N/A

I know you were clear in saying its not safe, its still crazy.

I don't know what you mean about "everywhere" but a couple quick squirts from a small can of brake clean is way safer than having a can of propane around any day.
And brake clean dissipates just as if not quicker.

Robinjo

One thing I notices no one mentionede was the O2 sensor. While the engine warms up it bypasses it, but once warm uses the sensor to adjust air/fuel. It would also explain the exhaust to rich cel.

I had a truck that would die when coming to a stop and the O2 sensor was the culprit.

N/A

Never seen a o2 do that to a honda unless it was creating a short circuit, which in that case he would have more problems than explained

Targa250R

This is true - I've seen many cars stall and/or run a low idle when coming to a stop while throwing an oxygen sensor code or an oxygen sensor heater circuit code.

The original poster didn't mention an O2 sensor code though, and an OBD-2 system will usually pick up on a problem like that.

Bowl_of_Rice

i have a brand new ntk o2 sensor so it cant be that

fcluddington

Have u checked base timing. And really if you had a vaccum leak it would increase rpm not decrease it. what exactly is your rpm at idle. does it increase when you turn a/c on. What do your spark plugs look like pull all 4. it could be possible that it is just set to low.

Bowl_of_Rice

my timing is on, i dont have ac so it idk about that and my spark plugs are fine

el crapitan

let's say you're just sitting at a flat surface, brakes unapplied. when you apply the brakes, the engine stalls? is that correct?
if so, check your engines base vacuum. when you apply the brakes, the booster pulls vacuum from the engine. if vacuum is inadequate, the engine will stall. low vacuum can be a sign of a tired engine. either that or your idle is incorrectly adjusted.
try installing a vacuum gauge where the vacuum line to the brake booster goes into the manifold. see whether or not it's within spec.

vtek9

Had the exactly problem where I would be at a stop light and the car completely shuts off. Try to crank it back up doesnt work, wait couple minutes and it starts up. Funny thing is I did a oil change and it never happen again. Dont know why.

grick

i had that problem where it shut off on me at stop n go lights, etc and it didnt want to restart for a couple of minutes, and the problem ended up being my main fuse. i replaced the main fuse and it never happened again since

Bowl_of_Rice

wheres the main fuse?

do you mean the main relay

Bowl_of_Rice

the car stalls as im coming to a stop sometimes i wont even know the car stalled

grick

yah that would be it the main realay fuse, i took it down to the shop and they found out that was the problem never had problem since never know it was a cheaper item also

N/A

Just bring the car to a damn mechanic u obviously don't know what u doing

We are all wasting out time with this

Bowl_of_Rice

im gonna see if i can find anyone that i can borrow ecus from if its not my ecu im just gonna change my main relay

Bowl_of_Rice

lol then when are you in here if you think your wasting your time with this, obviously other people are trying to help and all you did was argue with someone on my thread and not help me at all.

el crapitan

not gonna be your main relay. you're getting fuel/spark.
doubt it's the ecu either. you've got to get out of the mentality of just changing parts blindly. you've already spent a tonne of money going that route.
get yourself a vacuum gauge and check base engine vacuum. you can find them for like 5$.
a clogged pcv will also cause low vacuum.
by pulling the iacv connector and it stalling immediately afterward, this indicates one of 2 things. either inadequate vacuum or idle adjusted too low. that's all. it's not electrical. it's completely mechanical. either way, you're basically not getting enough air into the cylinders. this is why you got misfire codes as well.
check your base vacuum.
what rpm does the car idle at normally?
does it idle erratically at all?

el crapitan

just checked your list. pcv valve wasn't there.
i'd still suggest you grab a vacuum gauge. pick it up when you grab the pcv valve. it's a very basic tool and a great indicator of the condition of the engine and components
check your base vacuum, then check your pcv valve

vtec_Nfectd_db8

sounds like your Ignition control Module. its inside your distirbutor and they get real hot and start messing up over time. even its bad it will somtimes allow your car to run then all of the sudden stop and be very annoying because you cant get your car to start again till it cools down.

el crapitan

^^those aren't the symptoms he's having

Bowl_of_Rice

ill get one of those gauges tomorrow and see whats up
and my rpm is at 900 and then sometimes its at 650 then sometimes at 750

fcluddington

You need to increase rpm. go ahead and raise it 200rpm and see if that keeps car from stalling when brake is applied. You can also increase the timing a degree or two. These can be done in less than 10min. btw if your gonna do the timing also do it first it will raise rpm then adjust the TB idle.

emg1588

does your idle fluctuate when you pump the brakes?... try stopping with the emergency brake and see if your car still shuts off... keep eliminating things until you find the problem...

el crapitan

idle is supposed to fluctuate when you pump the brakes. it's normal.
so op, you say the idle goes from 900 to 750 to 650? so would you say the idle is erratic? like without touching the brakes? if so, you've probably got a vacuum leak. either way, this certainly sounds like a vacuum issue

Bowl_of_Rice

wheres a good spot to check for a vacuum leak

and a good legit way to check for one since people are gonna argue about it on my thread lol