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-OEM Oil pump
-Innovate Motorsports Water Temp Gauge
-Oil feed line Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-Oil return line Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-Oil pan return fitting Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-MFactory H22 LSD Purchased
-Electronic Boost control solenoid Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-Vacuum Manifold Purchased from GO-Autoworks
-Kaisenspeed Balance Shaft Delete Kit Purchased
-Mini-Ram Turbo Manifold
-Blow-off valve
-OEM Timing belt
-OEM Headgasket
-Bisimoto 2.4 cam
-IC piping
-Down pipe
-Precision SC50 turbo (Update 01/09/12 - See notes above)
-ACT HA3-XTG6 Clutch kit
-ACT Streetlite Flywheel



This is just a start to get things off the ground. *I need to work on a parts list for the turbo components and a list of labor/services that would be prudent to putting together a well-assembled block. *More to come. *Critique and comments are appreciated...

SQ is the SQUAD

subscribed

AFAccord

Timeline:

7 Nov 2011
-Bare block, crank, oil pan dropped off at local race shop for cleaning, boring to 86.5mm, hone, flat decking, straightening, balancing, general inspections.

14 Nov 2011
-Pulled radiator, PS pump, and cam.
-M2S4 Trans is tentatively sold, still need to pull it.

17 Nov 2011
-Pulled the longblock and trans

20 Nov 2011
-Sold the trans
-cleaned up the garage*
-put wheels back on car so I can roll it around.

25 Nov 2011
-Purchased forged pistons
-Purchased billet rods

Dec 2011
-H23 Plenum and S2 TB is sold

8 Jan 2012
-Pressure washed and degreased engine bay

9 Jan 2012
-Spoke with KS and JD about build
-Decided to use OEM bearings and OEM main bolts
-ARP main studs and ACL bearings up for sale
-Decided to use stock F23 IM, trumpeting runner ports in the plenum, port match to TB

26 Feb 2012
-Disassembled Head
-Dropped KS BS Delete kit at shop for install
-Cleaned Garage


4 March 2012
Purchased:

-OEM Oil Pump Assembly
-OEM Main Bolts
-OEM Crank Dampener Pulley
-OEM Valve seals all around
-OEM Oil Seal for the cover on the trans side
-OEM Crank Pulley Bolt

7 April 2012
-Smoothed edges on piston crowns and resurfaced the faces
-Identified improper ring gap for first and second rings on all four pistons

9 April 2012
-Machine shop ordered new rings and agreed to regrind them.

15 April 2012
-Checked main bearing clearances with plastigage
-Considerig larger P2W clearances

26 August 2012
-MFactory LSD Arrived
-Innovate Water Temp Gauge Arrived
-Tore down transmission, cleaned and painted housings
-Tore down alternator, cleaned and painted housings

AFAccord

15 Nov 2011 -

I pulled the radiator last night. It's had some gunk in it for a while now, so I don't think I'll be reusing it. I'd like to replace it with a half-size aluminum rad, but that mostly depends on how much that costs. I'm not really interested in the bling factor.

I don't expect this build to be anything innovative or particularly special. I just want to do things right, document it thoroughly and clearly, and not have to redo any mistakes later on.

With the old saying, you have cheap, fast, and reliable. Pick two. I'm picking fast and reliable, but with a few limitations. The block I'm assembling will have all new parts with the exception of crank, rods, sleeves, and maybe oil pan. Sensors, pumps, belts, and all small components will be new OEM Honda. I've already spent around $360 at Majestic Honda for new gaskets, bolts and seals, and expect that to grow to around $800.

For the sake of reliability I am using forged pistons, but for my modest power goals and sheer cost, I'm not considering forged F23 rods at this point. I don't mind spending small chunks of money here and there to address the details, but I have a hard time justifying $1400 for just rods and pistons. For a while I had considered buying an F22a non-VTEC long block since the cost of the block plus forged rods and pistons would be less than the F23 rods and pistons. I would even buy a new OBD1 engine harness to make everything plug and play, but I'm pressing on with the F23 because I already have two mostly-complete F23 long blocks and close to $1000 in Bisimoto parts for the head. I haven't yet decided exactly which pistons I'm going to use. I've contemplated Wiseco K20 9:1 pistons, Wiseco K20 flat top pistons, K20a3 forged rods, stock F23 rods, and every combination of those. I'm close to just saying screw it and just get the CP pistons, even though I prefer Wiseco's oiling design, coated skirts and cheaper price.

AFAccord

15 Nov 2011 -

No real updates, but here's where I'm at currently. Small one-car garage, ghetto flood light, and some hand tools.

