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Old 09-07-2011, 09:08 PM   #1
75aces
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Default axle nut size

I tried to find a write up on changing my axles on my 96 accord sedan. No luck. Can someone help me with the socket size and what additional tools? This is going to be my first attempt and hopefully will be a smooth job. Also want to know if it is a straight forward swap or something additional needed for the engine side of the axle. Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:57 AM   #2
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Default Re: axle nut size

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Originally Posted by 75aces View Post
Can someone help me with the socket size and what additional tools? This is going to be my first attempt and hopefully will be a smooth job. Also want to know if it is a straight forward swap or something additional needed for the engine side of the axle. Thanks.
36mm and a breaker bar. If it was installed correctly, meaning not by and over zealous cudgel with an affinity to maxing out the 3/4" drive impact gun, a 1/2" breaker bar should do. You might need a cheater bar to gain some more leverage.
A large flat head screw driver, flat bar, or crow bar for the inner joint.
A small cold chisel for unstaking/staking the axle nuts.
Large hammer or single jack(mini sledge)
Jack stands and floor jack.
10, 12, 14, 17 mm wrenches are going to be your friends.

Remove hubcaps
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up and place on jackstands
Pop the inboard joints of the axles, avoid damaging the seal.
Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove cotter pins from tie rod and lower BJ
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut. It should pop free, you may need to strike the lower control arm with a hammer with a stubborn stud.
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.

Installation is the reverse. For added protection of the inner boot as you slide it through the fork, use a plastic grocery bag. It will help slide the axle through the fork.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:34 PM   #3
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Default Re: axle nut size

Uhh might want to loosen the axle nut before jacking the car up.. holla
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:08 PM   #4
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Default Re: axle nut size

PB blaster will be your friend in removing the axle nuts.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:31 PM   #5
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Default Re: axle nut size

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Uhh might want to loosen the axle nut before jacking the car up.. holla
Uhh you might want to re-read the post before bumping an 18 month old post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE on 09-08-2011 01:57 AM
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nuts
So no, I will not holla.

Your post-fu is weak, and so is your comprehension.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #6
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Default Re: axle nut size

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Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE View Post
Uhh you might want to re-read the post before bumping an 18 month old post.


So no, I will not holla.

Your post-fu is weak, and so is your comprehension.
Your ghettospeak-fu is vulnerable to master rookie members.
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Go eat some hot peppers and broccoli would ya!
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plot twist: epic douchebag ricer is OP
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:23 AM   #7
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Default Re: axle nut size

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Originally Posted by NZXTInerTia View Post
PB blaster will be your friend in removing the axle nuts.
Protip: PB blaster is junk. Kroil is THE best rust penetrant on the market beaten only by a 50/50 mixture of power steering fluid and acetone. There was a study on this showing that PB is only marginally better than WD-40
I tried PB on my rear rotor screws when I was replacing the bearings because they were fused to the rotor and bearing with rust. I never got the screws out and just opted for new rotors since the old ones were a little pitted anyway.
I found this while googling around on the jeep forum-
Article in the April/May 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop.

They corroded of nuts/bolts so there were enough samples to try out the various penetrating oils on.

The nuts/bolts were tested by soaking them in the penetrating oils for 8 hours.
The load needed to break the nuts free was tested using a Baldwin compressometer.

The results (lower is better):

> 50/50 mix of PSF & acetone - 53 Lbs
> Kroil - 106 Lbs
> Liquid Wrench - 127 Lbs
> PB Blaster - 214 Lbs
> WD-40 - 238 Lbs
> None - 516 Lbs
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:46 AM   #8
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Default Re: axle nut size

Quote:
Originally Posted by komodomoe View Post
Protip: PB blaster is junk. Kroil is THE best rust penetrant on the market beaten only by a 50/50 mixture of power steering fluid and acetone. There was a study on this showing that PB is only marginally better than WD-40
I tried PB on my rear rotor screws when I was replacing the bearings because they were fused to the rotor and bearing with rust. I never got the screws out and just opted for new rotors since the old ones were a little pitted anyway.
I found this while googling around on the jeep forum-
Article in the April/May 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop.

They corroded of nuts/bolts so there were enough samples to try out the various penetrating oils on.

The nuts/bolts were tested by soaking them in the penetrating oils for 8 hours.
The load needed to break the nuts free was tested using a Baldwin compressometer.

The results (lower is better):

> 50/50 mix of PSF & acetone - 53 Lbs
> Kroil - 106 Lbs
> Liquid Wrench - 127 Lbs
> PB Blaster - 214 Lbs
> WD-40 - 238 Lbs
> None - 516 Lbs
Huh, interesting. I'll have to look into that, I've had decent results with PB before so maybe this Kroil stuff is better.
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Go eat some hot peppers and broccoli would ya!
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plot twist: epic douchebag ricer is OP
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:42 PM   #9
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Default Re: axle nut size

Liquid Wrench is just shy of Kroils specs and it's half the price.

You really want to make sure that you are wearing gloves and a respirator if you use the 50/50 AFT/Acetone mix or Kroil. They really aren't all that good for the nervous and respiratory systems. Our maintenance crew at the local refinery stopped using Kroil due to it's chemical makeup and hazards. We use LPS KB-88 now and it works great.... Again with this you need to use it sparingly and use appropriate personal protective equipment.

I always make sure I have plenty of LPS KB-88 on hand at all times. If it can work on rusted nuts and studs that have been heat cycled up to 800 degrees in a high pressure steam line flange. It's good enough for automotive use...lol
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:28 PM   #10
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Default Re: axle nut size

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If it can work on rusted nuts and studs that have been heat cycled up to 800 degrees in a high pressure steam line flange. It's good enough for automotive use...lol
What in the heck do you do for a living?
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94 Accord EX/1993 3000GT Base S/T
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Originally Posted by GhostAccord View Post
Go eat some hot peppers and broccoli would ya!
Quote:
Originally Posted by doood View Post
plot twist: epic douchebag ricer is OP
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:12 PM   #11
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Default Re: axle nut size

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Originally Posted by NZXTInerTia View Post
What in the heck do you do for a living?
I'm a Pipefitter/Steamfitter, I work around a large assortment of badly rusted bolt-ups.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:17 AM   #12
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Default

Kroil is the bomb. I have used it once before. Never have i been so satisfied with anything before. But that **** is NOT cheap by any means.


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Old 05-09-2013, 04:33 PM   #13
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Default Re: axle nut size

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I'm a Pipefitter/Steamfitter, I work around a large assortment of badly rusted bolt-ups.
And if you follow some posts...can weld like no other. But you REALLY need to see the baking skills
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