coco718

i have a 2003 civic ex coupe that has a loud klunk noise when i first go in reverse and when i turn the wheel to the left. i have already changed the cv axles because the boots were torn but the problem seems like it got worse after i changed them. the alignment is off pretty bad as well. please help as im not sure what it can be? thanks so much!

lazlong

Inspect the bushings and ball-joint. Could also be the top mount (on top of the strut assembly where it attaches to the tower). If it's none of those check your motor mounts.

coco718

when i was changing the axles i messed up the balljoint bushing and had replaced the bushing with another one. The balljoint had alot of play in it and im not sure if it is suppose to?

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

The balljoint is supposed to rotate around, but not clunk. Any sign of lifting inside the joint itself, is a sign of them being worn out.

coco718

well when i was changing the axles the right side ball joint was very hard to get off to change the axles but the left side came right off. could that also be a sign of it being bad?

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Not really, no. If you destroyed the boot during removal, you should have replaced the joint anyways.

honda250r&crx

Are all of your motor mounts in good condition? Make sure your transmission mount is good or all bolted up because the guy I bought my car from left some bolts out of the rear mount (One off the T bracket and one that goes through the rear mount) and it made a clunking noise mainly when I went in reverse, and when I didn't shift extremely smooth.

coco718

Yes all of the motor mounts have been changed and the trans is fine. I will be changing the ball joint today or tomorrow after work and I will keep everyone posted. Thanks again for all the help!

coco718

I changed the ball joint and its still doing the same noise. Could it be the lca bushings?

anibis

How do the LCA bushings look? is there any play when you jack up the RF try to move the wheel by hand? If they're bad enough to clunk there should be a little play where the LCA is bolted to the frame. It should clunk when going straight if you hit a bump if this were the problem as well.

Could be a bad RF wheel bearing.

coco718

i inspected the lca bushing and the one closer to the front bumper is cracked and worn. The sound kinda sounds like a metal to metal sound, and there is not much play at all when i jack up the car and try and move the wheel. The sounds always happens when i first go in reverse from park and usually on a left slow turn. would a bad wheel bearing sound like that?

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried starting the car, whilst having it on jack stands? That way you could pinpoint noises from under the car.

anibis

Yeah my bushings are cracked too, they need to be replaced eventually but that doesn't mean they're bad. Like I said it should also make the clunk noise over bumps if the LCA bushings were the problem.

Does the noise occur when you turn without moving? Or is it only happening in motion?

The turning thing is what makes me thing its a wheel bearing, that's a classic symptom. Doing it in reverse isn't common but would make sense because the bearing goes forward 99% of the time. The wheel bearing prob failed when driving forward and the ball bearings inside the wheel bearing got stuck going that way.

I would put it up on jack stands like toyo said, chock the rear tires, start the car and put it in reverse and see if it still makes the sound. If it does then it's the wheel bearing. If it doesn't it could still be a wheel bearing and it needs the weight of the car on it for the noise to occur.

MattieEM2

hey guys, just thought i'd say that my problem (with the similar symptoms) was my control arm needed replacing. Got it replaced... no more knock.

thetechguyz

Clunk noise.

Blown out lower control arm bushing.
Bad Strut?
Too much play in the ball joint?

break out the check list ya know. I had all three LOL

coco718

the noise only happens when the car is moving i believe and does it over some bumps not all. i think its the lca and im going to change it. will let u know

mskansan

All replies are a pretty good place to start but none of them actually followed through on a complete front end diagnosis.



Vehicle should not be on or engine running. First, lift the vehicles front tires off the ground using two jack stands in the front on the lifting points of the chassis and be sure to engage hand/emergency brake and chock/block rear wheels. Let's check the steering rack tie rods/tie rod ends (tie rods are connected to the steering rack). Second, stoop down next to one of the front wheels. Now place your hands on the tire in a 3 o'clock(right hand) and 9 o'clock (left hand) position, like your grabbing a 45lbs. lifting plate for squat rack. Third, this is very important DO NOT GRIP THE TIRE WITH TOO MUCH FORCE/EFFORT.... Now, GENTLY push the tire with one hand and GENTLY pull with the other hand, alternating the push/pull effort between both hands. It is IMPORTANT to remember that too little effort is much better than too much effort during the gripping and alternating push/pull effort technique. This check is putting effort on the ball-socket joint inside the tie rod and tie rod end. If it is worn out or loose you will feel the wheel/tire moving freely (loose-feeling) left and right during your 3 and 9 o'clock tie rod check. If you push/pull the wheel left or right too far with one hand you will notice there is a considerable increase in effort needed to continue moving the wheel, because the engine is not driving the power steering pump; so there is no power assist (power steering pumps can generate upwards of 200-300 psi) you will definitely notice the "looseness" from the intial check. If you feel "looseness" there are a few parts to inspect. The first part is called an outer tie rod end, It would be best to have a friend to perform the push/pull check while you inspect the tie rod end for movement. During the push/pull check look at the strut assembly, follow the strut assembly down past the spring seat/perch about an inch you will notice an arm welded to it. This is where the tie rod end is located, you will notice a rubber boot(may be missing-if missing there will be a greasy mess). You will notice the ball-socket type joint shift left and right. If there is movement there you will need to replace your outer tie rod end. May not be a bad idea to pick up an inner tie rod while your at the parts store to save yourself a trip back and forth just in case. During the outer tie rod end replacement check the inner tie rod by removing the outer tie rod end, then remove bellows boot(looks like a long, skinny cv axle boot, if oil is inside the bellows boot you have a power steering rack leak,power steering rack will need replacement depending on severity of leak-amount of fluid found in bellows boot); pull the exposed arm in and out while paying attention to the ball-socket type joint on the steering rack, when moving the arm around it should be fairly tight (lift the inner tie rod toward the sky, it should pretty-much stay in the upward position or any other position, if not make sure you check the joint thoroughly). Obviously if loose replace the inner tie rod(rarely goes bad but just in case). Now put everything back together, tighten all the bolts and nuts. Now perform the push/pull check again to check for looseness or play.

