Is it my oil pump?
04-25-2021, 08:23 AM
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Is it my oil pump?
So I have a 1997 2.2 Honda Accord with 65,000 miles. I was driving yesterday and the car just sputtered and shut down as if it was out of gas. My oil was low. The following morning I changed my oil and the car turns over but will not start. I also noticed an oil drip from behind I the crank pulley (crank seal). Before shutting down the was zero knocking, noises, or grinding coming from the engine. Would this be the oil pump?
04-25-2021, 02:47 PM
#2
Re: Is it my oil pump?
Possibly, But lets take apart what you wrote:
Oil drip behind Crank Pulley - I think what you are going to need is possibly a front main seal, or any of the little items that come when you the timing belt change. If they are leaking and you have to get in there, my suggestion is to buy the timing belt kit with water pump and change everything while in there, as it will all be apart anyway. I believe that most people go with the Aisin and been happy (myself included). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167487&jsn=970
You still might need a a few more seals, but this is at least part of it. Look at this thread where someone did the work and it should show you parts and the effort:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...cover-3221242/
Low oil and damage: depending on the low oil condition (how low was it) you could have starved it and done some damage. This could be pistons, rods, crank, etc, almost anything could be damaged if it's low oil.
If I am reading this right, it's still unlikely to be an oil pump, an oil pump and fail and you wouldn't know until it locked up. Sputtering and dying kinda sound like you might have had the timing belt snap. When was it last changed? I suspect this also because it has such low miles, an inspector might have said it hadn't hit the mileage, but people forget that time is also a bitch and can wear the belt out just being on there. I would think you would change a belt after 10 years or so to be safe, 12-15 if you really want to risk it, and 20 or more if you just don't care.
Personally, I would not attempt to start the car or make it crank over until you have the timing cover off and can see if the belt is shredded, or anything obvious has fallen off (which I suspect will be the case given your description).
In a completely different direction, you could have had a simple fuel pump failure and that's why it's cranking and not starting. But I would check the timing belt first unless you tell us you had it recently changed.
Oil drip behind Crank Pulley - I think what you are going to need is possibly a front main seal, or any of the little items that come when you the timing belt change. If they are leaking and you have to get in there, my suggestion is to buy the timing belt kit with water pump and change everything while in there, as it will all be apart anyway. I believe that most people go with the Aisin and been happy (myself included). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167487&jsn=970
You still might need a a few more seals, but this is at least part of it. Look at this thread where someone did the work and it should show you parts and the effort:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...cover-3221242/
Low oil and damage: depending on the low oil condition (how low was it) you could have starved it and done some damage. This could be pistons, rods, crank, etc, almost anything could be damaged if it's low oil.
If I am reading this right, it's still unlikely to be an oil pump, an oil pump and fail and you wouldn't know until it locked up. Sputtering and dying kinda sound like you might have had the timing belt snap. When was it last changed? I suspect this also because it has such low miles, an inspector might have said it hadn't hit the mileage, but people forget that time is also a bitch and can wear the belt out just being on there. I would think you would change a belt after 10 years or so to be safe, 12-15 if you really want to risk it, and 20 or more if you just don't care.
Personally, I would not attempt to start the car or make it crank over until you have the timing cover off and can see if the belt is shredded, or anything obvious has fallen off (which I suspect will be the case given your description).
In a completely different direction, you could have had a simple fuel pump failure and that's why it's cranking and not starting. But I would check the timing belt first unless you tell us you had it recently changed.
04-25-2021, 03:22 PM
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Re: Is it my oil pump?
Possibly, But lets take apart what you wrote:
Oil drip behind Crank Pulley - I think what you are going to need is possibly a front main seal, or any of the little items that come when you the timing belt change. If they are leaking and you have to get in there, my suggestion is to buy the timing belt kit with water pump and change everything while in there, as it will all be apart anyway. I believe that most people go with the Aisin and been happy (myself included). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167487&jsn=970
You still might need a a few more seals, but this is at least part of it. Look at this thread where someone did the work and it should show you parts and the effort:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...cover-3221242/
Low oil and damage: depending on the low oil condition (how low was it) you could have starved it and done some damage. This could be pistons, rods, crank, etc, almost anything could be damaged if it's low oil.
