CivicVtec23

MuffinMan, Yea the CEL comes on normal at start, and goes off like it should. No CEL appears when the engine comes to a halt on power at around 4500-5000 rpms...My engine is a F22b2 so I would think it would rev up to 7000rpms or so maybe 7200.

The bulb in the cluster is functioning properly, I'm starting to think its related to the fuel injectors or one of them....and also possibly the EGR needs to be cleaned...gonna use a stethascope*sp to see if I can hear the injectors click, might also change the fuel filter while I'm at it!

If one of the injectors was not flowing correctly then I would imagine that would be the reason it isn't throwing a code...I feel like its primarily fuel related since the ecu would be sending the proper signal and fuel change but the injector wouldn't be able to make the change if it isn't functioning properly or flowing poorly.

Any thoughts?

MySelfAffliction

Yea my CEL comes on at start up just like normal then goes out just as it should. I haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet....honestly not working on the car too hard since it runs just fine other than the early redline. I'll probably look at it in a week or two once I get back in town.

RustyKungFu

Did you ever figure out the issue that was causing your RPMs limited to 5,000?

Maugutus

Hi everyone at honda-tech! I've researched this extensively and have spent hours reading through every honda + accord forum possible. The problem is very simple just like everyone in this thread: my 1994 Honda Accord EX F22B1 redlines in between 5000 and 5300, seems to bounce at 5250. Car has no CEL, all codes were fixed.

I have fixed the following on the car.

Removed stock intake, replaced with custom, all connections and vacuums stock.
Replaced distributor due to faulty crank sensor.
Replaced Vehicle Speed Sensor.
Replaced starter.
Replaced the Air Temperature Sensor on the plenum.
Replaced fuel gauge assembly.
Replaced tires with P195 50 R15, they should be P195 60 R15, miata.net says it is 6.3% too fast, so when my speedo says 60mph it is actually at 56mph.
Replaced speedometer.
Replaced VTEC gaskets, cleaned the oil pressure switch and the vtec filter.
Oil and filter has been changed multiple times, pressure is good.
Full tune up including: spark plugs, spark plug wires, pcv valve, distributor rotor, cap, fuel filter, air filter, gas tank was cleaned out.

The timing seems to be correct, and the pressure from the exhaust seems to be very powerful. VTEC does engage correctly. The only other problem the car seems to have is a somewhat erratic idle. The only sensors I haven't changed on this car are the MAP, TPS, and Idle speed. I have checked for any additional leaks and seem to have a oil pan gasket leak, very minor.

Thinking it may be the computer, has been inspected, nothing seems broken on it. All the internals seem good. Might be the cat.
If I missed anything let me know. I have a great deal of info on this car, and am a decent mechanic, but this is quite the conundrum.

Turbodude06

I know this is a old thread, but i just about bet money it's a cluster problem. Anyone having these problems and don't have any check engine codes, it's probably the cluster... I've solved this issue twice with a new cluster they are know to go bad on these year accords...

Maugutus

I apologize for reviving an old thread, or trying to, I cannot create my own for 15 days.

Good idea I will change the tachometer on the cluster, the speedo on the cluster was already broken, and subsequently replaced. I'm also going to clean the throttle body, idle air control valve and TPS, while being careful with the MAP. Will do one at a time and post results.

Turbodude06

I just seen your vtec isn't engaging right, that even makes it more likely its the cluster. I had an H22 accord that ran like ****, vtec wouldn't work and the rev limiter was at like 4,800 until I swap clusters. It was like a brand new car....

Maugutus

*Update*
Ordered the cluster.
In the meantime I thoroughly cleaned the EGR ports on the intake manifold, the EGR valve itself and replaced the vacuum lines. I also checked and cleaned the fuel pressure regulator. The car ran much, much smoother.

I also replaced the O2 sensor, a nice increase in power and feel, but still rev limited to 5k - 5.2k, or so the cluster says.

MySelfAffliction

Yea i had given up on this since I didn't care enough lol. I just drive the car to and from work that's it. I have another car for my weekend warrior so I don't need this one to rev higher but I am very curious if you do figure it out please let me know and i'll go ahead and fix the issue on mine. Thanks!

holmesnmanny

Check your ignition timing. It could be so far off that it's not able to advance timing enough to get past 5000. Only other thing it could be is ecu.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

I have exactly the same problem on my 94 EX F22B1. It "seems" that the revs are limited to 5200. Only thing is that when on the highway, the tach is much too slow for the speed of the car. This is something that I wouldn't notice driving around town, but at 75 mph on the Interstate the tach says 2400 instead of around 3000 like it should. I know the speedometer is correct because it matches the speed on my Garmin to the mph. And when I have driven at night for a while, the tach seems to "gain" rpms and becomes correct. The problem has to be electrical, but I have not yet started throwing money at it. I just shift at 5000, which is really 6000. I do have a different cluster but have not put it in yet. Guess I should.

Turbodude06

It's your cluster, most people don't know it but this is a VERY common problem with I know the 94-95 accords cause I've owned so many maybe others too!

MySelfAffliction

So the cluster is just slow on the rpms?

Maugutus

*Update*
Changed the throttle body, including MAP sensor and TPS sensor.
Still the same problem, car continues to improve in responsiveness, but will not go past 5k.

Every sensor in the car is now new, and correctly calibrated.
That leaves the timing (which seems to be correct), the computer, or possibly the catalytic converter (may be clogged.)

Also my tachometer says about 2100 RPM's @ 60MPH and 3100 RPM's at 80 MPH. I have P195 50 R15 tires, stock are P195 60 R15.
The revolutions and vehicle speed seem to match up, but even if they didn't the difference at redline would be 6-7%, maybe a few hundred RPM's off. Redline is between 6200 and 6500, it shouldn't be so off that it reads 5000-5200.

Will continue to update until the problem is fixed, hope these posts help someone!

eirigance

I had this same issue & after a month, or so & about $450 I found out my "Harmonic Balancer" had broke in half & was slipping. I highly recommend you check that first. just push on the pully & see if it goes left to right, instead of around.


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