hatchdrvr

I am wrapping up my OBD1 h22 swap into my 97 LX. WHen I turn the key to the third position the dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes. The problem is when I try to turn it over. All it does is click and the power goes out. No dash lights no radio, nothing. Anyone have any ideas? The started does not even try to turn over. BTW I am using the Accord trans with the starter that worked prior to the swap.
TIA

Update: turns out to be a bad jumper harness. Replaced jumper harness and she fires right up. Idles rough though. Getting code 10 for IAT and code 41 for heated O2. I managed to get the coolant bled today and tried swapping the O2 sensor plugs. Just in case the plug it was connected to was not the primary O2 sensor. I am still getting the code 41 after that, so I will try a different O2 sensor. I will check to make sure I didn't reverse the IAT and the IACV plugs tomorrow. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Update2: IAT code has mysteriously disappeared and after some extensive reading I discovered that apparently my Accord LX uses a lower powered O2 sensor heater because the sensor sits closer to the engine on the exhaust manifold than the EX or the Prelude. So I ordered a new Denso O2 sensor with a higher output heater. Hopefully it will solve my code 41 problem and will solve my idle and stalling problems.

phootbag

Check for a voltage drop in the man cables and connections. It sounds like a total loss of voltage.

phootbag

Main, not man.. .

v4lu3s

most likely bad ground....

hatchdrvr

that was my first thought. Where are all of the grounds at? I hooked up the ground on the intake manifold and the one on the driver's side mount.Am I missing any?

abs0Lut

Should be one on the passengers side off the tranny?

bdmlilburn

yes there should be one going from the tranny to the frame next to the passenger headlight/negative battery terminal.

megomaniac

test the starter? or battery?

v4lu3s

also make sure your connection on the battery is good on both terminals. not loose, not just touching but tightened down terminals.

hatchdrvr

Double checked all of my grounds. Now it cranks, but doesn't start. I'm going to check the spark and make sure my distributor is working.

nus_dogg

When the power cuts out like that, it's usually the connections at the battery posts. Make sure your Negative battery terminal is tight on the battery posts. Make sure it's not corroded, pitted, and that it's good contacts.

hatchdrvr

I did that. That and checked the grounds. It fixed that problem. The motor cranks now but no spark. I had to rewire dizzy for the internal coil. I will have to check that I'm getting power to the dizzy and then work from there.

nus_dogg

Huh. So are you OBD1 converted or still OBD2 with the H swap?

hatchdrvr

OBD1 using OBD2 accord harness and jumper harness. JDM OBD1 P13 ECU.

nus_dogg

I was told to run OBD1 distributor, OBD1 Injectors, and OBD1 ECU. But when I did a JDM GSR OBD2 swap in my bro's '96 EK Hatch and when we converted it to OBD1, all I did was ran a OB2DA to OBD1 Jumper Harness and a OBD1 P28 ECU. No injectors or distributor needed.

I would look at your distributor wiring. You still running the OBD2 dizzy?

hatchdrvr

Everything is obd2. I'm going to check dizzy wiring.

hatchdrvr

Ok. I am getting 12v to the black/yellow wire on the distributor plug with the key in the third position. So, I am getting power to the dizzy. What else should I be checking?

phootbag

Are there any dtc's ?

hatchdrvr

I don't think so. When I jump the blue connector on the passenger side the CEL lights up solid with the key in the 3rd position. It does the same without the jumper.

v4lu3s

so when you turn your car on does the check engine light come on then turn back off like it is supposed to? or is it always on?

hatchdrvr

When I turn the key to the third position all of the warning lights in the cluster are lit. Oil,battery, and CEL stay on.

ETA On a whim I decided to try the accord obd2 ECU and it fired up. It idled like crap and I got the expected CEL. So I guess the issue might be in the jumper harness or ECU.

hatchdrvr

So what's the best way to determine whether or not it is the conversion harness or ECU?

v4lu3s

test the ecu in an obd1 car, and if possible test a known good obd1 ecu on your harness in your car (doesnt matter what one jsut to see if it cranks and fires)

hatchdrvr

OK I checked for reference voltage at the TPS with both ECUs. I was getting 5v from both and 12v at the distributor. Does this sound like the jumper harness might be bad? If the ECU was fried, I shouldn't be getting any voltage at the sensors, correct?

holmesnmanny

If you want to test the TPS cut the middle wire a little ways back and test on 20 for voltage with the key to on(without starting the car) obviously with the connector plugged in.

It should read .50 at closed throttle and 4.5 at wot. Check as you open it that the voltage gradually increases and there are no bad spots.

Even if it's bad it won't affect starting the car.