maxogsr

The car is totally stock. It's my wife's car.

When the car is hot and were not touching the gas, the idle cuts once in a while... It cut 1-2 or 3 consecutive time for about half a second each time then can be ok for 20-60 second then start again...Sometime it get a bit crazy and wont stop doing it for 10 sec then be ok again for 30 sec...The car never shut down because of that. We feel it mostly at the traffic light. It's really annoying and I'm just concern that one day, something could happen... And with young kids I'd like to avoid probs, especially with winter's comming.

It's like that for about 2 years (was my mom's car) and never really get worst unless I put on more accessory. The worst it can get it's with a/c on... Then you can feel it more often and worst...

The CEL is on for years now but it's P1457 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Leakage (EVAP Canister System) and I have been told that there should'n be any relation with the prob...

What I did/check to this day:

battery/cable/pole/grounds
clean tb
cap/rotor/plugs
the wires aren't old (ngk)

thanks for any imput in advance!

motegicivic

When is the last time you did a tune up? cap, rotor, and plugs? What kind of plugs are you running?

At least pull a plug and take a look at it.


I would try this.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-clean%2A%2A%2A-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913/

maxogsr

euhhh... read back the post please....

motegicivic

AND.....you didn't mention you did what I posted in the link.

maxogsr

I can't do it cause FYI there' NO iacv in 99 on automatic

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/index....FOLD%20%282%29

Former User

That's wrong. For an automatic, the IACV is attached to the bottom of the throttle body:

Former User

Does the idle speed spike high and low (fluctuate), or just drop too low?

First, bleed the cooling system, which may take 20-30 minutes.

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push/turn the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat. Fan need not be on.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below




Second, check whether the condenser fan runs when the A/C is turned on.

Third, have the alternator tested.

The problem with not fixing a problem that causes the CEL to remain on is that you never know when a new CEL code is thrown. Jump the service connector to retrieve all CEL codes that are thrown. Then reset the ECU to clear the codes and see which codes repeat. Post those codes.

P1457 - check whether the rubber seal on the gas cap is bad and not sealing the gas tank.

maxogsr

The idle spike low only for fraction of second........t....t...tt.....t..................t ....tt.......t......t............................. .tt......... about like that and only when not touching the gas like at the traffic light or on park. It's not fluctuating, just some little drop of about 1/2/300 rpm... But you can defenitly feel it...If I apply gas even just a little, it's ok. I've own about 8 civics in my life... first time I have that kind of prob...

Tb has been fully taken apart and kleen...

I alwready change the gas cap...

The a/c fan have been checked...

Why do you want me to bleed the cooling system? What would be the relation in between the idle prob and the heating system? I changed the rad earlier this Spring but the car was in a garage and flat... What would the car park in a slope would change?

I do check code on a regular basis, I have an Obd2 reader...

Former User

Signals input from the 2-wire coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) under the distributor to the ECU are one of the most important factors of idle speed control. Air trapped in the cooling system can discombobulate the ECT sensor and thereby provide false temp information to the ECU. Do a thorough bleed of the cooling system. Having the front end of the car higher than the rear aids removal of air from the cooling system.

Also have the alternator tested.

If the problem persists, you should also test the TPS on the throttle body. There are other items, but start there.

-------------

P1457 is possibly related:

97G_TechLX

have u thought of checking your distributor? Check the rotor cap and the rotor button on the distributor may need to replace, about $20-30 for that. Then clean your IAVC on the back of the throttle body with some carb or brake parts cleaner. I'd clear the cel code drive it awhile if the light comes back on scan it an see if its the same code.

maxogsr

ok, I'll do this this next week, I'll be busy this weekend so I'll give you news next week... Thanks!

motegicivic

Ron in order to get to the IACV do you remove the throttle body?

Former User

I can remove the IACV from my automatic D16Y8 without removing the TB. Now the IACV on my manual D16Y7 is a different story.

motegicivic

I assume to 96 is the same, I was looking for my IACV on my auto, how can you get to it?

Former User

Just remove the 4 bolts and then disconnect the coolant hoses.

motegicivic

I see that, just can you get to it from the top, when I looked seemed hard to get to the bottom of it?

Former User

It's a little tricky, but you can access all 4 bolts from above.