Now, let's move on!! Time to check the infamous ball joint. This model civic has a McPherson strut type suspension and to test/check the ball joint the vehicle needs to be lifted in the air and the suspension unloaded(no weight on the lower control arm which has the ball joint bolted through it. Ok you will need a 12-18" inch pry bar preferably a name brand made pry bar(they can handle more pressure without bending). Inspect the ball joint boot for tears or leaks(honda sells the boot seperately-replace if needed). Now, place the pry bar inbetween the lower control arm and the bottom very edge of the steering knuckle (notice the top of the ball joint, the ball joint is pressed in to the knuckle, this is the edge im refering to). Now, be careful not to damage the ball joint boot with the pry bar when inserting it. Now, move the pry bar up or down with moderate force, at the same time pay attention to the ball joint. If the ball joint is loose or worn out it will "shift" or seemingly "pop up" when you apply pressure. Remember light to moderate pressure is the key, especially with these ball joints they tend to flex if too much pressure is applied to the ball joint and you misdiagnose it, remember to look for the ball joint to "shift" or "pop up" when pressure is applied. Replace the ball joint if necessary, if its not loose good because its not fun to change without air tools.

Now for the lower control arm bushings, you have two types of bushings on this model of civic. Normally, the big horizontal bushing is the culprit for poor alignment, vehicle shimmy, steering shimmy, improper tire wear, UNUSUAL CLUNKING NOISES (metal to metal type). You will need a larger pry bar to check these bushings 24"-60" inch. Place pry bar in between lower control arm and subframe, now lift up on pry bar. If the bushing has small cracks (only 1-2mm deep) in it, it will be fine. But if the bushings has deeper cracks, it will break sooner than later or if the bushing breaks while you pry on it, it was on its last legs anyway(remember it needs to be able to flex, support vehicle weight, and handle torsion or torque. With that being said, you prying on the control arm is not a big deal. Remember to check all the way around the bushing and underneath it. If broken obviously replace it.

Now check the sway bar links if you have them. Use a small pry bar 12-14"inch. Place prybar inbetween sway bar and subframe and pull the pry bar down, at the same time inspect the the ends of the sway bar links(opposite side of the nuts, where the rubber boots are), you are looking for the same "shifting" or "freeplay" like the tie rod end check. Use moderate pressure straight down on the prybar because flexing can occur and also the sway link is meant to be able to move around during turning or over bumps. This procedure can be used on the rear of the vehicle to diagnose rear sway bar links also.

Now the wheel bearing is checked using the same procedure as the tie rod end push/pull technique, this is why your tie rod ends/tie rods must be in good shape before deciding to inspect a wheel bearing. There will be a zero effort movement during the push/pull check. I can't say 100% of the time that the wheel bearing will make noise but when they do, it reminds me of bowling, specifically if your ball rolls slowly down the lane(definitely not a once and done type noise (they usually become louder the faster your vehicle speed).

Last but not least, the strut mount platem you can try to lubricate it with an aerosol grease, but there really is no way to check it unless you remove the entire strut assembly, if you do remove it you might as well clean and grease it or replace it. Oh you can look under the hood at the top of the strut tower directly in the middle is the nut that holds everything together directly below that is the top of the strut plate of bushing, inspect it as it is made of rubber if heavily cracked or separated replace it.

Hope this helps other wise I just wasted a few hours typing. CHEERS!!

mskansan

Oh forgot to mention this normally takes about 10 minutes to check everything out, but

obviously much longer to repair broken or worn out parts.

thetechguyz

Clunk sound... Just wanted to make a post thought it might help some people out...

Lower Control Arm Bushing:
Notorious for degrading over time and cause noise when the suspension is doing it's job. Very easy to check... Jack up the car on either side and look at the bushing is it dry rot? Can you see the inner piece of the bushing? It should ideally be a solid piece. When I changed my LCA I pulled the old one out with the bad bushing and the bushing just fell apart and the center of the bushing where it bolts fell to the ground.

It has been the problem in both of my Honda Civics which are about ten years old...

A strut can also make the same 'clunk' noise if it's blown.


Problem Fixed. Excessively.

Dorman LCA, Moog Ball Joint, Moog Tie Rod Ends, Eibach Sway Kit, KYB Gas Struts, Moog Strut Mount.

Vehicle 145,000 Miles... During this process the old strut mount bearings fell apart when removing. The strut was oily and unresponsive. Lower Control Arm bushing fell apart with a inspection after removing. If you have high miles suspension components probably need to be checked out pretty thoroughly.

TenToothCog

Definitely a bushing problem... Follow the diagnosis above and you'll be solid.

coco718

thanks for the reply i went ahead and brought the car to a shop and they told me it was the upper strut mount that was bad but somehow i think there wrong.

me, CIVIC05EX

I will try this one ! looks like i should read all before even think to start. may be a project for the weekend.
Thanks a lot !!