If I am reading this right, it's still unlikely to be an oil pump, an oil pump and fail and you wouldn't know until it locked up. Sputtering and dying kinda sound like you might have had the timing belt snap. When was it last changed? I suspect this also because it has such low miles, an inspector might have said it hadn't hit the mileage, but people forget that time is also a bitch and can wear the belt out just being on there. I would think you would change a belt after 10 years or so to be safe, 12-15 if you really want to risk it, and 20 or more if you just don't care.
Personally, I would not attempt to start the car or make it crank over until you have the timing cover off and can see if the belt is shredded, or anything obvious has fallen off (which I suspect will be the case given your description).
In a completely different direction, you could have had a simple fuel pump failure and that's why it's cranking and not starting. But I would check the timing belt first unless you tell us you had it recently changed.
Oil drip behind Crank Pulley - I think what you are going to need is possibly a front main seal, or any of the little items that come when you the timing belt change. If they are leaking and you have to get in there, my suggestion is to buy the timing belt kit with water pump and change everything while in there, as it will all be apart anyway. I believe that most people go with the Aisin and been happy (myself included). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167487&jsn=970
You still might need a a few more seals, but this is at least part of it. Look at this thread where someone did the work and it should show you parts and the effort:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...cover-3221242/
Low oil and damage: depending on the low oil condition (how low was it) you could have starved it and done some damage. This could be pistons, rods, crank, etc, almost anything could be damaged if it's low oil.
If I am reading this right, it's still unlikely to be an oil pump, an oil pump and fail and you wouldn't know until it locked up. Sputtering and dying kinda sound like you might have had the timing belt snap. When was it last changed? I suspect this also because it has such low miles, an inspector might have said it hadn't hit the mileage, but people forget that time is also a bitch and can wear the belt out just being on there. I would think you would change a belt after 10 years or so to be safe, 12-15 if you really want to risk it, and 20 or more if you just don't care.
Personally, I would not attempt to start the car or make it crank over until you have the timing cover off and can see if the belt is shredded, or anything obvious has fallen off (which I suspect will be the case given your description).
In a completely different direction, you could have had a simple fuel pump failure and that's why it's cranking and not starting. But I would check the timing belt first unless you tell us you had it recently changed.
04-26-2021, 07:17 AM
#4
Re: Is it my oil pump?
Well, to test for fuel I would think you would want to test the pressure, which is going to take a little bit of effort, because I think you need two adapters to get it to connect.
No, you don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace, however you do need to cut a hole or make an access panel. I haven't done this on my car because it hasn't needed one, but I've done them on other cars.
This video will show roughly where it is so you can make the hole.
Although he doesn't mention it in the video, DO NOT USE A SAW that will cut deep, like a sawzall. Use a cutting wheel. As you can see in the video, parts of the pump are close and a regular blade saw will hit it. In the past, I used a 3 or 4 inch cutting wheel that I picked up from Harbor Freight very cheaply along with a small air compressor. But they make plenty of battery operated ones as well, almost anything will cut this very thin piece of sheet metal, so don't worry about getting some monster tool. I've seen a messy job where someone used an air hammer to chisel through, but it really looks bad. When you make the access plate/panel cut, only cut three sides so you can just roll it back and then roll it into place when done. Then either tape or make a latch to keep it closed and in place when done.
Make sure you are checking all voltage and such down to the pump before replacing it, in case it's something else.
Make sure to disconnect battery and anything else before starting to cut.
With all that, the leak is probably behind the timing belt, so it still sounds like that has to come apart and should be inspected before attempting to start or crank the car. If it's bad/loose, you are going to do a ton of damage to the engine so that's why you want to verify everything is good there before attacking the fuel pump.
No, you don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace, however you do need to cut a hole or make an access panel. I haven't done this on my car because it hasn't needed one, but I've done them on other cars.
This video will show roughly where it is so you can make the hole.
