Vtec Problems
#51
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Re: Vtec Problems
yes, you should have bled the master cyl, each individual break is not necessary, but would be if the pedal was still squishy AFTER bleeding the master.
Source: I've done it myself.
Source: I've done it myself.
#52
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Re: Vtec Problems
Opened up the po6 ecu today and took a look, went though the whole chipping platform, looks good everything is esactly where it should be
#54
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Re: Vtec Problems
I bled the master and the problem is still there, it doesnt seem to be the master cylider, just when i press on the brakes the abs unit makes a squshy noise, almost sounds like fluid or air getting by some sort of seal, could this be it?
#55
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Re: Vtec Problems
first bleed as normal one wheel at a time.
when done get car over 25MPH and slam on brakes to make the car use the abs pump.
re bleed brakes
do this till air nolonger comes out of the bleeders.
also look for and fluid leaks on brake hoses and calipers if you have rear drum (don't think i have ever seen a Drumed teg) pull the rubber seal from the side of the wheel cylender and see if there is fluid there if there is replace BOTH wheel cylenders
this should help you fix your brakes.
#56
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Re: Vtec Problems
Thanks, is this how u bleed 98-01 integra abs? becuase i have no extra brake resviors in my car, so im guessing its the 98-01 abs system.
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Re: Vtec Problems
Well i removed the abs unit, and i found what seems to be like a 40/40 prop valve off of a 99 civic ex, and used that instead of my abs. Front wheels only lock up on braking, rear wheels brake like 70% and never lock. guessing this is becuase the valve was off of a car with rear drum brakes. this will work till i get a 40/40 prop vavle and remove the abs completely, does this seem ok?
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Re: Vtec Problems
You my friend scare me.
I'm not sure if it's the disregard for your own safety or the apparent disregard for the lives of others you could end up killing.
any way i think what your looking for is a 70/30 Prop valve as as you should be braking more on the front then rear.
also did you get the lines crossed on the valve you have?
and did you reset the valve?
prop valves have a dual function. if your braking and lets say the line on one of the front brakes burts the prop vale will shift and cut off the flow of fluid to the front lines allowing you to still have Some brakes with the rear. or vise versa
and if the valve you have is set to a rear brake leak you will have to reset the valve but force.
get a buddy to pump the brakes till there firm then have him hold pressure on them then open a bleeder on the front this will send the valve to the front and reset the valve then bleed the brakes as normal.
and it takes more force to stop with drums the disks so you may have the fronts o the prop valve rear wheel ports on your front brakes.
I'm not sure if it's the disregard for your own safety or the apparent disregard for the lives of others you could end up killing.
any way i think what your looking for is a 70/30 Prop valve as as you should be braking more on the front then rear.
also did you get the lines crossed on the valve you have?
and did you reset the valve?
prop valves have a dual function. if your braking and lets say the line on one of the front brakes burts the prop vale will shift and cut off the flow of fluid to the front lines allowing you to still have Some brakes with the rear. or vise versa
and if the valve you have is set to a rear brake leak you will have to reset the valve but force.
get a buddy to pump the brakes till there firm then have him hold pressure on them then open a bleeder on the front this will send the valve to the front and reset the valve then bleed the brakes as normal.
and it takes more force to stop with drums the disks so you may have the fronts o the prop valve rear wheel ports on your front brakes.
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