uncl3j0n

So I recently bought a 93 lx sedan off a friend who thought it needed a head gasket and clutch. Turns out the clutch pedal just needed to be bled and the cooling fan wasnt working since the fuse was blown.

The car moves fine now but still overheats. Fuse and relay are fine. I jumped each fan and only the cooling fan spun, not the condenser fan. I jumped the thermoswitch with the car on and nothing happened. I turned on the ac and still none of the fans turned on.

I know im going to need a new condensor fan but what could be the cause of the other fan not working? Could this be caused by a bad thermostat or is it a wiring issue? Also I recently changed all the fluids and flushed the radiator. Thanks

76 camaro car

I've had my engine cooling fan wired to my power windows fuse and grounded at the battery for years now becouse I was having a simular problem. My fan stays on with the ign. switch off until I open my door but my car runs cool now. I know this is by no means a fix but it does work. Try running some jumper wires to the fan motor to see if the motor is any good. If the fan still will not come on this way your fan motor needs replaced.

geek504

Did you do the:
battery voltage test and the continuity test for both fans at the fan relays?

poorman212

Which thermo switch did you jump...uppper or lower hose?

Does the ac work, guess not since the fans don't come on....so back to the first question.

justinsbg

Have you checked your "fan timer unit"? When all the correct inputs have been received the "radiator fan control module" grounds both the fan relays. Usually on these cars the ground circuit in the control module fails. It is repairable for those with good eyes and decent soldering skills. If you open the unit up you'll see several cracking solder joints throughout the pc board. I forget how much a new one from Honda is, but don't get a used one, you'll be wasting your money. Like I said, it's a very common problem on these cars so the used one you buy will probably be in worse shape than yours. Let me know what you find. I can give you detailed ways to check the unit, but best thing to do is just open it up and look at the solder joints with a magnifying glass. Hope this helps.

poorman212

justinsbg...the fan timer sends the ground? I always thought that came from the thermo switches (A and B).

At least that is the way I read the wire diagrams

justinsbg

That diagram isn't exactly showing everything. Power for the radiator fan relay and condensor fan relay is supplied by the fan control module (FCM). At the FCM the yellow wire is power for the radiator fan, and Yellow/White wire is power for condensor fan. The Coolant temp sensor A closes at a temperature above 194 degrees and will provide a path to ground for the pull in windings of the radiator fan relay to energize it and send power to the radiator fan motor. Coolant temp sensor B closes at a temp above 226 degrees and provides a path to ground for the reference voltage sent by the fan control unit, which then signals the fan control unit to ground the fan relay on the Blue wire at FCM. There are multiple ways that the fan relays get energized by the FCM via the Blue wire. I could spend a while describing, but for these symptoms this is what you need to know. Hope this helps. Again, check that Fan Control module for solder cracking and let me know what you see. If you would like some help diagnosing the Module electronically let me know.