draggbody

so i was talking to a friend of mine about this and he thinks that some thin shims under the relief valve spring will give more "tuning" ability... add a thin one and keep uping it until the desired results are achived...

fast2camciv

Nothing abandoned here....just hibernation lol. As the years go by, it seems I spend less and less time in the garage during the winter haha! Honestly i've just been trying to save money for a few major purchases that need to happen for this thing. (new wheels/tires mainly, sway bar, all the bushings need replaced, etc etc) During the winters I usually just stack money, or stack parts lolol.

As for the TCD, I've had all those same idea's already, just dont know enough about how exactly the hydraulic system works. Adding some washers under the relief valve would work for sure...but which one, or one's, need to be shimmed? If you look in the photobucket link I posted before, you will see that I posted all of the same information from the Honda Service Manual, and I've also got numerous pics of the TCD all torn apart...If you notice, there is like 6 different springs in this thing that control the hydraulic flow, so that's kinda where I'm stuck when it comes to exactly what to modify.

I've been also talking a little bit with Purplecivicturbo, on here about coming up with a electronically controllable pump system and it sounds like he's on to something with using a differential pump from a skyline (obviously not available here, but its a step in the right direction lol) Coming up with a system that uses an external pump to apply pressure to the clutches, and being able to be controlled electronically, most likely by the ECU's tuning system...could be pretty ground breaking.....actuation of the clutches controlled by the ABS's wheel speed sensors???? entirely possible

draggbody

this is the one that controls the amount of pressure that is supplied to the clutches... the others just control the engagement/disengagement of the clutches... think stage 5 pressure plate on a stock clutch disk... there is no way to increase the friction material, but we can increase the pressure applied to it...

OneBadTurboCRV

Thanks to you both - I wasn't aware you had all that posted, I guess I need to read better. Before that guy figures out an electronic controlled setup we better start buying everything we can for spare parts. If that system gets out, I am afraid we might have an epidemic of the CR-V disease.

Also, I know exactly what you are talking about during winter. The wife is usually storming about how many parts get delivered during the winter months. Speaking of which I "lifted" my CRV a few weeks ago.

fast2camciv

Nice! You gotta post pics, or at least PM some to me, I know your not big on posting them online, but i'm uber-curious lol. I really wanted to lift mine for the winter, but the cost of wheels/tires was more than I wanted to spend on a winter setup. I'm rocking prelude wheels with 225/55/16 studless snow tires instead lol. I figured I should probably save my cash for the summer tire setup instead. (hope to stuff a 17x9 under it with some 255's)

Sooooo....draggbody's post got me thinking...maybe i've been over thinking this setup the entire time, and maybe he's right in the fact that the one relief valve is the one spot that controls the pressure....so I took my spare TCD unit apart again last night, and shimmed the spring in the pictures above.

the overall compressed height of the spring/ball was 27mm (6mm ball, so 21mm is compressed spring) so I looked around the garage and found a bunch of 7/16" washers, and stacked them up to be .165" thick (random number I know lol...it was 3 washers thick) so I guess when I get a spare few hours, I'll swap the original TCD unit back in with the shims or pull the current TCD out and shim it in a similiar fashion. either way, a shimmed TCD will go in, and i'll give it a shot to see what happens.

once I get it in, and see that it does work..i'll do a write up with pics on how to do it with my other TCD unit.

OneBadTurboCRV

I am intrigued and very interested in seeing the results.

When I said "lifted" it was referring to a massive front end weight reduction. All this "competition" has made me want to expand my horizon. When I get it all done in a few months I will be sure to share pictures, or maybe a few here or there as I go. Right now all my time and money is being poured into a higher compression (12:1) N/A GSR build for the Y49 CRX...

draggbody

with your spare diff, is it possible to plumb in an air inlet on the front oil pump orifice??? this away you could use an air regulator w/ gauge to see how much pressure the stock spring creates, then you would know how effective each washers is... does this make sense???

fast2camciv

Ah, i see what you did there! lol. did you pull the motor or trans, or all of it? and what are you doing?!

y49 crx eh? soooo....that begs the question...do you believe in the curse?!?!!

That does make sense for sure...there is some plugs that can be knocked out, although im not sure if what kind of access It will allow. And even then, getting a fitting or or sealing it up some how to run air through it might be an issue. Not sure, i'll have to look it over this weekend and see if something reaches out and grabs me lol. I might not go through all of that just yet, i'd rather just throw it in as is, and see if it actually works before figuring out how to dial it all in. I picked up the spare just for doing stuff like this lol

OneBadTurboCRV

All of it and everything. I decided its time to go all out with this thing. Since we essentially have the same setups I decided its time for me to go 2.0L as well. No, I don't believe in the curse - knocks on wood - haha.

As far as your ports are concerned: If you found out the size prior you could measure some SAE/Metric taps to see if it is close enough to go that route. That way you can always plug it when you are done. Otherwise I personally wouldn't touch it. Then again, I agree with you too - you already took the time to shim it, just see what it does.

esdafoo

I have a 97 cr-v and removed the real-time system and was searching over google to find a solution for transmisson LSD and find your thread, nice build bro!