Although he doesn't mention it in the video, DO NOT USE A SAW that will cut deep, like a sawzall. Use a cutting wheel. As you can see in the video, parts of the pump are close and a regular blade saw will hit it. In the past, I used a 3 or 4 inch cutting wheel that I picked up from Harbor Freight very cheaply along with a small air compressor. But they make plenty of battery operated ones as well, almost anything will cut this very thin piece of sheet metal, so don't worry about getting some monster tool. I've seen a messy job where someone used an air hammer to chisel through, but it really looks bad. When you make the access plate/panel cut, only cut three sides so you can just roll it back and then roll it into place when done. Then either tape or make a latch to keep it closed and in place when done.
Make sure you are checking all voltage and such down to the pump before replacing it, in case it's something else.
Make sure to disconnect battery and anything else before starting to cut.
With all that, the leak is probably behind the timing belt, so it still sounds like that has to come apart and should be inspected before attempting to start or crank the car. If it's bad/loose, you are going to do a ton of damage to the engine so that's why you want to verify everything is good there before attacking the fuel pump.
04-26-2021, 11:18 AM
#5
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Re: Is it my oil pump?
Well, to test for fuel I would think you would want to test the pressure, which is going to take a little bit of effort, because I think you need two adapters to get it to connect.
No, you don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace, however you do need to cut a hole or make an access panel. I haven't done this on my car because it hasn't needed one, but I've done them on other cars.
This video will show roughly where it is so you can make the hole.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mq-...channel=BuggzP
Although he doesn't mention it in the video, DO NOT USE A SAW that will cut deep, like a sawzall. Use a cutting wheel. As you can see in the video, parts of the pump are close and a regular blade saw will hit it. In the past, I used a 3 or 4 inch cutting wheel that I picked up from Harbor Freight very cheaply along with a small air compressor. But they make plenty of battery operated ones as well, almost anything will cut this very thin piece of sheet metal, so don't worry about getting some monster tool. I've seen a messy job where someone used an air hammer to chisel through, but it really looks bad. When you make the access plate/panel cut, only cut three sides so you can just roll it back and then roll it into place when done. Then either tape or make a latch to keep it closed and in place when done.
Make sure you are checking all voltage and such down to the pump before replacing it, in case it's something else.
Make sure to disconnect battery and anything else before starting to cut.
With all that, the leak is probably behind the timing belt, so it still sounds like that has to come apart and should be inspected before attempting to start or crank the car. If it's bad/loose, you are going to do a ton of damage to the engine so that's why you want to verify everything is good there before attacking the fuel pump.
No, you don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace, however you do need to cut a hole or make an access panel. I haven't done this on my car because it hasn't needed one, but I've done them on other cars.
This video will show roughly where it is so you can make the hole.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mq-...channel=BuggzP
Although he doesn't mention it in the video, DO NOT USE A SAW that will cut deep, like a sawzall. Use a cutting wheel. As you can see in the video, parts of the pump are close and a regular blade saw will hit it. In the past, I used a 3 or 4 inch cutting wheel that I picked up from Harbor Freight very cheaply along with a small air compressor. But they make plenty of battery operated ones as well, almost anything will cut this very thin piece of sheet metal, so don't worry about getting some monster tool. I've seen a messy job where someone used an air hammer to chisel through, but it really looks bad. When you make the access plate/panel cut, only cut three sides so you can just roll it back and then roll it into place when done. Then either tape or make a latch to keep it closed and in place when done.
Make sure you are checking all voltage and such down to the pump before replacing it, in case it's something else.
Make sure to disconnect battery and anything else before starting to cut.
With all that, the leak is probably behind the timing belt, so it still sounds like that has to come apart and should be inspected before attempting to start or crank the car. If it's bad/loose, you are going to do a ton of damage to the engine so that's why you want to verify everything is good there before attacking the fuel pump.
04-26-2021, 03:04 PM
#6
Re: Is it my oil pump?
Ah...that totally sucks. I'm sorry to hear. And it extra sucks because you said the belt was done (unless someone lied about it).
About the only consolation I can offer is 1- do not waste your time doing anything else to that motor, it's junk.
2 - You can find a whole motor for hopefully around $500 and drop it in.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18453931321...kAAOSwGbFfsuS-
About the only consolation I can offer is 1- do not waste your time doing anything else to that motor, it's junk.
2 - You can find a whole motor for hopefully around $500 and drop it in.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18453931321...kAAOSwGbFfsuS-
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