AFAccord

16 Nov 2011 -

Got most of stuff off the block tonight. Pulled the axles out of the hubs, pulled the engine harness off, and pulled the header off. Hopefully I'll have some help tomorrow to pop the axles out of the tranny and half-shaft, unbolt the motor mounts and pull the motor and tranny all together. We'll see how this goes...

AFAccord

17 Nov 2011 -

It's out! And so is my left arm for the time being...

AFAccord

17 Nov 2011 -

Even though our large stroke engines don't lose too much by dropping compression, I really would prefer not to go down to 8.5. I'm curious whether some Wiseco forged 9:1 K20 pistons would fit without clearance issues. If they did, it would bring the F up to an even 10:1, which is closer to what I'd like. Guess I'll be mock-fitting my stock K20 pistons here soon. If they can fit without issue, then it might be safe to assume the Wisecos will fit too.

AFAccord

New goodies....

AFAccord

27 Nov 2011 -

Had a busy weekend with family, but managed to slip away for a few hours to sandblast and repaint my valve cover. The photo isn't very true to the color (Burnt Copper Metallic), but it is very pretty in person. I think this will work well to contrast with flat black block and manifolds.

AFAccord

27 Nov 2011 -

Went ahead and splurged. Bought my pistons and rods tonight...

Pistons are Wiseco, #K568M865 for K20
86.5mm
-9cc dish
Nitrided rings
Coated skirts
They're designed to give the K20 a 9:1 ratio, but they should make 10.1ish compression in the F23.

Rods are Crower billet, #B93749B-4 for F23

Bill came out just over $1200 with shipping from Raceeng.

AFAccord

30 Nov 2011 -

New goodies today!

AFAccord

4 Dec 2011 -

New goodies!

AFAccord

5 Dec 2011 -

Doh!! Looks like I was about a week early ordering these. Bisi just announced his custom piston/rod combo for $400 less than what these cost me. Hopefully Raceeng will live up to their stellar customer service reputation, and let me return these...

I'm satisfied and confident with the parts I have, but I have a hard time not going for this setup with the upgraded wrist pins, ceramic coating and longer rods (better r/s) for almost $200 less.

AFAccord

8 Dec 2011 -

I'm going to surface and prep the pistons really well following the link below, and I'm tempted to get the crowns ceramic coated afterwards, but I feel bad enough with the amount of money I've spent already. I'm reconsidering my HP goals too since these rods are so manly (no pun intended), but I'm still weary about how much the cylinder liners will handle after being bored .5mm over. Honda's specs say .25mm is the limit, but we know that's not entirely accurate.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/en...ppistons1.html

h22a2JZGTE

subscribed, not too many people do a properly built f23 FI build, cant wait to see how it all goes togehter and how it turns out

Andryzzle

in for the build

GhostAccord

Look'n pretty sweet so far

AFAccord

No real progress so far. Block is at the shop still, and no new parts because of the Holidays. I've been working on my retrofit little by little, but still need to do lots of research on LED wiring before I can finish them and seal them up.

AFAccord

I know most everyone is 'here' for the engine build, but I'm also tracking my restoration progress. Weathered lights, oxidized paint, cracked wiring and other things on the 225K mile chassis need attention too. I'm hoping most of the work will be finished by the time the engine goes in.

Pics of the retro...

Dremel'd out the first 'ring' inside the reflector where the tabs of the 9006 bulb mount


From the back


Different angle


High-beam solenoid wires


Need to put this through that little hole


Tada!!


We're in!


Now for the big fella




Now from the back


Now take this ring


Put it here


And tighten


Bulb goes in


This ring secures it in place


Set to go


Lovely


Now setup your test stand




On your mark...


Adjust accordingly


Good enough for government work, let's seal her up


And make it pretty

Andryzzle

How did you decide on the higher level cam? Here's some dyno results from a 1.2 install:

He later mentions it was the the 1.2 and valve springs.

AFAccord

Until the one you posted, I had heard nothing but mixed results with the 1.2 regrind, making it not worth the money. Here's the article that swayed me, though...

http://www.superstreetonline.com/tec...c/viewall.html

I may have to reconsider the 1.2 since I prefer not to rev my build much higher than stock if possible.

Andryzzle

I'd love to see that sort of comparison for the f series...

Anyway, the build is looking good. I see you sold your trans, stock f23 one going back in?

Hairnandez

looking good jason, i remember you with more hair though. Hope it comes back

-Brice

AFAccord

Yep, H23 hybrid trans is gone. Going to a stock F23 trans, shot peened gears, shafts, and shift arms, MFactory LSD and ACT clutch kit. Not sure about flywheel yet.


Yeah Brice, the chair force has been pretty stressful on me over the past few years. Looks like I might try some rogaine here soon to see if any of it comes back.