SL0WEGG

To make a long story short. I raced my car in June. I was having this strange 4th gear issue where it felt like it hesitated/choked up immediately when I shifted into 4th. I end up breaking my differential. Park the car and now a month and a half later I get a new trans in. Go for a spin, hit it in first and I get what feels like misfire or lack of fuel? I thought it was my pump so I swapped it out for a working on and the issue is still there.

Setup:

H2b
pro 2 cams
rmf drag
twm 52mm itb

The only thing that changed from when it ran to now is the header. I don't think the header would cause this much ruckus. I'm trying to exhaust all options before taking it in and having a shop look at it. The only thing I haven't looked at was the ignition coil.

Here are a couple video's of said issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4N6CrlMF4M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7Wy-fCMgR0

and a little shot of a log


Any idea's would be appreciated. I tried to test my coil via an ohm test but I think my voltmeter is jacked up

DDTECH

Wanna share the cal, i'll be happy to look at it..

It's sounding like a misfire issue from how you're describing it. Either not enough fuel or too little or too much timing.

SL0WEGG

wideband took a **** and beside the fact that the new header doesn't have an o2 bung doesn't help the cause.

DDTECH

Just upload the cal, lemme see if i can find anything that pops out.

Just a word of advice, on a few motors i've done in the last few weeks they have been minor changes , such as bolt ons, or something like a different intake and with the weather being so damn hot, its thrown the Ratios off a good bit..

Its quite possible that this header change really urked up something.. I know i ran into that problem with my bisi header and i ended up having to change the timing all around to fix it.

DDTECH

lol it sounds terrible lol..

Dumb question, dont get offended.. Did you double check all your timing.. making sure it didn't jump a tooth, or you dizzy didn't back any bolts out?

SL0WEGG

attached it. You'll have to change it back to .skl to view it. Unsure how else i'd upload this bish.

SL0WEGG

Last I checked timing it was fine. Dizzy was never removed.

DDTECH

give me a few.

Shifting into 4th, where are you at in rpms.. around 6400-7300rpms i'm assuming?

Did you do the tuning?

SL0WEGG

I want to say it was about 6600ish. I did not do the tuning.

DDTECH

is the dyno pick up not working on that pull, or is that what you are feeling, because from the maps, it looks like a ign problem, they are pretty jagged..
Fuel maps look really good, but the timing maps look weird.. at least to me. Your high cam timing looks like it could use another 2-3 degrees in it..

Try adding some more timing between 6-7 and see if that helps.. if it doesn't, try taking away 2-3 from your ign settings that you have now.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

sweet jesus with those ignition maps dude

PyroProblem

Does it do it at partial throttle in vtec also???

Hows your plugs looking?

Id pull the valvecover and just check the valve lash and do a quick visual.

Ive think I've heard that sound before. I hope I'm wrong, but in my case, the valves were just kissing the pistons. (I was young and playing with my oh so fly cam gears yo!). Caused sort of a mechanical rev limiter if you will.

I know some might think, no f'ing way, but it happened. I consider myself extremely luck it didn't blow...I paniced the first time it happened. Then dumb me, revved it again and heard the exact same sound when I was supposed to hit vtec...

Back at the shop (while we were butt dynoing cam adjustments, we moved the gear back ( I think exhaust) and the sound went away...Car still ran pretty good, so apparently the valves weren't THAT bent...
But that sound..Only in vtec...

Assuming you know your clearances, you should be able to advance the exhaust cam a degree or 2 and or retard the intake the same amount so you dont risk v2v contact...

PyroProblem

From what I've seen, Ignition coils usually are either bad or they're not...You either have spark, or none at all...

In that video, I think I almost hear one of those blow-off valve thingies...
I retract my first statement, I hear the misfire now...
Its always the simple things...Hows your plugs???

SL0WEGG

It didn't happen on the dyno. Showed up on the track in 4th. Dyno was in third. The car didn't like timing on the dyno. Was initially 1-6 degrees higher in the last two tables. Tuner pulled timing and car made power.
Doesn't do it partial throttle vtec.

Plugs look fine, put in a new set.

The cams are at -1 I and +4 E if I remember correctly. I'll pull the cover off tomorrow and check the lash. The problem I see here is it was fine before I put the car away when my diff broke. But I still was able to drive the car and it went just fine. It just seems weird. And still the only thing I changed was the header. Possible it could just need to be re-tuned. But i'll check timing tomorrow again just to be sure.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i dont think this has anything to do with coils or anything, those ignition maps look terrible on hondata, you want smooth transitions across the ignition tables, not jagged edges of up and down timing. my ignition map for my car looks like this...



yours looks like this

SL0WEGG

Don't know why its like that. I didn't ask. It was a tune that was done before a drag event. Its an ITB car if that makes any difference. I was looking at an ITB map that comes with the hondata and it looks similar. Granted its just a basemap. But as stated before, the car ran just fine before.

PyroProblem

I cant see how a header swap could affect the a/f ratios THAT bad to cause it to run like that...
A wideband would help, but if its misfiring (sure sounds like it is in vtec only) it would probably just show lean...

By not doing it at part throttle vtec, I am beginning to think its tune related also...

Off topic, but does gas lose octane over just a couple months??

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

if you can get a factory ignition map and copy it over to your current ignition maps i would try that first, i see no reason why ITB's would use a jagged looking ignition map like that. ITB's are merely a form of intake setup, the ignition timing should still be smooth regardless. I see alot of nosing over in these maps where you go from high timing to low timing to high timing again and vice versa.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

also, and air fuel ratio gauge is an essential part of self tuning, you need it, plain and simple.

SL0WEGG

lol Wideband broken, new header doesn't have bung for one. If you watch the first video. I'm able to get into vtec in third. Second video the 3rd and 4th cut I was able to hit vtec. If you watch the third one specifically. I was able to get in it partial and when I went WOT it fell on its face as you can see from my body language.

Heres a screen clip of a log from the second video. Last run.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

im lookin at the calibrations that hondata is coming preloaded with and there is a setup for ITB's for an LS on here, and the ignition timing maps look like this on the high cam

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Trying to troubleshoot such an issue without a wideband is completely pointless.
It is very difficult to try and diagnose such an issue via a video.
I doubt it's an ignition issue, but anything is possible.

You need a wideband before you do anything else...

I have seen ignition coils work perfectly at partial throttle but cause ignition break up during heavy load conditions. (Many times, usually only on 280+ whp applications in my experience).

SL0WEGG

I'll try that tomorrow as well.
I realize this, but like I said. Wideband took a **** and new header doesn't have a bung.
I mean its similar but not exact. I understand the map could use some tuning. This tune was done in an hour, my car didn't run before this. I just got on and off so I could head out to an event. You should check the option to show boost tables so you can see the table from 0-100% throttle.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

your low cam smooths out great, but your high cam needs some work, also, you can try increasing your swell at 14v to 1.6 for a little extra charge on the ignition coil, i bumped my dwell to 2 at 13.86v on mine per the recommendation of RSTECH and i got much better results.

SL0WEGG

I'll try it out tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions Also noticed my voltage drops in vtec from 14.44 to 14.06 per logs