06sik20z3

i have a b20v and would like to know where your return line is ending up back on your block. thanks.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

Are you meaning for the drain back? There are two big plugs. One on each side of your oil filter. Remove and replace with fittings of your choice. I use the prelude fittings like in the 2nd pic since I don't have AN fittings and braided lines but there are tons of places that sell - 10 plugs.

Crazy4Honda

Ok so to the people that are saying that you do not need one or that it will never fill up i will tell you first hand that they are needed and they will fill up. I have been road racing for many years now and have had many different catch can setups and from what i have found the bigger the can and the higher it is the better. The can will still fill up and if driven hard enough will start to spit oil out the filters. My Box currently is identical to the one on the first page. I do have many layers of baffling but the oil still manages to get up and out. I am running a fully built Turbo GSR and that size of can is the only thing to keep it under control. There are many people running very interesting can setups but its completely up to you and your setup. The same catch can will not work on every vehicle. As far as apwhat posted yes it is so stupid how much SS lines and AN fittings are but i want a 100% guarantied seal and i dont want my Ram horn manifold melting them.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Yup yup.

This week i should have my valve cover welded with 4 10an fittings and baffles done. I am a little confused on how to do the baffles. I have a bunch of ideas butt witch one would work the best. Any ideas are welcome guys. Will post up pictures of the valve cover and hopefully get all the fittings and hoses and get the box into my car to test it out on a mild N/A setup.

IDEAS FOR HOW TO BAFFLE A VALVE COVER NEEDED ASAP. Thanks

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

If your can is filling up you have some serious blow by going on. It's just meant to relieve pressure and that's all. Yes some oil will get threw but it shouldn't be very much at all. I empty my can like once every 6 months and not much comes out. Like 2 ounces maybe. I just have 2 block fittings and no drain back as of now. On B series vtec it's best to weld fittings on the back of the valve cover since there's no baffling in the way. Welding a small piece of aluminum strip over the hole on the inside will stop most of the oil also from getting by. A drain back will eliminate having to drain your can.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

SO did i do a dumb thing by removing the baffle plate that is on the valve cover? Is there still a way i can weld it back on somehow?

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

So you drilled out all the spot welds and removed the entire baffle plate on the inside of the valve cover? It was originally welded so yeah you can have it re welded.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Yup. I might not even run it. Make baffle plates that function goodand whats gonna be the point of that plate anyways. I am also going to gave the hole in the back for that nipple thing welded shut and already ground of the letters on the cover to say OH Vtec. Will post up pics once its all done.

LightningTeg

LS setup. Works well

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Simple yet effective. Id love to see how you baffled it in the back. Got my fittings welded on at work today. Going to get the baffles done tomorrow at work. I am thinking of just making a little tepee over it.

LightningTeg

No baffles. Will collect alot of oil if I run high boost alot. log manifold causes alot of backpressure at high boost pressures that contributes.

adickted2boost

beautiful work man

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

My fitting showed up today. It's a beautiful piece of machining. I have to lines from the block ports to a catch can and 1 line from the bottom of the can to this.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Got my valve cover done today. Bought all the fittings that i need. About 200$ worth of fittings with a discount and i still need 15feet of braided 10an line =~150$...gggrrrr. Will post up pics of valve cover and catch can later on.

HellaFab

15 feet sounds like ALOT, how many ports are you running on the VC and block?

each run will be ~2.5' so 15 feet is 6 runs!

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

4 ports. 2 in the front and 2 in the back of the valve cover. about 2feet each runner in the back and the fronts are about 4 feet each. and the other 3 are for mistakes if they happen if not then for the drain back valve. And no its not draining back to the block. I made a extra port to drain the can with out taking it out.

v8killaz

more pics. i want to built one myself in class.

good thread. the other catch can breather threads are useless


you guys just use small holes drilled as baffles and no mesh or anything right

v8killaz

would this be a good catch can or no

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Pics coming soon from me. I sent them from my cousins iphone last night to my email and they never got there.

Hmn. 2nd grade quick sketch. Just run one baffle. Its all in how you make the baffles in the valve cover.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

Most people don't even bother making baffles in the valve cover. The factory one along with a baffled catch can is more then adequate.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Yeah butt why have oil go into the catch can while you can spend 1 hour making and welding the baffles in there. I made my own baffles and ran the oem baffle plate. Pics coming soon.

v8killaz

didnt know poeple make baffles in the vc. i thought yo just run the ports on top of the oem ones

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

^^^ Yes that's the easiest and what most do.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

I will have pics for you in a few minutes.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)