Mine have ksport coilovers, wiretuck, hydraulic handbrake, Integra seats, extended wheel studs, s2000 wheels, obd1 convertion and more. You can see my build here (in french sorry)

http://forum.clubcivicquebec.com/top...d-cr-v-b20-sc/

qwrty

i wanna suggest any B series lsd kit(obx,quife..etc) but im not familiar w/ the internals of the crv's
tranny, maybe it could work!??! since most of our Vs parts were similar to integras and civics....

g/l!

esdafoo

1st gen CR-V trannys got cable shifter, not rod shifter like other B-series trannys. I already looked this route. :/

OneBadTurboCRV

The problem that I can see so far is the differential bearings (inner and outer) are different between the CRV and others. There may be a few mods needed other than that - but this is the biggest work around I can see off-hand.

draggbody

tease much??? im just sayin keep your eyes on the transmission section in the next week... this is, as far as i know, the first lsd in a rt4wd crv tranny...

fast2camciv

^^ w00t w00t! I probably wont be needing one of those for the CRV build, but It would be a very welcome addition to the civic that i'm converting to rt4wd

Didn't have a chance to work on the CRV this weekend...spent some time up at the local ski hill doing some snowboarding, and lots of drinking this weekend lol. Gotta try and get this thing to pass emissions today/tomorrow...completely forgot that it was due this month lol. Good thing is I wont have to deal with it for another 2 years if it passes! Gotta plug the stock ECU back in, and put a few gallons of e85 in it to lean it out...should pass no problems...I hope lol.

fast2camciv

Well, did some actual work on the car last night lol...Also got it to pass emissions yesterday too So dont have to worry about that for another 2 years

Pulled the TCD out last night and put .165" worth of washers under the pressure relief valve spring...Everything went really smooth and I'm really pleased with teh results so far. I havent gotten to really put it to the test, but last night while doing some figure 8's and some circles, I could tell the rear end was getting much more power sent to it

For once the front OUTSIDE wheel was the one doing all the screeching during cornering, instead of the usual inside front. I attributed this to the rear end pushing its way around! It was really late, and I was doing circles at my son's elementry school so I didnt really get to wild in my testing lol. This morning on the way to work, I punched it leaving a stop sign, and usually it just roaches the inside front tire for 30-40 feet......this time, i was surprised when it just hooked and shot me out into the middle of the intersection!! I have a feeling this is exactly what the Dr. ordered

Pics that I uploaded to instagram last night...

(old toasted ECU's make great wheel chocks haha)

draggbody

so you are running shims under the relief spring and the clutch pack????

fast2camciv

Yesir!

After looking over the shims in the clutch pack last night...I really think I need to move up to thicker shims...or maybe just ditch teh shims all together. I was looking over the assembly last night, and I think there might be a better place to shim the clutch plates closer together. looking at the shims, there is no wear on them, and no more noticable wear on any of the clutch plates....tells me they might not be doing what I had anticipated.

Shimming the relief valve made a MUCH more noticable difference in the systems performance...and I really havent even been hard on it yet. After work today i'm going to go play around in an empty parking lot somewhere...gonna try and find some gravel to mess around in too lol

draggbody

so shim the clutches or not??? what are your thoughts one way or the other...

fast2camciv

well, like I said, I dont think the shims on the clutches are doing much...if anything. I think initially they did give me that feeling that they were initiating faster...but I'm not so sure about that anymore. May have just been wishfull thinking lol. I need to come up with a solid "testing procedure" so I can be exactly sure of the results with each modification. (that means finding a dirt lot somewhere and having someone film me doing burnouts and flat spins hahaha!)

After a couple days of driving (and some help from rain today) I've punished teh system pretty good. So far as I can tell, it helped for sure.....although not as much as I initially thought, and its not putting enough power to the rear for what i'm after.

And I still need to figure out a for sure way of getting it to activate quicker. I think the only real answer to that is to enlarge the hole on the front pump.

A couple 8,000rpm launches on wet cement resulted in the front wheels still spinning....but when the rear wheels came online, there was a noticable difference in traction. before it would just sit and spin like a normal fwd car...before the rear end grooaaaaaned angrily, and bogged down the motor. now there is no fuss, and much less wheelspin from teh front wheels. (it almost felt like the back might have been spinning too...but the rear end didnt step over like a normal awd car does...hence the reason I want to get it on video so I can see what's going on instead of relying on feel)

Also, I've noticed something odd....now when I am going in reverse...It goes for about 10-15feet, then the rear end noticeably comes online and it feels like something is binding up, or it feels as if I'm pushing a car all of a sudden lol.

fast2camciv

Anyone know anything about fluid viscosity and possibly using a different fluid in these things? I would like to try some different fluids and see how the clutch's react to it....looking at the wear on the plates's there just doesnt seem to be much friction.

OneBadTurboCRV

In my opinion: Messing with the viscosity would be a bad idea. Hydraulics are simple yet complicated. Here is a couple reads for you... (you can skip ahead )

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...pment-mistakes
http://www.worldsweeper.com/Preventi...hydraulic.html

You are on the right path... I wish I could help more, but I need to get my lazy butt in gear and pull one apart. I can tell you one thing with my "old" setup (haha ) in first gear I would break the rear tires loose and sometimes in second. I also desired the quicker engagement of the rear...

On a side note: I am very curious what "draggbody" is up to though. I checked out putting an LSD in the CRV Trans before. Maybe I should look into this a little harder... I never considered any stock LSD units either. Hmmm...

draggbody

not an oem lsd... mfactory... soon, very soon...

OneBadTurboCRV

Haha, inside deal or outside machine work? I was on the phone with a representative for hours a while back... I am really interested to find out. Not necessarily because I want one so to speak, but because MFactory pissed me off. If I wasn't so lazy I would try and beat you to it. The only thing stopping me is pulling the differential out of the CRV Trans as I have a new MFactory box sitting there for another project of mine.

draggbody

whats it fit???